Marc

I took mine off I find it pointless, and I had accidentally clipped my saw there once not a good idea!! Besides its to far around to be of much use as tool attachment point and there are so many points to customise your own tool loops.

YouTube video,s are already up for public scrutiny, me taking pictures of someone else,s bad work is different.

Were you not the original sinner that got ekka all on his high horse all them years ago now?

Where is me pitch fork! I think gene,s have something to do with we are all different and some of us maybe able to cope for longer. The best climber I work with is old we call him great uncle Q (or the head) he is so old he remembers Jesus. He will out climb me any day works 6 days a week including 10-12 hour shifts without breaking a sweat it's just not hard for him I actually think he lacks sweat glands. He is looking slower in his old age but then you look back and realise he,s done half the tree already and I,m still installing my cambium saver. Slow is truly fast, those that beast themselves can potentially work themselves into an early retirement before they are actually any good. Then there is beddes isn,t he in his 40,s 7 time climbing champ and apparently a total machine not worked with him personally but know those that do. Me I,m 33 reckon I still got 10 years left (i may be a half decent climber to by then) but at my rate shouldn,t be hard.

Did you look at google street view?

Ops stupid predictive text was supposed to say work, as in I,ve done my fair share of bad work and will do again in future it's inevitable, I know it's bad it's just the nature of the job you cannot always do the right thing. Anyway I,ll get my coat.

Agreed we cannot compete with low end work like that and the tight pricing they put on it. It just de values the effort we go to. Beside just think about the extra volume of timber they would of had to deal with. And I reckon we could compete and do the same job for the same money we just would not do it as its not the sort of thing we are interested in. But! We have done this type of wJustin's wil do again, just I can see no justification here.

And probably offers the same amount of cut protection, if I was to wear type c,s in the tree it would still be hi flex, used to get 9 to 12 months it I was lucky

Those trees will now always be an eyesore, think of the winter architecture and all that jazz, it has ruined what was a nice avenue. I doubt in a season these will become nice trees again. And tickling populars is my speciality and even after 4 seasons they are still under control and need a few more seasons before a re prune maintaining a 5-8 pruning cycle, these populars have retained there character and form and still an asset to the environment they are in.

I wouldn't over thin it or thin it at all, it will have little effect on light levels and may cause to much adventitious regrowth creating even more shade. A lift will have a greater effect on ambient light and as the pruning wounds will be shaded the regrowth should be minimum, coupled with a very light thin should give a better result.

I understand where your coming from, but unfortunately I do not think this is now best modern practice, there is a time and place for harsh works but this did not look like one, a much more aesthetic job could of been done to achieve same result but create a better future frame work to prune to and retain important canopy cover. It's bad work plain and simple. And why is it daft to reduce populars like oaks? Just because pops responds well to a thrashing does not mean its the best thing to do

What model is it? We run bc1000 10" bc1400 15" and bc2000 23" all are very solid chippers. The bc1000 is the simplest but it's single feed roller can struggle. The bc1400 is awesome bit of kit but the smart feed does not work right and never has. Bc2000 is a ridiculous hand feed chipper! All are towed behind a mog, only one of our mogs run a pto and that's jenson 10" also a nice chipper but if I could I,d prefer a road tow.

I never noticed it getting in the way the few times I,ve used it, but I am a dinosaur technique user preferring this for work positioning over srt which I am no stranger to just always found it cumbersome and awkward for fine positioning work and find other srt techniques easier/more effcient to use for access and limited work positioning.

Armor prus is good cord, I got a couple of months out of it, but it just binds to tight for me and lays to flat i like somethng chunky to grab:sneaky2: I actually forgot they now do it in 10mm reckon I,m going to have to give that a go now I,m down to my last 2 hitches. I also have 2 ropes with there own hitches which I cycle between depending on my mood. Paul maybe it's not grabbing because it's not bedded in properly like has already been said. Usually I tie the cord then the wraps kinda bed in and get a memory usually takes one good climb then I usually have to retie the fishermans to as they will creep. The o rig is a neat trick but climb without it to bed the cord in, this way you can make sure it is grabbing reliably. I think I sometimes grab my cord to make sure it bites, it's just one of those things I do instinctively in some situation without thinking about it.

Horses for courses, generally thinner diameter cords grab better yet can get hotter and over-tighten. I actually have gone off OP a bit since they changed it, it's more supple now and doesn't seem to last as long, I preferred it when it was firmer and more wire like. I find armour prus and beeline just to soft and grabby. I use 10mm o.p on 12mm line it's the best I can find for how I like my knot, if anyone else knows of a stiff long lasting 10mm line let me know, I,ll generally get 3 weeks from a cord. All I can suggest to you Paul is keep experimenting as no one here can tell you what's best.

Black pops are not the easiest of trees to reduce, Here is one i did 5 years ago the bit in the top middle was our anchor point, the regrowth has been minimal probably one of the hardest trees i,ve had to reduce, would of been much easier to just tonk it. Sorry to hijack yr thread

I don,t see a problem if you fully understand what will happen, a toothed ascendor on static lines will strip the outer in a fall and is designed to do this at around 4kn I think, but what would happen on arb lines? I,ve heard some toothed ascendors will blow out if they go to far above 4kn without stripping the outer. Cammed ascendors will/can cut the line. But what about a fall onto a single dyneema line with a cord like a.p? I think it would be uncomfortable and probably both parts will need retiring. For me it's about knowing the consequences of how kit will interact with each other, it's well known we use kit in a way that it is not intended, doesn't make it wrong it's just an unknown factor.

Yeah pretty much what I do anyway, not even sure why I got involved as I do not use a RW as i,m still in the dark ages, just feels to me a bad idea to use static lines with a friction hitch and rope wrench but I could be wrong.

Yeah I know what you mean, that truffle burger (ha gotta love predictive text) stuff is scarily static I actually find it uncomfortable to use, it's also pricey and not something I,d like to use day in day out as a work line. You every tried sterling htp also know as snakebite, it's cheaper and has just a tiny amount of stretch, not sure I,d be happy using rope of that construction still for srt work on a hitch especially on fast descents.

Your obviously using real static line then, as most static line for work have similar stretch to arb lines, I have mammut super static there is nothing static about it bouncier than a bouncy thing, Sterling htp is my preferred choice it is very static but with just enough give to cushion minor slips. I know the likelihood of having a fall severe enough to cause problems is not likely to happen, do we know though what will on true static lines with a hitch and rw? As mechanical jammers will strip the outer and are designed to do this. Maybe try to get hold of American yale poison ivy that is pretty static, not sure if it has changed though.

I know still looks odd. Ok you may loose a seat with a rhd mog, but if it's as tidy and together as it looks it's a small price to pay.

The gear lever looks badly bent other than nice rig Chris.

Have you tried using so,thing like blaze or velocity? I would not like work positioning on access type lines they have a thin outer which is not as resiliant to abrasion and heat compared to work positioning lines commonly used in tree work. I,ve only seen/used a RW on arborist lines leaving my access lines for jammers and mechanical devices only.