DanBous

I have a fairly large Holme oak I am removing next week in Huntington, Cambridgeshire. Is the wood any good? Anyone interested in it? I'll put a pic of the tree...if anyone interested pm me and I'll send some pics of the wood once it's down...

Leylandii tree line (overgrown hedge) reduction

My Ts and Cs are attached to every quote I send out...but until this situation arose, I didn't have anything about cancellation on them. Kind of took it on the chin when someone once in a blue moon cancelled, but last time it happened I just thought why should I be messed around like this?! (Im not talking about someones loved one passing away and them wanting to cancel an upcoming job for example, its the idiots that get someone cheaper or someone that can do it sooner behind your back) So not looking to remedy this particular situation, but looking forward I am basically wondering if I can put a clause in my Ts and Cs saying cancellation by the client after agreement in writing of the works, will result in a percentage fee or similar....but that's why I am asking about cooling off period, because I don't want to look like a twit and charge a cancelled client a fee, when actually they were in there rights to cancel with a legal cooling off period.

Well, to be honest I posted for two reasons - 1.) to see if anyone had any advice regarding small claims court or such, and 2.) to warn others. We all make silly mistakes here and there, and I've certainly learnt by this one.

Tonytree, that's interesting. They go by the name of Edfirst

Dan, that's a good idea cheers. Will give insurance a call.

So last autumn I was sold a school supplies service contract for 18months. I have it in writing from the sales person that I would not need to provide a quote, and that I would be able to turn up and bill accordingly. So I payed my £600.00 cost of the contract A few days later, another member of staff at the school supplies service, tells me that I do in fact have to provide a quote. The main reason why I took on this contract was because of the attraction of extra work that I didn't have to drive round the county quoting for. So IMO I have been mis sold the contract and deserve a full refund. I have been chasing them since last September and have got no where, apart from evasive replies to my emails and phone calls. (Added to the fact that I have not received one call from a school!!) Advice please guys! Small Claims court?! Lastly, DO NOT TAKE ANY NOTICE OF A COMPANY CALLED SCHOOLS SUPPLIES SERVICE WHO MAY CONTACT YOU!

Hi Guys If a client accepts my written quotation, in return by writing - do they have a legal right to then cancel on me? (NB - I don't mean postpone) Cheers

Awkward wind blown eucalyptus stump. Tried to cut it up with a saw but chain dulled instantly. Too much dirt in it...did consider hiring digger and lifting out of garden but acsess too narrow...approach angle just about within the operating limits of the machine. All went well [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106]

It's interesting because they are always fine on my ground saws...

Well that is a bit late for that, as I've been so busy and haven't had a chance to even call them. I've also opened one of them to have a look now too!

Anyone else get problems running Oregon bars and chains on their 201t? I've got a 14inch Oregon "advance cut" bar running on Oregon "versa cut" 91VXL050 chain. It snatches and jamming, and jumps around like crazy. I've tried more than one of the same chain, and I have tried different increments of chain tension, but all to know avail. Yes it's sharp, it's on the right way around and the depth gauges are set correctly [emoji4]

So I ordered a couple of cans of sthil synth plus oil to make an order up on honey brothers recently. Some incompetent person sent me two cans of forest plus instead, which I believe is a cheaper oil... Can I mix them? Anyone tried? What is the difference. They look the same to me....

So best to apply stump killer first and wait a while? I've got sbk... Jobs going to be done in the winter, so by the time spring comes round I'll see if the sbk has worked I guess...

Hi Guys, A question for you all - if one fells a willow tree, then grinds out the stump (I mean completely grinding out), will the rooting system that is left in the ground send up growth's?? I have several large willows to fell for a national trust site, and the stumps to grind. I have proved with most species that grinding immediately or soon after after felling is the end of the tree, but we all know that willows are a bit different with their growth habits I.e. cut logs shooting new growth etc!! So would I need to fell, apply stump killer, wait, then grind out so I am sure the whole rooting system is dead? Would welcome any feedback, thoughts, experience, knowledge, here. Many thanks

Hi all if anyone is interested in buying a post puller (see them here at https://www.postpullers.co.uk/) I have one only a few months old been used twice. As new. Including claw attachment. If you are interested let me know. They are over 2k plus vat new. I'm looking for £1750 (no vat). If you are a fencer these are great. I just don't use it enough and I bought it in a rush... Cheers

I wonder where you would stand, if you turned up and started chainsawing the fence posts off at the ground, and the customer turned up on the scene and panicked and shoved the cash in your hand?? Would you be required to re install the fence? Okay, you could refuse payment and finish smashing the fence down, but on a big job costing several grand you would be crazy not to accept the payment!! ??

Try calling them from a different number? So he doesn't know it's you calling [emoji106]

Apples and pears winter. Plums and cherries early summer. My brother manages 70 acres of the above, and that is how he does it.

I run a little fsi b20 alongside the zt (which I had before my zt). Get pretty much anywhere with the two

IMO, if you are running a business properly, you should have a business account with a float of capital in it, that you dig into for the costs of a job - be that labour, fuel for tree work, or perhaps materials for fencing, and then when you are paid at the end of the job, the expenditure is made good plus the profit [emoji3] Appreciate some huge jobs might involve more outlay than what the contractor has available, but even then there are credit cards etc.

Just a thought, Have you tested the battery? I had a load of problems with my feed rollers/no stress and I charged my battery up and it solved it. Tw125 does not have an alternator, just relies on a coil on the flywheel to send a bit of juice back to the battery, so unless you are using for long periods of time, it will slowly wear the battery down, which will then affect the electrical system. Give it a go...pop it on charge tonight [emoji106]

Been a while since I caught up on this chaps, but thank you each for your contributions. It did occur to me that I can double wrap the cambium saver round a stem, but I appreciate this is not retrievable. This also does not provide a solution to having a secondary point of attachment when spiking on a stem. I agree that ideally a multi saver/pulley saver/ art rope guide would be best as they are built for purpose. Seems simple having one device for an anchor point and also then a secondary point of attachment when spiking on a stem. If I splash out on one of these three, I want to be sure I've chosen the right one. The three pictures included show 3 different configurations that I have come up with...starting off with a prussik and climbs line choked round the stem, then a sown sling choked round the stem, and then improving this by instead using a short piece of rope choked round the stem with a fisherman's, a prussik with the pulley and climbing system. Quite a long system though. I would be really interested to get as many viewpoints as possible on these three configurations. Would any of you chaps use any of them? I appreciate a mallion would be better on the pulley

Fair play Jose, I know someone who has a Rock grinder and it seems to work out for him on little stuff. I guess we all differ on how we work, what we want to spend, what our priorities are, how much effort we want to put in, how efficient we can be etc etc... Suppose this is a bit of a pointless post, but wanted to make sure my original post didn't seem arrogant - in no way was it intended to be such [emoji106]

Newbie here to foot ascenders...can any of you just confirm that they are ok to be fitted round spikes? I use the bashlin twisted steel shank spikes, and am considering buying the CT or stein foot ascender. Thanks