john87

Hi All, Thanks for all the replies!! Yesterday i took the cover and chain off to have a look. It is DEFINITELY the right sprocket. That was just me overthinking it a bit. I know it is the right one, as i have compared it to the 3/8 lo-pro sprockets on two of my other saws and it is identical.. I tried another Stihl chain, a different model of chain, but a used one that has seen a bit of use. It seemed better but still not perfect. but as it is a Stihl chain i thought it would have been exactly the same, but no, quite a bit better. Perhaps this chain is run in a bit more, whereas the first chain has only seen 5 minutes use?? Now, if i take the bar off and loop the chain back on the sprocket and pull the chain back and forth, it is smooth as silk.. Perhaps it is just the geometry of the way the chain leaves the bar and wraps round the sprocket, as i have noticed that saws vary a lot in regards to this sort of thing. My Echo CS-352ES is absolutely the best in this respect, the chains glides around with a silky smoothness.. Could well be the new chain is somewhat stiffer. I will have a check tomorrow and post back.. john..

Hi All, Are all makes of chains of the same size interchangeable?? I know that sounds like a daft question, but having a bit of a problem.. When i tension the chain on my Echo 2511TES it is like how you would "imagine" it would feel if you had a hexagonal drive sprocket.. If you tension the chain "nicely", as you pull it round by hand, it feels very "lumpy" There is one lump, for about every one inch of chain travel along the bar. If you slacken the chain off a bit, the lumpiness goes away, but the chain is then slacker that i would be entirely happy with.. Any ideas??? Now, so far as i know, it is possible to get one of these saws [the TES-C] version i believe, with a 1/4" pitch chain. Could it be possible that my saw has the wrong drive sprocket, or would that be patently obvious?? The chain i am using is the Stihl full chisel 3617 chain. [3/8 lo-pro] Thanks all..

Thank you, that is useful to know!! john..

Are all saws etc like that?? I mean, the primer pulls the fule THROUGH the carb, and not stuffs it IN i mean. I have never had one to bits to see?? john..

Brilliant link there!!!! Loads of info.. john..

OP stated; "so i need to get the whole road length that i am working on sectioned off" john..

Not sure if you can close off a road fotally for ten minutes at a time.. basically, as you are moving from one light to another, the road would effectively be closed all day.. You need to talk to the highways authority john..

All depends on the circumstances though. I used to do multidrop with steel. I would have a 40 foot trailer with a 50 foot length of steel on there. I might have to do 5 drops before i could get it off. Was not nicae and you could not see the thing either.. I always used to put them on the left side of the trailer as i decided that if it was on the right, it there was too much chance of hittng street signs and car roofs as you turned sharp left.. In towns i used to go slowly with the windows down and wait to see if i could hear buckling metal and screams.. One day i was driving down a wide very quiet road out in the middle of nowhere, complete with the ten foot overhang. I decided i was going the wrong way and to turn around.. You can screw an artic round in a surprisingly small area, so this is what i did. Now, you imagine, the trailer is at right angles to the tractor unit, you just look out tjhe window and there it is. I heard a funny noise, and the steel moved a bit on the trailer.. OMG, you know them nice stone built bus shelters you see out in the country?? Well, i had completely demolished one!! Juat as well there was nobody in the thing!! john..

Errr.. NO!. Never tried one, but i would imagine it is perfectly horrid to try to drive!! A rigid truck is horrlble after an artic, never mind one with one of them weird trailers!! john..

I bet it is, depending on which wheel is on the ground, one second it will be like a 10 foot trailer, then the next, a 5 foot one!! john..

Yes ii bet!! I have never driven a traial over rough ground like that, but as you say, as whichever wheel decides it is time to act as a wheel, the trailer will do funny things!!

I would not listen to nonsense about it is easier with more axles... The problem you have with multi axle trailers, at least artic lorry sized ones, is that when you turn, the wheels are sliding sideways. The problem with this is, it means that the trailer rotates about a different point, depending on whether you are going backwards or forwards. This means that you may be able to get in somewhere going forward, but it might be completely impossible to reverse back out!! Next time you are behind an artic with a tri axle trailer, watch the way the trailer slides going round a smallish roundabout, You will see that it actually "pivots" as it were, about a point midway between the 1st and 2nd axle. It is completely different going backwards adn is like having a trailer 10 feet longer.. Good man using the mirrors. This means that when you are presented with a loaded vehicle, no problems, PLUS, if you cannot do it with the mirrors, how you ever going to reverse into anywhere on your blind side.. john..

Yes!! that is the one!! See what i mean though? Amazingly, even though max power is only about 1800 rpm, the thing felt really free revving and was great fun. The next iveco i had was a straight six, and even though it was more powerful it felt very "stiff" and inflexible compared to the Deutz motor.. LOVE your Iveco though!! That is beautiful!! john..

Same here!! I could not turn round if i wanted to!! john..

As it happens, with an artiic, a soon as you turn all you can see is the side of the trailer, so best you look first. It is surprising how little you can see..This is why you always try to do things in straight lines.. john..

The Iveco in my picture, i used to take it home at weekends and use it like a car. It was an aircooled 13 litre V8, but was the nicest motor you could imagine. Coupled with a beautiful Fuller gearbox it was lovely to drive. The handling was great, you could chuck it around and slide it about like a sports car. In the wet thanks to the huge torque you could break the back loose any time you wanted, so you could go round roundabouts sideways! I can confirm that come monday morning you would indeed forget the trailer was on there sometimes which would be very interesting when it suddenly loomed into one of the mirrors.. john..

My method removes any of this "counterintuitive" business. Back when i used to drive artics, after fifteen hours when your brain is fried and you cannot even remember where you are, my method would still would perfectly. Say you wanted to back onto a loading bay.just line the truck up facing AWAY from the bay, Into reverse, go back, which ever mirror the trailer appears in STEER THAT WAY. So, in the left mirror?? left hand down. Right mirror, right hand down. The truck will go straight backwards onto the bay... Beauty of it is, it takes away you having to think, just steer towards what ever mirror the trailer is appearing in,, Try it!! You must try to do everything in straight lines, so, if reversing into a road on the right. Your brain is fried, "which way" Well, you do not want the trailer appearing in the left mirror do you!! so you steer left and it starts to turn into the road, About halfway, PULL STRAIGHT. You are now directly opposite the road, so useing the mirrors, just go back in a straight line the way i explained.. Used to keep my trailer under control!! john..

Just do it as i say!!!! Just do it once and you will amaze yourself!! Trust me!! For those that think i do not know what i am on about and think you should look out the back window, er, no, what you going to do the first time you drive a loaded vehicle and you CANNOT see out the back.... john..

I found a video that expalins about the nucleation needed for crystals to form and also about starting nucleation by banging the water. This is the reason that it is difficult to do this, the vibration of the fridge is enough, it is a better job if you can get the water to freeze just by standing it outdoors.. See!!!! my hours in tech doing materials technology were not entirely wasted!! john.. supercooled+water - Recherche Google WWW.GOOGLE.CO.UK

Yes, anything PURE would solidify at a higher temperature than would a solution, even molton metals do this.. So, for an example, an alloy of tin and lead, [as in solder] solidifies at a lower temperature than would either pure lead or tin.. This is because the crystals of whatever it may be, need something to nucleate about.. So, yes, the dissolved sugars or whatever, would indeed act as an antifreeze... Apparently, if you take distilled water and cool it, you can go some way beyond the freezing point and nothing happens. You drop in a single grain of salt or whatever the the whole lot will suddenly set solid in front of your eyes.. [in theory at least!!] john..

Hi All, Was just wondering how do trees cope with cold??? I would have thought that the water in them would freeze and kill them?? How does a tree avoid this?? john..

Reversing is easy! There is a trick to it. First off. When trying to go backwards in a straight line, DO NOT look at the trailer. Do it all using the mirrors.. All you have to do, is to watch the mirrors. Which ever mirror the trailer starts to appear in, STEER THAT WAY. So, if the trailer starts to appear in the left mirror, turn the steering to the left. The trailer will now disappear and start to appear in the RIGHT mirror. So, what do you do?? Yes, you turn the steering to the right. The end result is that you go straight backwards!! Before any of this mind, you need to adjust your mirrors so that when the thing is all in a straight line, if you look in the mirrors you can preferably see straight down either side, or, if not, that there is an equal amount of trailer in each mirror. Once you have the hang of this, it is all easy after that.. Hope this helps.. john..

What size trailer?? john..

Ok, so you find a large willow complete with fungus growing out of it over a primary school yard. What makes you think you would be justified in not removing it.. john..

Terrible thing to have happened.. No good trying to blame it on admin arrors though.. Cannot help but think that, given the fact that bits fall off willow trees all the time, what was one even doing near a primary school play ground?? Secondly, i cannot help but think that half the blame for this should be laid at the door of he tree hugging idiots that think a tree comes above all else.. As soon as the first person saw the state of the thing they should straight away have arranged to have it felled. Where was all the common sense?? Never mind their admin systems, you would think that anyone with a brain, would, upon seeing the tree, have gone and spoke with the headmaster and told him of their concerns.. Can tell you what will happen now... Up and down the country the local authorities will be felling any willow tree that is anywhere near a school, if not all of them in public places.. john.. It will be a bit like the council sponsored vandalising of graveyards that we all have seen..