Marc

Good price for a set of Arboriculturuallalalaly spikey wikes. He is even honest about the shonky forging as they are end of line clearance you could find the end of your line to if the past few pages are anything to go by. We all like a bargin, if I could find a set of Genuine Bashlins, Bucks or Geckos at close to those prices i'd be happy. But for piece of mind i'd rather pay £300 for a brand new pair of genuine spikes, sure £300 is a lot of folding but like has been mentioned here already they are not exactly high volume mass consumer products. And lets face it a good set of spike should last the average climber near on 10years so that works out at £30 a year. I can understand it, hell i'm the same what with the rising costs of living we all look to save a bit here and there.

I thought your comments were very wise and bob on, I do not doubt the RW is a good bit of kit that is allowing users to take on work in a different way and look forward to trying one sometime.

:lol: With Populars just put your spikes on you can also use spikes on willows.

I have no confidence in Stein cubes seem a false economy to me if you intend to throwline a lot. I have 2 cubes will probably get another 2 by the end of this year and maybe a Howie, howies are where its at! They hold upto 5 i think faltheimer cubes flat so help to keep tangles to a minimum. All the gear and no idea, i've also got a beach rolly so usefull!

Seen these in Germany doing roadside trees, bigger than this one with fully hydraulic head for ultimate control, for motorway work they look very effective.

I throw by hand with zing-it and 8oz bags, i also now have grey hair.

ISC micro pulley for price to effectiveness ratio. Petzl micro grabs are hard to release under load.

one rope, one harness, one lanyard with 2 karabiners, cambium saver, some prussik cord and another 2 karabiners for you climbing system/spare. This is all you'll need. Maybe a hitch climber pulley or micro pulley. You need to learn the basics first figure out how you like to climb get reasonably good at it then start to invest in ascendors and other bling. As all these gadgets and techniques are only as good as the climber who uses them. I've worked with amazing work a day climbers who still use a willans and climb on both ends of their rope with prussik. I've also worked with guys who have the entire ART collection who I refuse to have any where near me.

just me pulling your chain, and it can allow freefall for in-experienced climbers as there is no anti-panic function unlike most rope access tools, i know this for a fact as I work with a guy who got kicked out of a college after he free fell on a lockjack in panic descent. This does not mean it is a dangerous tool!

Yep, this is my point i like my hitch to free up easily, this does mean with easy movements it can slip or fail to grab instantly, but I doubt it would allow you to hurtle to the ground, at the same time i'm not going to test this theory out. Sweet jesus you guys climb on Lockjacks thats just shady!

I have to sometimes assist my hitch to bite the rope and do not see a problem with it, I can point flaws in most things, like the lack of anti-panic on ART, or the way you could wrap the rope around am original unicender for controlled descent and it fail to stop when you let go etc etc. Climbing is inherently dangerous only climb with a hitch that does not reliably grab if you comfortable and competent to do this, untill then tune it so it does grab. For the record I like my knot loose so its easy to advance, yes it will not always grab in fine adjustments or just after advancing but I highly doubt it would lead to freefall!

SRT is quite simple and makes using a throwline easier as you do not need to isolate a branch. The idea is simple get an SRT line in, use this to get into the tree quickly and as near to the top anchor as possible, ascend then climb the last extra bit where there are far more banchesmeaning less need to body thrust, then install your cambium saver and work the tree with your normal set-up, then if you need to take a break its not big deal as you can just SRT back up again in no time.

Lister Wilders near me are selling them for £399 all in cheaper than the 200t's at £415

What were you doing to my kit bag?

That was the biggest conifer I had ever seen.

The idea is to keep your arm locked straight whilst tending slack, also good positioning with your feet will reduce how much weight you need to hold anyway, and pantins will also help for short ascents close to trunk. The spiderjack is also a very good tool just different, which one is best depends on you, for me I find climbing with a HC easy. To original poster i'd buy the parts seperatly to save money, also look to the Petzl OK over the DMM ovals they are a much more reliable biner.

Intresting yet simple soloution.

We sometimes have to climb above our anchors to achieve the job spec, thats just part of this job, is it unsafe, well that depends on how you do it.

Really nice work MattyF

I'll get Marcus from the vid to send you a sawpod sticker as consolation for trying but not liking the sawpod. He is a good egg that lad he does climb on a spiderjack but I do not hold this against him. The sawpod will not be for everyone, i think its one of those things you get on better with if you start out climbing with one like I did.

Yeah Joe's spiderjackery was so well done it must of sold at least one spiderjack, i'm sure if you can do a nice Ropewrenchry vid maybe 2 people will go out and buy one.

A sawpod is like Marmite you either love it or hate it. I started out with one and cannot climb without it, being that easily half my climbing work is silky reductions its a heavily used bit of kit, i've never cut through a strap, never had the saw come out on me by accident either (well no more than those that have it on the harness) never caught my trousers. I think if your used to a scabbard on the harness getting used to a sawpod could take some time as your whole climbing movement is programmed around you knowing its there and now its in an alien place and will get in the way interfer with your work untill you forget about it even being there. If I do not have my saw pod I struggle with having my silky on my harness it constantly gets in the way getting stuck in forks or on branches, I am forever trying to find the scabbard to put it back, my chainsaw strop gets caught up in it etc etc. So you either love it or hate it its not for everyone.

What would be nice is to see a convincing video of someone using the SRT work positioning well like Joe and spiderjackery.

In either SRT or D'dRT I strongly believe you want to avoid relying solely on upper body strength to thrust or hand over hand, you need to kind of use your body to lever using your hands to balance and take in slack not pull yourself up. It seems SRT forces you to do this and make changes to your climbing. Still I like the benefit of being able to call upon 2:1 i can also see why srt has appeal.

Its a really nice rope i'll be getting some, although probably only a 37m as you do notice its weight prefering something like imori over 40m. Its a shame that it gives to much friction in a RW like you say as the line I tried had very little stretch in fact much less than some of my SRT lines, probably would of made a nice srt work line, but what do I know i'm still in the dark ages.