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Small saw long bar


Craigb
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All depends on the size of the logs i would think..

 

I cannot see what difference the engine will see just as a result of fitting a long bar as the chain will be moving at the same speed... There WILL be a small increase in friction due to added bar length, but that is all..

 

BUT, the rest of the saw will not be designed for the extra weight of the long bar or the extra leverage the thing will exert on the poor saw either. I would think [as others have said] it will be very front heavy too and not too much fun to sharpen either.

 

Not saying you could not do it, but it would not be ideal.

 

On the other hand, you could get a 70CC saw which would be great with the 24" bar but it will be a bit of an overkill powerwise if you are only cutting small diameter logs and heavy and clumpy compared to a smaller saw too..

 

If it were me, i think would try the longer bar and chain, as if it does not work out, then you have not lost much, but if you buy a bigger saw and think it is not too much fun to use for cutting firewood, then you have spent a lot more [and the thing will use a lot more fuel too]

 

john..

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22 hours ago, redmoosefaction said:

Don't forget skip chains for longer bars less drag, less sharpening.... Chainsawbars.co.uk

This only applies if you are burying the full length of the bar in the timber . As I understand it he will only be using the tip just to save bending over too much .

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1 hour ago, Stubby said:

This only applies if you are burying the full length of the bar in the timber . As I understand it he will only be using the tip just to save bending over too much .

If you're intending to use just the final third of a long bar.....then you may as well remove all the other teeth on your chain as they will obviously be redundant. This will reduce unneccesary drag and load.

Hope that help.

 

😁

 

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2 hours ago, Stubby said:

This only applies if you are burying the full length of the bar in the timber . As I understand it he will only be using the tip just to save bending over too much .

I only ever use "just the tip" saves bending over too much, fnah, fnah! 

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Since some of us have already entered Whimsical territory,  I have a solution that offers lightness, balance, small bar and long reach. The more astute among you will already know where I'm going, and if I'm honest it's not 100% serious. I've done it myself on occasion, and while it satisfies all criteria exactly, it's not the answer.

 

Kombi machine with chainsaw attachment. 😂

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3 minutes ago, Peter 1955 said:

Since some of us have already entered Whimsical territory,  I have a solution that offers lightness, balance, small bar and long reach. The more astute among you will already know where I'm going, and if I'm honest it's not 100% serious. I've done it myself on occasion, and while it satisfies all criteria exactly, it's not the answer.

 

Kombi machine with chainsaw attachment. 😂

 

It amuses me every time I see my neighbour out with the gypsy stick, standing well back from his sawhorse doing some logs

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When cutting stems on ground standing straight up with a long bar won't it be hard to avoid dirt with the chain as you cutting logs with bar tip is held at a 45 degree angle

 

I normally crouch down so bar is cutting more lvl with ground then flip logs over for that last bit.

 

But recall seeing yanks on youtube who use say 24" - 30" bars or whatever  ringing up pretty small diameter stems on the grounnd with the tip of long bar and not flipping logs but they  probably had a brash mat underneath.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Stere
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