Gav73

Firebricks! Hadn’t thought about that and I’ve got some sitting in the shed! Yes it is a lovely stove, I think it could be French from the detail on it - but that might be a red herring. Can’t find anything like it online

Yes it’s definitely copper!

I’ve got an antique wood/solid fuel cooker, on the left hand side is a water tank and on the right hand side there is an oven, plus one very small oven that you could just about fit a jacket spud in. The water tank is accessed via the lift up lid on the left - only once used it to heat water and what came out wasn’t something I’d be keen to use - a nice blueish green colour. I’m guessing it would become clearer if it was used regularly, but I have no need to do so. I’m thinking about using the water tank to create some form of thermal mass that will continue to radiate some heat long after the stove has gone out. I’m leaning towards putting sand into the tank, but don’t know if that would work or cause some issues further down the line (if it needed to come out, that isn’t a problem as the tank lifts out with ease). Anyone had any experience of this or have any suggestions for options?

Years of working in an industry that used call recording. With regards to GDPR, that came in after my time. I totally understand the “lost call” scenario, there’s two issues there. The first is not being able to find a call (ie no record on a file of when a call took place and which agent, phone number etc makes finding a call like looking for a needle in a haystack) and the second is if the recording software fails - which I’m pretty sure needs to be reported to the regulator.

I tried some super unleaded in my backpack blower for the first time this week - only thing I noticed was how much fuel it went through, about double the amount it usually does!

Unfortunately that’s not the case. Phone conversations aren’t part of a data subject access request. The telephone line is recorded as one continuous recording, software is then used to “find” the relevant conversation using time stamps, the agents name and the telephone number captured to listen to that call. The way it’s captured falls into what’s called a structured data set - which basically means it is not a single persons data and therefore isn’t held against any persons name or details and doesn’t form part of a data subject access request - you only get details held against your name, reference number and address etc

Especially when they are trying to rush and cut corners to make that extra £.

Date for this says 7th November. Guess I better get the DeLorean out….

I bought one a firewood bagger years ago (when they were cheaper!) and it was one of the best purchases I’ve made, since then I’ve made two smaller versions for my kindling out of scrap wood and chipboard. I used candle wax on the edges of the chipboard to smooth out any potential snag points after I’d sanded them. Didn’t cost me anything other than about an hour of my time.

Many years ago I introduced scheduled breaks into an office I worked in. Before this time people just took a break as and when they wanted one. Over the course of the trial the amount of actual break time went up by 50% (some people didn’t take breaks) but overall productivity went up 20%. People were happier and more motivated and it became part of the normal working day. Set scheduled breaks in this industry wouldn’t work as well as you can’t exactly stop a tree dropping halfway to make a cuppa, but the same principle can apply, just the breaks come at a natural point to stop. I’m a firm believer in the fact you get more out of people and they are happier if the working conditions are right for them. So I also think there are times when pushing through and finishing a job to go home earlier is the right call. Ultimately safety comes out on top. If people are tired, hungry or thirsty, that’s when mistakes are made and it becomes dangerous. Better to have a break and made sure everyone gets home in one piece.

Have to agree that cats are worse, I have a constant battle with them, raised veg plots all have to have chicken wire on them to stop them using them and destroying any veg. Worse is my outdoor workspace. It’s essentially just an open sided barn with woodchip on the floor and a gas bottle wood stove for a little bit of heat. Every time I fire up the stove the smell is horrendous from the little nuggets they’ve buried in the woodchip next to it. I’ve tried raking it to get rid of them, but that seemed to encourage them even more. Even tried building a sawdust outdoor litter tray (complete with roof and privacy walls) and it was completely ignored. I swear cats just like to annoy people, they are devious and vindictive.

Jeez. I’ve just added up what I’ve got in the motor at the minute for a delivery. At 90 quid a net, it’s worth more than the motor!! [emoji23]

If you’re lighting the stove I’m going to guess it will be cold, so how many of your neighbours will be outside in the cold? Do any of the neighbours moan when someone in the area has a BBQ? As long as the wood is well seasoned, I’d reckon you’ll be ok.

I make mine out of a single piece of seasoned beech log. They last about a year (and they are used a lot) before the handle invariably snaps and then they just get chucked into the fire.

I get pretty regular drop offs of woodchip and I’ve always tried to move it/use it the same day or at the very worst the following day. Firstly because once it starts to break down it always seems heavier and secondly because I didn’t like the smell of the steam - guessing that my eagerness to shift it has done me a favour!

Best trailer training in the world is on my drive. It’s narrow, off a single track road with low walls either side of it, it’s uphill, on an adverse camber and there’s only just enough room to get a big trailer and motor round it! I don’t think any training or qualifications would prepare someone for it. But from the practice I’ve had with it, I have the confidence to reverse my trailer safely into any space I need. Basic training is always a good idea, but it’s the practical application - and regular use, that teaches more. For example I understood the principles of what to do if you get a blow out on a trailer tyre, but until it happened to one of the tyres on my twin axle, I didn’t know how I would react to it. It’s not something you can simulate

Just watched the video on YouTube, faster cutting is always a plus. It will be interesting to see what the cost is and also how the sharpening compares.

Well that’s clear as mud. It’s not a tip site, but it is a tip site. It’s a wood yard, but it’s not a firewood yard. It’s a lumber yard, but it’s not a lumber yard. I think this is one of those riddles. The answer to how much firewood is there is the trick. It’s either none as the wood is taken away to turn into firewood elsewhere or it’s the amount they can fit into the firebox of their log burner!

Knowing my luck if I used an impact gun on the bolt I’d probably send it right through the engine [emoji23][emoji23]

I do archery a couple of times a week. Firstly, I wouldn’t get that set - there are better second hand ones on eBay for similar money if you’re looking for a starter kit and if you want a proper kit, try somewhere like Archery Equipment | Merlin Archery WWW.MERLINARCHERY.CO.UK Welcome to Merlin Archery! Shop 200+ brands of the finest archery equipment from around the world. Bows, arrows, targets and accessories all at great prices. they have an online form that will find something that suits you better. Yes you can go nuts and spend a fortune, but my first kit (included everything I needed) was about £150. Secondly 40lb is too high to start off with. Look for something around the mid 20’s in draw weight. It’s much better to get the accuracy on a lower poundage bow before moving up the weights. The other things you need to consider is your draw length, your height and your strength. I am 6’4 and use a 70” bow, the limbs I use are 36# at 28 inches (standard draw length) but because my arms are so long my draw length is 32” which means I’m shooting at around 42#. I’ve only moved up to more poundage when I can draw and hold the bow steady for 60 seconds before releasing and still hit the bullseye. If you do want any suggestions, give me a shout.

I’ve got a mountfield with a Honda engine. Two things to be careful of - The warranty starts the second you buy it - so if you get it at the end of season, you’re “wasting” a big chunk of the warranty. Also heard of people who bought mowers out of season and when they came to use them they wouldn’t start. Dealers were saying it was user error as they left them full of fuel over winter and the damage was not covered. 2nd is the blade bosses on some mountfields would be better if they were made out of cardboard. I’ve had them break from just starting the mower and god help you if hit anything tougher than a tiny twig. I ended up fabricating a bracket to strengthen the boss. Other than those issues I rate the mower highly.

That website will take you to some very friendly people…

Good luck with that one!! I’ve got size 13 and was very lucky in finding a pair of stein boots that fitted, but it too took me a long time!

Got some lovely yew sitting waiting on me deciding what to do with it if you fancy a trip north of the border [emoji23]

Couldn’t tell you about the inside walls, mine are covered up by side boilers, same with the top. What I can say is ours is set up with the flue out the top, there is the option for a rear flue and I can see that has a dusting of surface rust. Nothing drastic or concerning.