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difflock

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Everything posted by difflock

  1. I gathered up the leafmould from below the Hawthorn hedge I planted some years ago, what pleasently surprised me was how weed free it was, beneath the canopy, and how unbeliavebly friable the topsoil was beneath it. I used it to mulch the two planted out C.I. baths in the front porch area. 1 Ameralis about to flower with more coming. The humidity in the 2 story high space is astounding btw, and mostly all coming from transpiration(I can only presume). BUT if I were considering raised beds for veg outside, I would be using the leafmould bigtime.
  2. difflock

    Topical

    That is funny. the subject matter may not be, but it is funny. And whilst I am not a fan of Royalty per. se. I am definately not anti Royal, and I had a lot of respect for Queen Elizabeth, I also rate Queen Camilla btw.
  3. Tescos own corned beef,( 4 slices in a sealed pack), wifes proper breadmaker bread, butter, sliced tomato, salt and pepper. Like a floury spud, it never palls or gets boring.
  4. But, as I mentioned/queried, the eaves to ridge ventilation should make a breathable membrane unecessary, surely? Hazarding a guess, pure belt an braces? cheers
  5. No soffit or ridge vents. N. I. may have had different bld regs to the rest of the U.K. Cos Bld Control did not highlight this lack, though they did mention other stuff, like wrong way round double glazing units. Which, needless to say, are still exactly as they were. Since we live downstairs, I would have imagined the likelihood of significant moisture migrating the length of the roof space was low? With somewhat poor fitting/ leaky windows throughout the house. However, to double back on myself Fred, were you suggesting that IF moisture from the living area permeates to the roof space, that the existing non permeable bituminous felt is unsuitable for a warm roof(if that is what it is called) which properly needs the breathable Tyvek type membrane? But, surely, the provision of the correct amount of eaves to ridge ventilation negates the need for breathable "felt"? Cheers, Mth
  6. Looking to make the house somewhat easier heated, which will indeed make the roof space warmer. If I add the insulation to the rafters instead of the roofspace floor. Which I don't want to do. We live downstairs, the upstairs is empty, but heat rises and I reckon the extra insulation can only help overall.
  7. I know years ago "AddF" was the formic acid sold as a silage preservative. It had a lovely red hue, just like rebated diesel. It also helpfully came in 20litre plastic jars. The number of farmers, or their children or employees that proper fornicated up the tractors I.P. was unbelievable, cos, hey the diesel was generally carted to the tractors in similar jars. And in the hubble and pressure of silage making, mistakes were made. Like by my own younger brother! So if one was to happen to leave a couple of jars of such contaminated fuel sitting about, obviously for future, you know like to be done tomorrow, proper disposal . . .
  8. Hmmm, def no ridge vents, nor indeed soffit vents, so thanks for that "heads up" guys. Presumably no need, since the roof was uninsulated, and the air circulation within the roofspace void sufficied(it IS proper airy up there!) But there is a quare draught comes in through the gaps in the overlapped felt, so perhaps little need of furthur ventilation, but better safe than sorry I suppose. More work, sigh.
  9. Botty, I did state that I would fit the 70mm deep PIR between the 120mm deep rafters, therby leaving the requisite 50mm airflow gap beneath the roofing felt. Yes? I will knowingly "risk" the minimal additional weight of the insulation, knowing the general overdesign and factors of safety involved in building regs. To our knowledge or intention this dwelling will not be sold, well in our lifetime. After that?? Cheers, Marcus.
  10. The proper stairs would complicate that floor raising somewhat, plus anyway the cold draught would simply roll down the stairs into the rest of the house, though there is an internal panel door between the bottom of the stairs and the landing proper, hence my intention to insulate at the rafters.
  11. Gareth, A good question, and well presented, so it deserves an answer🙂 It is really only for storage, though I have a proper set of stairs to access it, and the space is fully "walk through". So glorified storage. Cheers mth
  12. About 175m2 to do, 120mm deep rafters at nominal 16" centres. Floor joist voids already glass fibre/hairy molly filled and flooring chipboard over throughout. I have legitimately acquired 1.1mm thick Lamilux which I intend to finish with internally. It is impervious, bright, reflective and wipeclean.(The spiders will not like it!) So PIR or XPS? Or are there affordable alternatives, like a bloke was saying sheeps wool insulation should now be cheap, since the fleece is worthless to the farmer(but its not, at the purchaser end, that I can see) or Sisalwool, which also appears to be expensive. Rafterlok PIR also appears to be too bloody dear, for what it is. Btw I dislike the thought of polystyrene, due to its potential flammability. I can fit 70mm between the rafters, but is it worth fitting another 50mm across the hill, to the underside of the rafters, before affixing my lamilux to finish.
  13. I longingly looked at and researched 8250 Kg GTW Iveco 5th wheel combos to max out trailer weights for us oldies with the grandfathered "blue" car licence entitlements. But could not get Council managers to bite. Too different. Sigh.
  14. But overrun brakes max out at 3500Kg, in so far as I know, and I also understand, that therefore over 3500Kg one needs air brakes, which sounds like an expensive additional cost to the towing vehicle(I doubt they were supplied c/w air brakes, as standard, and if so, at what cost?) plus the additional cost of the compatible air braked trailer.
  15. Like they are now going to be classed as cars with commensurate levels of emissions based car tax!
  16. Thank you for that link about Mike Burrows Stere. A fascinating bloke indeed.
  17. Let nature nature. It is not in an immutable fixed state. That is nature. It is always changing.
  18. I called in with Outdoor Life in Ballymoney yesterday evening. They have a couple of Giant Contend models on good offer, like £650ish. Which seems about the right amount of money for an old done man like me to spend on a bike. I will look at the gravel bike options as well though. I will go back in at my leisure on Friday.
  19. Thank you OG. The massive plethora of nomenclature and jargon is truly perplexing and bamboozling me. Started to get my head round some of it. . I have zero notion of being a speed merchant, but nor do I want a bike that is any heavier than it needs to be. On mostly flat terrain, up and down the Bann valley and round the Nth Antrim essentially. And would like mudguards and a minimalistic carrier for limited clag.
  20. I rida alone! (sounds like a bad Western dont it) I wear hi-leg Lowa combat boots, in the really bad cold snowy weather, Birkenstocks on bare feet in the good weather , and £23.00 trainers the rest of the time. A few pairs of cut down trousers do me for shorts, or some sort of thermal ungarment leggings in the cold. Or both. Full hi-Vis up top. NO LYCRA! So I dont imagine any self respecting cyclist would be seen near me. My tentitve searches seem to show a lot of cheap consumer tat at the bottom end, say £500.00 ish then a significent gap up to the £1500.00 and up market. And yes the choices and permutations are bewildering. Cheers all.
  21. I been riding an old bicycle of our son's, which was always somewhat too small for me. Being aware that the cycle market is currently in turmoil/bloodbath/freefall price wise. . . So I am in the notion of buying myself sommat more suitable. For recreational road use. Buy how do I size a bicycle, since I am aware that I have a slightly longer back/ shorter legs than the norm. Height, say 5' 9". I shall also ask my wife to measure my inside leg. . .

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