Dan Maynard

Are they "ton bags" which can be 90cm x 90cm x 90cm. This is only 0.73m3 so then your £70 per bag is right back on the money at £96 per cube.

He's in Portugal. Maybe someone who used to work there might have it? Long shot though.

The other two problems with storing the logs to dry are having two or three years cashflow tied up in stock isn't good for any business if you can help it, and without a kiln you have no way to respond to a good year of sales as you just have to guess how well logs are going to sell two years in advance rather than 6 weeks. If it stays cold through March and April you might make an extra 2 months of sales. Like you I solve both of these problems by not paying for the raw material so no cash tied up, and keeping a massive excess stock. I'm not a commercial producer either. Edit gdh already said about adapting to demand, sorry.

If you're asking for a mate, the answer is no the whole tree is dangerous and you'd best take the logs off his hands for safety, and for his own good.

I would do the chainsaw tickets (felling and crosscutting) and spend the money on good chainsaw boots and trousers. To manage your own woodland you probably won't need to climb. Doing the medium tree felling course would also be more worthwhile than climbing. Climbing is really expensive, you're some thousands in for the courses and gear. Rather than set off to France and and climb stuff on your own with no experience, hire somebody on the very rare occasions it really is necessary. Otherwise fell, winch, bring stuff down to the ground. Safer, quicker, easier. Get a small tractor, see what you need when you get there.

Looks a bit like another bush removed from that side maybe?

Got any pics?

Sweet chestnut I've seen in numbers was down in the South downs, in coppice woodland. Only seen one or two round here in gardens so not sure quite how far the natural range extends north.

I think somewhere around £10k +VAT, but that was few years ago so maybe with current weak pound could be more. Saw one on eBay not too long ago that went for about 6.5k, was in good condition too. Really tempted to buy because mine is very old, but thought I can buy some paint and a new engine if needed for a lot less. I think some of the new Haeksler are getting closer as have 18hp and self drive, otherwise don't think there are any others which are 24hp and have self propulsion. Also it has 50cm wide opening to put branches in so you can squeeze a fork and shove it in, a lot of the others are 30 or 40cm.

I've run 36" lo-pro on my 372, it cuts ok but is just faster with a bigger saw. 42 you will need to be careful when cutting the full width boards, it will be slow but you'll make progress. It sounds to me like you have a fair bit of timber around, you should get the 42 as you'll end up getting a bigger saw later. Otherwise if you can live without the waney edge look (you probably take the sapwood off oak before using it anyway) then stick on 36". Freehand the sides off the log when you need to, it's not too difficult with a long bar. The Stihl GB bars on chainsawbars can be adapted to either Husqvarna or Stihl with a little aluminium spacer, so that if you find a secondhand 660 or 395 you'll be ok, or indeed 880. One last tip is the lo-pro 3/8 is a different height to standard 3/8 chain and requires a different drive sprocket.

The only snag with this line of thinking is that you are not counting the houses they built badly in 1730 which have fallen down in the meantime.

I agree not so black and white. My ropes 3 or 4 years old I would shrug and say nearly due for replacement anyway, if it's brand new then it's a different conversation.

We were in Northumberland on holiday a couple of months ago, what I saw is it's patchy. Some blocks are ok, some the trees were blown over with rootplate all in swathes, some blocks looked like the trees snapped off half way up the stem and just trees everywhere - more like a picture from WW1 than anything I've seen. There are also loads of individual trees down in fields and roads, these have just been cut and cleared for access so presumably people will eventually tidy these up. I imagine there's a shortage of labour for all the individual trees too, but also maybe a shortage of money to pay for the huge amount of work.

We're in a CA, it's not bad. We had to get approval on the garage when we wouldn't if not, and submit tile sample but they let us have concrete tiles even though house is old pantile. They aren't too bothered what happens inside, porch would need approval as it changes appearance but provided it's in keeping I would have thought it would be ok. It's nowhere near as bad as being listed.

Exactly why I like my VT. I also reckon I've got faster at doing the job in the last 5 years by moving less not by moving faster.

Whenever I see yes minister I think that is still exactly how the government is run.

That looks like it could just have a bit of 3mm plate across? Make a template with cardboard.

Quite possible to make one, it's only a frame to hold the bar steady.

Will be interesting to see, when I replaced the battery on my chipper I found a car battery was much cheaper than the small one I had, think maybe 40Ah and about half the price. Seems to have been fine since.

I don't care which section you post, it's just there are loads of pictures of wood which has been milled with one. 572 is enough power if you are patient, probably you want a lo-pro 36" bar and then with that you can mill up to about 24" wide. You lose a disappointing amount of bar in the clamps each end. If you're only ever going to do one log then cost of parts is not that far off paying someone with the gear for a day to get it done.

True a lot of the branches you could do natural crotch, but the ring you can slap anywhere on the branch, maybe just inside the cut so as well as the rope wear argument I would take it because it's more flexible. Other times I would not natural crotch would be on conifers, or if pruning branches. Another option because you can choke it on is go around the stem just below the top crotch and then multisaver over the crotch. Rigging lines nicely below and out of the way of climb line. Sometimes ash or pop are like this, not much to use for natural crotch. I used to carry sling and steel biner and you can do a lot of the branches that way, but the ring is smoother and gives more friction so can cope with bigger pieces. It can also stay as top anchor if you decide that you need to get a bollard out part way through. I really like that for one piece of gear it has loads of uses, definitely a gadget I have bought and used rather than one stuck in the kit bag. I bought a rigging wrench recently too, which I'm hoping is the same but with additional feature that you can pull pieces back up. Only tried on one job, so far it was a bit annoying that the friction seemed a little too high and not adjustable, so I'm going to try it with 12mm rather than 12.7mm rope next time. We did pull branches up though so that part was handy.

There are lots of pictures of stuff alaskan milled in the milling forum. The mill is just a cheap frame though, the expensive bit is a big enough saw.

Script writing for the Tiktok generation. I reckon £300 is right sort of money, you're likely to get the job again at that sort of price so you decide if that's too cheap or not....

Same, except I only tried SJ once - that was enough.

You would put one every 2-4 inches in a ring around a larger stump, so they are strong but you use quite a few on a big stump. Only disadvantage to those is the plastic bits left in the ground afterwards but they are easy to pick up if you're nearby.