john87

If it is on your property, you can do as you like with it. If it unbalances the rest of the tree, not your problem. Nothing the neighbour can do, if they want to waste their money trying, let them get on with it. TAKE LOTS OF PHOTOS FIRST. john..

Ok, now, as said, you can blow out the main jet all you like, it will get you nowhere.. Try it the way i do.. Take out the jet and thread through it a single strand taken from some electric flex. While holding either end of the strand taut, spin the jet round on the strand as you would a wheel on an axle. Now blow or wash it out and refit. That should do it. If not, you need to get a heater and try it on low and high and check that the governor is working. To be honest i would think that it is, as, every governor i have ever seen holds the throttle wide open until the governor closes it. If it was not working, i would think the motor would scream its bollocks off if you gave it full throttle.. john..

A person has a right to abate a nuisance. Just do what is needed. john..

All depends on the size of the logs i would think.. I cannot see what difference the engine will see just as a result of fitting a long bar as the chain will be moving at the same speed... There WILL be a small increase in friction due to added bar length, but that is all.. BUT, the rest of the saw will not be designed for the extra weight of the long bar or the extra leverage the thing will exert on the poor saw either. I would think [as others have said] it will be very front heavy too and not too much fun to sharpen either. Not saying you could not do it, but it would not be ideal. On the other hand, you could get a 70CC saw which would be great with the 24" bar but it will be a bit of an overkill powerwise if you are only cutting small diameter logs and heavy and clumpy compared to a smaller saw too.. If it were me, i think would try the longer bar and chain, as if it does not work out, then you have not lost much, but if you buy a bigger saw and think it is not too much fun to use for cutting firewood, then you have spent a lot more [and the thing will use a lot more fuel too] john..

Buy a good one. A timbercroc is what you need. Brilliant bit of kit.. john..

I do not think it is just the Ethanol though. There is a lot of other nasty stuff in it too.. john..

Yes, as you say, noise for a purpose, no problem at all. What really pisses me off is the twats that make a noise for the sake of it. I used to have to get up for work at 4am once, but the wanker next door would literally START parties at about 2am. What a shame when the drug squad raided their shop and they lost the house. oh dear oh dear... john..

Do you have to be a farmer or have a farm or anything though?? john..

Ok, i am no expert at this sort of thing as you all know, but could you not clove hitch the sling to the log?? Would not matter what sort of sling it was, endless or not. Might not be perfect, but it would be better.. john..

Take the plug out, Heat the end up until is is nearly red. Refit it as fast as you can and try to start it. This usually never fails. Give it a try.. john..

Yes, very true. When i was a kid in the 1960's if you went for a ride on a summers evening, or a long motorway ride, the front of the car and the windsceen would be absolutely covered with insects as you say.. Not seen that for decades.. Forgotten about it to be honest.. john

CE marking means nothing. In the world of machinery and electrical stuff, there is LOADS of stuff fraudulently marked. Read the link i give from the EU muppets.. Does not fill you with confidence.. As for climbing stuff, no idea, but i would stick to well known brands if it were me.. Not that i know anything about this sort of thing, but my choice of rope is stuff called "Marlow Gecko FCR" it seems good to me at least. CE marking SINGLE-MARKET-ECONOMY.EC.EUROPA.EU The letters ‘CE’ appear on many products traded on the extended Single Market in the European Economic Area (EEA). They signify that products... john..

I cannot see how the presence of a flue liner or not will make any difference whatsoever.. To fully burn "X" quantity of wood, will require "Y" quantity of air. This air can only go one place unless you want to gas yourselves and have a room full of smoke, and that is up the chimney.. Fully burning "X" quantity of wood will provide a set amount of heat determined by the calorific value of the wood. This heat has to go somewhere. What you going to gain by having an insulated flue lining?? All you will do, is instead of the heat being absorbed by the brickwork of your house as the flue gas travels upwards [making the brickwork all nice and toasty] the flue gas will be much hotter when it comes out of the top and you will merely be making the sky hotter.. As i said, mine is more an open fire with doors, but if i shut them, the flue temperature triples, and much less heat is emitted from the fire itself [but the brickwork gets lots hotter] Right above your stove you have a bend. I thought you were supposed to have a straight run of a good few feet before any bends?? john..

It is a LONG time since i was up to speed with electrical things, but i can tell you that fuses [like MCB's] come in different types according to their "characteristics" So, you can have two fuses of the same current rating, but they will be VERY different. One might be designed so that it is very fast acting and if sensitive to slight overloads [instead of letting them drag on for hours] and another might only be designed to be slow acting and will permit quite high short duration overloads and only really be sensitive to short circuit currents.. I too, would not be replaceing the fuse unless i was certain i was replacing like for like. Even then, as you very rightly say, the thing blew for a reason.. Fuses can blow due to age mind.. john..

Here you go!!! I found this!!! Amazing!!! It will even tell you when each vehicle wants a service!!

Yes, look up trackunit manager. I cannot find much info, they want to do you a demo. It will message me with alerts if the machine starts, moves does anything. How many hours each driver, when each started and stopped.. It is a complete fleet management tool. The subscription is £120 a year [i think] The thing was on the machine when i bought it. I just had to contact them to arrange the thing be transfered to me.. For what you want, it would be amazing.. [i only have one machine, so wasted on me!!] john..

This [see below] and one of them laser thermometers might help?? I have a woodburner that is more of an open fire with doors than the usual sort.. With the doors closed, hardly any heat comes out of the thing as judged by sitting in front of it, but the flue temperature is very high [300 to 400] and the body of the thing will be about 300 if not more. I have had bits of it dull red [before i knew better..] With the doors open, totally different. MUCH more heat emitted and the body of the thing [and the flue temperature] is only about 100.. The chimney is not lined, why on earth anyone would do this is beyond me [trying to make the sky hotter??] and so after a few hours all the brickwork right up through the house gets all toasty warm!! Anyway, a laser thermometer and this and some maths might help?? Stefan Boltzmann Law Calculator WWW.OMNICALCULATOR.COM Stefan Boltzmann law calculator uses the temperature and emissivity of a body to find the power radiated from it.

I have a Kubota excavator. It is fitted with a tracker, that also has a keypad where you enter a code to start the thing. You can have i think it is 50 different codes [for different drivers].. If you got these for your vehicles, you could easily see who was driving what and when. You would also be able to follow the vehicles on your pc and see where they had been too.. plus a LOAD of other things too.. This is what i would have.. john..

Registration of land that was subject to a registerable disposition such as a sale or mortgage, started in 1925. The land registry then put a stop to things as they could not keep up, and they brought in complusory registration at different dates throughout the country. Where i live it was 1980 so far as i can remember. Since about 1990 i believe it became compulsory across the entire country.. I cannot see how for practical purposes a builder could buy land and not register it, since then they would not have been able to register individual parts of the land to create the title needed to sell off each house, or at least it would be very difficult as they would have had to apply for first registration for every single bit, instead of merely having to fill in a form to transfer part of a registered title.. I know a proper smart arse idiot that did indeed buy some land [a small field]. Once the conveyancer wanted paying, they thought they would refuse to pay "and there is nothing they can do about it" Needless to say, Mr Conveyancer is not daft, and does not register the title until he has been paid.. Fast forward 30 years, and Mr clever tries to sell the land, only to find he does not own it!!! I helped them to try to sort the mess out.. They had bought the land at an auction where a large property had been sold off in bits to individual buyers. Even though i got them copies of the land certs for all the original land, AND the other sold off bits [which all made reference to "bit outlined in red sold to mr stupid"] AND they still had the paperwork from the auction place, the land registry would not accept any of this at all, and would only give them possessory title. They might as well have merely been squatters on their "own" land They managed to sell the land though, even though the buyers solicitor was not happy at all and rightfully advised his clients [horsey idiots] not to buy the land.. Now, it is indeed possible to do a search concerning unregistered land, only for some odd reason the land registry like to pretend that you cannot. It is a "K15" search. [This is the name of the form] I will give you two links, one for a bit of info and the other the form itself adn this explains more .. What are land charges department searches - Phew!Phew! PHEWCONVEYANCING.CO.UK In the case of unregistered land, a search is made at the Land Charges Department at Plymouth by submitting Form K15 after paying the... And here, the form.. /assets/static/govuk-opengraph-image-dade2dad5775023b0568381c4c074b86318194edb36d3d68df721eea7deeac4b.png Land Charges official search: application (K15) - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK Application form K15 for an official search of the Land Charges Registers john..

I use the husqvarna XP2, as it has jaso "FD" oil in it whereas the Stihl motomix stuff has the jaso "FB" in it from what i can work out. Stihl state their premix stuff has the stihl "HP Ultra" oil, which is jaso "FB" whereas the HP super [That you are using] is jaso "FD" as i expect you have worked out, soooo, you are correct, the "super" is the better oil.. The husqvarna stuff uses the husqvarna "XP" oil, which is jaso "D" which the makers of my machines specify, so that is what i use.. I am like you. The thing not wearing out is my prime consideration.. john..

The BEST oil to use, is whatever the makers tell you to use.. In the manual that came with the machine it will tell you EXACTLY what spec oil to use. Why would you want to do anything different?? john..

It does appear so!!! I cannot really post a piccy of said young lady without asking her, but if i did, you would all be rushing out to buy 24mm stein dead eye slings!!.. I was going to demonstrate to her how i could anchor one end [say to her office desk] and then do a clove hitch, say 6 feet apart to each leg!! But, i feared she would not be able to control herself!! john..

My Stein doodah thingy came with a 24mm dead eye sling with an MBS of 99kn i think it was. Even losing 20% this is way stronger that a Karabiner would be.. Interesting fact about the sling...It is a wonderously soft "slinky" lovely [in a sort of pervy way thing] Anyway, in work we have a Polish girl. Well, she is absolutely stunning.. Anyway, i showed her the sling and she had a feel of it and she went all kind of weird in a peculiar sort of way.. I kind of think some rather dirty thoughts were going through her pervy Polish mind!!! john..

Artic trailer will be more like 13.6 metres long. No chance of 20.. AWJFP - Vehicle Specifications WWW.AWJENKINSON.CO.UK john..

For anyone that does not use their machines much, why on earth would you want to mess about buying fuel, then adding oil, then adding stabiliser stuff [that may or may not work] when you can just buy a can of the alkylate stuff and tip it in?? Stihl say that petrol starts to mess up after 60 days even WITH their stuff in it.. For years, STIHL, as an outdoor power equipment manufacturer, has been battling the ongoing challenges that come with using today’s gasoline in our handheld outdoor power equipment. Gasoline contains hundreds of additives that can have adverse effects on our equipment. One of those additives is Ethanol, which poses the largest problem in our equipment and we needed to find a solution. That solution is called MotoMix® and Moto4Plus. It’s an alkylate fuel which has been formulated by STIHL to run specifically in our machines. What’s special about it is that it doesn’t contain any of the harmful additives that gasoline does since we are able to pick and choose what goes into it. The benefits are a five year shelf life for new unopened containers, and two years once the container has been opened. This means that these fuels are good for two years in the entire fuel system, including the carburetor, with no negative effects. Ethanol blended gasoline today starts a process called Phase Separation within thirty days of purchasing it and sixty days when using STIHL’s mix oil since it contains fuel stabilizer. The ethanol in the fuel is hygroscopic which means it is attracted to moisture and will bond at a molecular level. Phase Separation describes what happens to gasoline containing Ethanol when water is present. When gasoline containing even small amounts of Ethanol comes in contact with water, either liquid or in the form of humidity; the Ethanol will pick-up and absorb some or all of that water. When it reaches a saturation point, the Ethanol and water will Phase Separate, actually coming out of solution and forming two or three distinct layers in the tank. Phase Separation can happen in underground or aboveground storage tanks, in equipment fuel tanks, and even in the gas can in your garage. When this happens, it can lead to serious and even catastrophic engine problems, without warning. When this Phase Separation occurs, there will be an upper layer of gasoline with a milky layer of Ethanol and water below it, and then in many cases, a third layer of just water at the bottom which is where the fuel pick-up is in our machines. Ethanol is a strong, aggressive solvent and will cause problems with rubber hoses, o-rings, seals and gaskets. These problems worsen during extended storage when significant deterioration will take place. Hoses will delaminate, o-rings will soften and break down, and fuel system components made from certain types of polymers will either soften or become hard and brittle, eventually failing. Fuel system components made from brass, copper and aluminum will oxidize to the point of failure. Most of these materials can be found in our carburetors and fuel system. When using MotoMix® and Moto4Plus, these issues are eliminated, therefore saving you time and money. It also burns cleaner which is beneficial to the operator, as well as, the environment john..