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Alpine tractor talk


the village idiot
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The tyre man we use always says 3 cleats on the ground is a good rule of thumb provided there is not excessive side wall rippling. (150-200 hp machines) , probably means there will be very low psi considering the weight of your alpine and flail combo

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Low tyre pressures do increase flotation and really do help with self cleaning. Low pressure and high speeds can overheat the tyre, worth looking up what the manufacturer states the rolling radius should be. Low pressure and heavy pulling has been known to spin the tyre on the rim (quickly wrecks the beads), correct fitting lubricants such as Michelin agrilube do help glue the tyre in place. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is my Antonio Carrero Tigre 3200

 

Running the wider wheels as quite a lot of my land is boggy but have still managed to get it stuck a couple of times - hence the winch on the front! Only 26hp but quite happily runs the attached PTO chipper. Its been on 25 degree slopes sideways without issue though the driver was papping it.

 

Only downside is that I can't run wheel weights on those wheels, so need to get my fabricator to run up a caddy for some nose ones, otherwise it can be a bit light at the front (with said chipper or a full tank for the sprayer for instance).

IMG_5031.JPG

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A senior bloke from Michelin/Telleborg, (and Steve English if I recall correctly) once advised that for maximum field traction and flotation, against the various other variables, simply deflate until the sidewalls just/only just started to crinkle/crumple under load/maximum load.

Road use needs a sniff more, but the application of uncommon sense should go a long way.

P.S.

I recently tried to establish the correct or optimium tyre pressures for a new set of MB standard profile BF Goodrich's on the Steyr Puch Van, but to no definitive avail, it all depends on surface conditions, loading/towing and speeds.

So suck it an see!

mth

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