DanBous

I have an FSI b20 which I run along side my bandit zt. The fsi is the smallest grinder worth buying imo, unless you need a magnum...all these cheap grinders are a joke to use, and hard work too.

Not sure why you have called me catweazel. No one called catweazel on this thread either. Mine never made any bad noises when driving...I couldn't lift the cab that's all. Torsion bar not much change out of 100 quid from Nissan. Took it to a garage to get it fitted as it was beyond me due to the weight of the cab...I believe it took four guys to lift the cab over. I think couple of hundred garage bill

I run a zt, delivered late January done about 25 hours now, great machine. I was wondering if I would be disappointed by 300mm depth as opposed to the 450mm depth of the predator...odd times I need to go deeper just dig out under tracks or pop a lump of wood under the rear of the track.. never tried a predator but had a look at some 2nd hand predators but seemed to shake themselves to bits...loads of welding and bolts missing. Heavy as well. And expensive. Bandit affordable, capable, powerful and well made. Have a chat with Dean from global recycling. He posts on here

I've had UPS honey brothers parcels just left outside my house in full view of the road and pavement, with hundreds worth of stuff in...I think they are a little careless about safely delivering their orders!!

Sorry guys, to deviate from the title of the thread, but people's ignorance sometimes needs education!!

@Vespasian These are not my own words but have a read of this... let’s be clear what this woman was requesting. She was asking that the Lord and His disciples accompany her to her home in pagan Tyre or Sidon to heal her daughter. That would involve not simply a quick quiet trip in and out of her city, but a full-scale mission to the Gentile population of the area. Jesus of Nazareth was not able to make quick quiet trips anywhere, for wherever He went a great crowd followed Him. Acceding to the woman’s request would mean days ministering to all the sick, demon-possessed, and afflicted of Tyre and Sidon. And this was not the time for such a mission to the Gentiles. As the Lord said, He was then sent only to the lost sheep of the House of Israel (Matthew 15:24), and even the Twelve were told to conduct their mission only in Jewish towns, avoiding cities of the Gentiles and the Samaritans (Matthew 10:5-6). The time for a full-scale outreach to the Samaritans and Gentiles would come later. That is why our Lord refused her request. To deny the Twelve their desperately needed rest to minister to the Gentiles of Tyre and Sidon would be as inappropriate as taking the food from the table at which hungry children were sitting and giving it instead to the little dogs under the table. Surely anyone could see that the children must be fed first. The needs of the Twelve for rest must take priority over the needs of the Gentiles in those cities. Then the Canaanite woman makes her response—and changes her request. Okay: Jesus will not accompany her to her place of residence. Let the children be fed. But little dogs can still eat the odd crumb that falls from the table while the children eat. Let the Lord say the word and heal the woman’s daughter at a distance, while He and the Twelve stayed here resting! It was a bold request, and one that showed tremendous faith on her part. Many people had faith that Jesus could come and heal; this woman had faith He that could heal at a great distance, His simple word of command working a miracle across the miles. That is why Jesus did not say, “O woman, great is your boldness” or “O woman, great is your perseverance”, but rather, “O woman, great is your faith” (Matthew 15:28). And because of this faith, Christ granted her second request, healing her daughter instantly across the miles—“she went home, and found the child lying in bed, and the demon gone (Mark 7:30). We see in this passage that Jesus does not in fact call the Gentile woman “a dog” or even “a little dog.” Rather, He compares the situation of conflicting needs to the situation of hungry children sitting at a food-laden table with hungry little dogs underneath, and says that the children at the table must be fed first—to explain why He cannot accompany her to her home. His willingness to grant her second and amended request shows His great love for her, and for all the children of men. That love even bridged the gap between Jew and Gentile, giving to the Canaanite woman in advance what would later come to all the Gentiles of the world.

As the two topics of swearing and opposition to life choices have come up here, I feel I want to make my contribution. Continued swearing shows a limited vocabulary on part of the swearer... People don't even use the words in the proper context. A bit more respect in the way we speak to each other and the way we describe others, could mean that when we disagree with others lifestyle choices, religion etc, we are actually able to agree to differ courteously and respectfully. Disagreeing with someone's choice of lifestyle or religion etc., on grounds of conscience shouldn't mean that one is a "bigot", and shouldn't mean hatred towards that individual(s) group of people, but simply means one has their own views which they are quite entitled to. I was brought up a Bible believing Christian, and I do not use swear words (it is possible!!). Neither do I agree with Islam, but that doesn't mean I hate Muslims in general...I don't believe homosexuallity has Gods approval, but that doesn't mean I hate gay people. What people want to do is none of my business (until they start indoctrination of children). We are all humans on the same level. If we are supposed to all respect each other, I would like to see a cut to some of the blasphemy and mocking of traditional Christianity that I find on here. And it would be refreshing to see swearing cut out. We belong to a great industry, and I enjoy this forum for its advice and support. I have a lot of respect for some of you guys on here as well. Let's keep it clean and respectful [emoji106][emoji106]

Just make sure you don't compromise the number of bolts holding the brackets to the chassis - I could of gone higher, but it would of meant being unable to use two of the bolts as the two of the bracket holes would of been higher than the top of the chassis framework...[emoji106]

I'm guessing you have already checked this out, (without seeing a picture of your towbar I can't see if it's the same as my vehicle) but have a look at all the components that make up the towing frame as well as the towball bracket itself...I have a Nissan cabstar, and the towbar was very low, so once I had loaded it with logs and chip, and then towing the chipper too, the towball and the chipper drawbar were silly close to the road (Still plenty of give in the rear springs, and not overloaded) I looked underneath where the whole towing frame bolts to the chassis, and realised there is adjustable holes to fix it to...I raised it by two holes to the maximum height. Then I flipped the crossbar (that the towball is bolted too) through 180 degrees and that gave me another inch. Hope this makes sense...worth a look on your van of its possible

Hey Forestboy, those DeWalt nail guns you've got...are they the 18v lithium ion ones?? Are they gasless? I've got a Hitachi battery and gas (copy of a paslode) and it's always playing up...sounds like you rate the DeWalt ones highly

Nice to hear something positive, slightly countering all the negative issues of kit getting constantly nicked [emoji106]

Hi Guys, Just wondering what you would do with this poplar... It's right next to the house, the client doesn't want to remove it, but wants it to be made "safe" There is a small amount of deadwood to be removed, apart from this would you Pollard the whole thing, or reduce your a third...I've never done a poplar before, and I can't see that a Pollard or a 30 percent reduction would be much different (I appreciate that it depends on how heavy you Pollard it) Also, if pollarding was an option, would this create lots of regrowth that would be a safety issue due it's weak unions with the old wood?? Your help would be much appreciated Thanks Dan

Just a consideration...I've seen apple trees develop huge scab disease problems on the fruit as a cause of putting fresh cow manure underneath them. Not sure if this applies with blackcurrants though.

I tried that john, but the Allen head turns as well. Tonight, after another days grinding, I did the belt tensions again and I got my little impact screwdriver, with a hex head bit in it, and tried the hex head bolt, whilst holding the back with the spanner. It didn't turn...gun is rated at 106nm, bolt is 108nm with thread lock...but I gave it some with the gun figuring that the vibrations might loosen it a bit...tried it again with a 3foot bar and it went with a crack!! Problem solved.

Another question for fellow zt owners... The instructions for track tension adjustment seem pretty straight forward and were also explained to me on delivery of the machine... However - what exactly do I use to put the required 45.4kg of force onto the track, so I can measure the deflection?? Thanks in advance. I will pop a pic of the page from the manual below.

Any Bandit zt1844 grinder owners out there??... I had my first day out with my new zt and when I got back home, I thought id check and adjust the belt tension... So what the manual calls the engine side, was easy enough - slacken off the belt tension pivot bolt, put the torque wrench onto the belt tensioner bolt etc, etc. The belt tension pivot bolt is just a simple bolt, which screws into a captive nut or thread, so one socket is required.... However, on the cutter wheel side, I went to slacken off the belt tension pivot bolt and found a hex head bolt. (Apparently this is fitted because a normal bolt head rubs on the belts.) So of course this hex head bolt is tightened right up to the recommended 108Nm, and despite getting a perfect fit hex head socket and a long bar on it, I can't budge it!! Eventually I realise that the hex head socket is actually starting to chew up the hex head bolt!! To make it worse, there is a 19mm nut on the back of this bolt that requires holding with a spanner even more awkward with one person...(why can't Bandit make it captive like the engine side??!!). So how on earth are people getting this bolt undone please??!! I can't believe I have to go and spend a load of money on an impact gun... I tensioned the belts without slackening the belt tension pivot bolt, but this is not ideal and I am worried that the cutter side belts are not tensioned correctly. Any help from fellow zt owners would be much appreciated.

Thanks for the answers so far guys. I'll pop a picture on here of an acquaintance using a sling and a pulley. Your thoughts much appreciated. Is this safe? Why don't more people do it?

Hi guys just a couple of questions which I'd appreciate some help with. 1. )I am fairly new to climbing, currently using a zig zag to climb with, and a cambium saver on my anchor point...can anyone advise on a better method of anchorage? As I am limited with my cambium saver to unions, and I need to be able to anchor to a vertical stem, like a Pollard for example. 2.) What sort of secondary attachment point are people using when spiking? I currently have my wire core flip line, but I need a means of securing my climbing line to the stem just underneath the flip line, so I can rapidly descend if necessary. Perhaps the answer for this is the same as my first question? Thanks in advance [emoji4]

Can anyone point me in the direction of a decent ramp manufacturer please? I need a pair of 8ft ramps for driving my new Bandit zt1844 grinder into the back of my Nissan Cabstar... They need to be light as possible (I assume this means aluminum?), for carrying to and from Cabstar when needed/not needed, and also if I have to carry them across a job to get across a ditch or something. I was considering buying the Brian James 8ft trailer ramps (eventually going to be buying Brian James tipper) but the weight of them puts me off...it's fine on a trailer where they live underneath and you just slide them out!! The world of ramps seems endless...

I did exactly the same when buying my new stump grinder...it's great to see all the options side by side, as I found I'd often be focusing on a positive of a certain machine in comparison to another, and then forgetting a negative. Having everything in front of you in one table is excellent. 100 percent recommend doing this homework when buying something [emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106]

I've got this lovely section of beech stem right from the base of the tree so lots of interesting grain... When I started wood turning I was advised to seal the cut ends with PVA glue to slow down the drying process and avoid splitting. I have tried this on numerous occasions but the wood still splits as it dries. Any suggestions? Another coat of PVA?! I've brushed one coat over this particular section of beech stem... What are others using to seal/dry the green wood? Thanks

Bump. Any news on your project huskykev??

That's exactly why it's on my bench [emoji4]

Well, the tree had been butchered/hacked by the usual culprits some years previously...

Thanks guys for your helpful advice...will go steady, etc.