Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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The studs are not supposed to be a real tight fit, you should lift the bar when tightening nuts and that clamps it tight to stop movement. I notice the gauge is .050 whereas I think .063 would be normal, but that shouldn't be a problem. If you hadn't changed the studs I would say check the threads, I have seen damage that stops the nut going down before it gets properly tight against the cover. As you have changed the studs I would ask if they are definitely right and fitted correctly, and aren't stopping the cover closing
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I have 5 wrap 3 braid VT, I'm 100kg so I think this is why I found Knut would bind up a bit much. I did mean to take off and measure over the weekend but it's quite long, using 10mm hitch cord over 13mm rope. I would just buy a few metres of cord, you need to try stuff out and adjust the length so making your own knots is better as well as cheaper in my book.
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It looks to me as if the crowns are interlocked but not enough for the small to be providing a lot of support to the big, so I'm with Steve on the bigger one would stay up and fell the small one first. Line in just in case it needs a tug. I can see the skittle would work but not sure I'd have the nerve and there is more chance of a nasty mess to sort out when it all lands. Other thought looks like a MO and big chipper job, lot of weight to shift around.
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Does your Facebook business page bring you in work?
Dan Maynard replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Business Management
Not sure I get many new enquiries but I think it's important to be on FB as people contact me on the messenger app. Mobile signal is crap in the village so a lot of people using FB messenger before WhatsApp became popular. It is also my shop window as said above. -
M500 fan here, you never regret having more power in the chipper. I couldn't spend 10k either so found one second hand. I know Martin near us has a JoBeau M400 which he tows with a tracked barrow. Otherwise I think it's the Peruzzo.
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I can't really see any problem coming back, the sale would have to fall through and the new owners then want to pursue you, that doesn't sound like the sort of property that gets sold at auction. I agree it's a tricky one when you see people working unsafely, and you have the gear to do it better. I don't think you can do more than offer something fair, and then it's up to them to choose. After all they could drive down the road like a lunatic next, and you have a car..... Sometimes it works out though, last year I stopped to offer help to some people with ladder and bowsaw out. Only beer money but more importantly it led to a recommendation to their friend and so far two days work at nice rate so glad I stopped.
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Interested, going to depend on distances I guess.
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Are you going to climb with it? If so I would go 462, or 500i if you feel it's worth the extra money, on 25". If you're on the ground doing lots of big stems, and/or want something you could mill with, then maybe 661 is right choice. Heavy though.
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Ah that's good - didn't even try an original part, I was looking for the Oregon drum which they appear to have stopped making - or at least that's what I concluded last year.
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Yeah I knew that really, was just about to set off to work in my landrover so made me chuckle. I was mostly interested in the winch comment though, I don't have one at the moment and I've seen some sets of parts for pro winch on eBay end they look like a fair bit of work to fit. Electric hung off the towbar is probably favourite at the moment.
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'good but slow' and 'wouldn't have another' Was that the winch or the landrover?
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It is not a bolt, the end of the crankshaft is threaded and the clutch is like a huge nut. The thread is set so that it tightens as the saw cuts rather than undoing, so has to be left hand. Have you found just a sprocket or do you have a new drum as well? Changed the rim sprocket on my PS6000i but the drum will want doing next time and I think they are obsolete.
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There is certainly no shortage of raw material for hydrogen, just tricky stuff to keep around once you've separated it. Certainly a few years ago hydrogen was all the rage, fuel cells etc.
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I have made them a few times for scouts, better ones were easy burning timber like leylandii, lime, willow so I would say DF perfect - cherry for example didn't really work. I put two cuts up to about 8 inch diameter log, 3 cuts for bigger. Depends how long they need to last I guess, you can light a new one easily by turning it over on top of a burning one. The way I cut them is laying down in a holder, just cut a vee out of a big log part way and notch at the end (I can photo if that makes no sense). Then use the tip end of a 25 inch bar so it's parallel to the grain. This way the teeth peel the wood out in long shards, which fall from the bar before they jam in the saw. I found this a lot quicker than standing the log up and ripping down the grain.
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Ran forward a metre to the fence? Must have been a few heartbeats missed there!
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If it's an edge tree did it dry out more last year?
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Stihl Chainsaw Problem: Choking under full throttle
Dan Maynard replied to ha2424's topic in Chainsaws
How new? If under warranty obviously take it back. I would do fuel filter, plug and air filter first just because they are cheap and easy to rule out. Also, does it do this straight away or only after a bit of work? -
Mine is badged Smart Holder, but it looks just like the Makita one. I've had it years, it seems now they are reselling in several places as it's like Stihl and Logosol. I'm not sure the two side bars is a big deal though, I feed the log in end on which knocks the previous stub off the teeth and lifts the little arm up as it goes. I rarely cut bits long enough to go through more than a log or two, they would be unwieldy so get cut in half on the pile.
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Yeah I know, in fact that tree also made me think I need to get into SRT.
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I like the idea, used it last week so thanks for the video.
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Maybe another line of attack if the puller is slipping is to machine up some washer parts which fit snug and then give the puller something to grip? Did this with a clutch years ago. Or can you weld studs or something on to the bearing housing so as to get purchase with a slide hammer?
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I did my rigging ticket last week, the other guy being assessed went up the tree first to install his TIP, as his rope was not long enough for him to drop down to the ground in one the assessor had us install a second line to allow me to ascend in the event he needed rescuing. My rope was a little longer and I put my TIP a little lower, that was ok so I did my cutting without a second line in. Its food for thought though, I've been deadwooding up trees with my 25m rope where I had to drop back down in 3 stages.
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I have a Smart Log holder, which is most similar to the 150kg version on Draper. It works really well for smaller logs which can skip about in a wooden horse. I do all the small ones picking and loading the log with my right hand whilst keeping hold of the saw in my left, saves a lot of bending to place and pick the saw. I really don't get that heavy duty one though, looks awful. It's a performance with the chain to load the log, the front legs slope up near to the cut, and are you really going to lift up a 300kg log to cut it? Anything above 25kg gets cut up exactly where it lays, no point busting your back on the log to make holding the saw easier. Or 6m long? Cut it in half. If I was buying again I would look at the one which clamps the saw, seems to save a lot of saw lifting but I reckon you need to have 2 saws with you or else you'd have to keep putting it in and out.
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The Makita petrol saws are really Dolmar as Makita bought the company, they have used the same as Husky bar mounts since at least the 70s as it is the same on my Sachs Dolmar. Dolmar saws have Dolmar branded bars on too. Not sure if the battery saws are from the same factory or not. DeWalt completely different situation but I would guess Oregon bars?
