Devilgate

Hi All - I’m looking for an introductory tree surgeon\safety course for tree climbing near to London, or if it was a weekend or two, around Shropshire region could also be an option. Wouldn’t mind some advice on a decent harness/rigging too. I’ve been considering a Petzl Sequoia and Petzl Zig Zag, but wondered if I would notice any difference opting for a cheaper Treehog harness/climbing kit. I usually steer clear of Chinese/copies when it comes to tools. My instinct is to get professional quality equipment now and I won’t ever need to get another. (buy once - cry once). I’m described as a fit 52yrs, med height and stocky build. Previously my only tree climbing has been, pruning dead wood from our oak and lime, using ladders and rope prusics and a fall arrest harnesses for safety. Being a signwriter many years ago, I am used to working at heights. Scaling ladders and walking out on planks (which is probably illegal now!) I’d like to learn the safe way of scaling a tree and moving across branches. The reason: We are moving to rural France and will need to manage a small forest on our property. Be as harsh as you want with your advice guys and gals. Let’er rip. I can take it.

My background is signwriting and a bit of french polishing. We used to use linseed oil to slow paint, improve reflow (reduce brush marks) and clean. I personally don’t use it for any bare wood finish except a cricket bat. Mainly because it has a tendency to go “fatty” if put on too liberally and doesn’t clean and soak in like Danish oil, or Teak oil. Thinning Linseed oil helps penetration and speeds each coat drying. Like most coatings, several thin coats are better than one thick. If you rub just thinner (turps, white spirit, even laquer thinner) you can sort of draw out the oil you’ve put in to try and remove the spoiled linseed that is in the wood.