outinthewood

If I remember correctly the 572 has three cover options, the one as standard out of the box is a very good cover with good clearance not as wide as the "wrap" option but wider than the standard as fitted to 365/372/385/390 and 575/576/570. To fit the same felling spikes as those just listed all you have to do is with a bit of care and about 1.5mins with a flap wheel on a angle grinder is flatten the ridge at the front of the standard 572 cover and fit either the small outer spike or change them for the bigger HD ones as shown on the 576. The "wrap" option shown for the 572 is a silver HD 390 cover which the factory have given a new lease of life ! All the models I've listed have the same mounting points.

Some years ago when I started milling (8+yrs) I found no real problem with a short bar i.e. 36" with my home made mill and then with my Logasol at that size then I moved upto a 60" bar on a 090 with the Logasol and found a bad "bow" downwards at first added a an extra steel tube across the frame and that was better but still not to my liking so re made my own mill and it was only ok. I was using just standard full chisel chain. Recently moved to a Panther double headed on 72" bar with Oregon Hyper skip chain and suprise I was getting a 5ish mm downward bow, did a little head scratching and started to play with the rakers and problem solved. Took them down a little more than I would have before. Most of my milling is to ready a stem for a large band saw so finish and to a small degree a bow if not too much is not the end of the world but if I was cutting for a" finished" slab I would use two rails for the first cut side by side to give the most support, think of felling- a 2" thick wedge is like 2' at the top of the tree so 2mm bend on the mill rails will soon become a bigger problem adding in bar flex etc on a milling cut.

Finally got around to fitting the winch and using it, makes life much easier on the double powerhead set up we have as it takes the guess work out of working "with" each other !!

It is on a small black plate under the front handle almost in line with the top of the rear of the clutch cover.... so follow up the two screws holding the front handle on to the fuel tank and you will just see it ! Is this the 560 you were going to take to the APF to get action from Husqvarna ...?

If we round the hrs up 400 thats 66 days at 6 hrs working a day ? When you look at it like that then no not a huge amount of work but 400 of say brashing then thats 400 hrs of tough work .

From what I've seen on the "web" it will come down to what "you" want as 462/572 is so close it will be what the buyer/user is used to ?

Just wondering how folk are getting on with their 572s ? I've had mine since July and have found it to be a great saw to the point that my ported saws are getting a rest ! As smooth as the 576 with much better power or should I say more constant power as the AT really is faster than the older version, oils better than the 576 which is pretty good anyway and starts first pull throughout the day. Be interested to hear other reports ?

I would be with the rest , no ! I had a workmate that used a 20Lt steel can and due to condesation it caused allsorts of problems and he was using that in at least 3 days so just store what you need i.e. I use 5-7 lts on average daily so only ever have two 5Lt in the back ready for use.

It depends on a lot, type of timber,location flat-dry etc, transportation to site and away and how many ton/cubic meters. How many different lenths to cut. I would strongly advise a "ton" rate !

Ah yes, I was thinkng if you started from scratch but as you say it's just a bolt on which is an extra so no problem. With a remote for the winch a very useful tool as described above !

Yes when you go past the basic ones and start looking at expanding tracks etc etc and the bigger winch units it starts to get expensive, but, they are CE approved so at least no insurance grey areas which I suspect working a self build in a setting other than working it on your own could be interesting ?

I had wondered the same myself until I saw the range of "iron horses" on youtube. Most of them are remote control for all functions and at a base unit at around 1500- 1800 kgs very easy to transport by trailer. 6000euro would buy you a good bit of gear or one of the German versions which are a good option for pulling edge stuff and are a good bit bigger and expensive.

Looks very good Rob ! I see one of Graham's Softracks in the background, they are clever guys ! A lot of what I'm doing is reducing in size for the Autotrek mill so this addition to the Panther may be very useful.

I see the young fella is already throwing weight around "Hey there's a high stump over there get it cut !!" pointing finger and all !! Glad to hear all is turned out alright and that the manufacturer is with you on the upgrades. I'm sure you have now found out playing nice is the path to happiness with the "Man" !

You must have come across a audit like that ? I suppose you would say it's ultimate audit ! all about keep the certification to allow the product to be sold in all markets. The sales to be done are picked out and a gang of "outsiders" arrive to see all done according to specs, any ground damage no water contamination etc etc. If ever you want to see the local team in a flustered state this is the time. I agree with you on the saving every bit of timber but we are allowed 20cm on windblow stumps by the book and the sale I was refering to had had a covering of light earth for maybe the first 2' and as you and I know we would normaly cut, allow to stand up then the rubbish has fallen off you can take a slice off .

I didn't make that clear ! lift and leave it ready to cut not hold and cut at the same time. Although it would be ok for us to have a machine hold a stem which was no matter what you did was going to fly you know when they are held up at a past balance point by the next root plate ? Did a sale couple of years ago which was to be subject to European audit so had no choice to cut as close as possible, ended up carrying a stiff brush and still wore out a new 28" chain in 2 days...nothing nice about it every other tree seemed to be set ready to do me ! Thankfully had a 1910 JD and 941/951 Komatsu to help .

I cut a large amount of blown sales and as a matter of course we cut far enough away from the stump to leave a usable lenth i.e. 3m+ if just firewood or pulp or 5.3ish to get a 4.9m that way you on the forwarder can lift the stump if you have to and then cut or on a short lenth it will prob stand it's self. So no problems with "buried " stump ends. Did a sale a few months ago where one side of the road was done just by harvester no sawman and it looked like a scene from the Somme ! It was a private wood and we did the remaining blow and the owner was not happy with the other contractor when he saw how we did it.

I've got 372/562/346 "G" option and no bother with them. Keep the switch clean i.e. spray a bit of WD40 type oil in and all ok I've found. As for not doing enough is the only reason for needing the G option, it is a matter of fact ( a German study I recall ? ) that even during summer turning them on for a little while is very good for the circulation which long term is a good thing ! So if I had my early days back again they would not be a waste of time... As said stood on spikes the best for you is the best you feel comfy with. I stopped climbing about 8 years ago but if I still was daily then a 562 would be a good choice. I was going add maybe the heater would not be a must have if you are climbing but how many times are you "hanging" around re rigging or for a traffic stop and I rethought that and it would be nice to warm up a bit when you start again ?

Have had a couple of 460s and have a 461 both good saws athough the air filter has always been a bit wanting when it comes to fines getting in ! nothing a smear of grease wont help. The AV is not as good as a sprung saw but that comes down to much you are using it ? A pal ( hotsaws101 youtube) has just run a 462 against a 440 after a bit of porting work and the 440 showed the 462 who's the boss if that tells us anything ... Again if it tells us anything no 462 at the WLC last week but a couple of 500i. You would be hard pushed to beat a 461 if you are going Stihl.

So "we" have an answer, when a quick restart all was ok but allowed to cool then the extra air was the problem and ultimate death as the AT did it's best to compensate for the air leak. Mucker thanks for that answer , I do recall seeing that advice in an old manual but never in a "5" manual ?

Ok, how did it come to have pin holes in the crankcase, did you ever get an answer ? I would suspect from what has been said and from ,I think a good assesment by spud, that something started to break up in the bottom end which caused the holes then the ultimate end of the saw ! The reason I ask about the fuel is that fuel left in a saw for a reasonable time will "go off" and will start to break down so when you start up next time you may be in effect starting up with a substance almost like un mixed fuel so at the most important time you are causing wear before the new mix travels around the system, I know you will most likley used the primer but the "bad " stuff is still in there doing damage ! It is well known the problems early 550/560 suffered and indeed talking to any dealers I frequent it was not helped by "cheap" oil and when lads started to use fully synth oil it helped a great deal. About four maybe five years ago I noticed in the Husqvarna catalouge that XP oil should be "used in all saws above 55cc" in my owners book for the 572 it states that XP or an equal quality oil should be used. My main point is "we" don't seem to know why it happened which in my book is more important than giving out about it ? I'm on my 4th 550, 2 had to be rebuilt- 2nd 560 , 1 rebuilt twice all at Husqvarnas cost with out any problem and all pre 2014 so I come from a position of having been there and done that and bought several teeshirts !!

Have read through these posts and have a quick question, if the saw was used on an irregular basis was the fuel drained after use and fresh fuel used on the next bout of cutting ? Would like to know where the 33.1 advice was originaly found ?

I've only worked for the NI part of the FC and found them decent and easy to work for. I always take the approach when working for a new area harvest manager impress on them that you and your team are there to work with them not against them and that you will ask if you come across a problem and not just "assume" it was ok to proceed. Make sure all the gear is correct i.e. upto date first aid kits and fire ex etc Silly things like that broken step on the forwarder and the likes of a missing chain catcher is always a bad start, you know the things that are 5 min jobs but just seem to become invisable !

Have a look on ebay Germany which is where I got my last one ( NOS) be prepared to see them missing the portion over the exhaust as they nearly all are that way ! I can tell you from having had many a burn on my trousers etc !!

Yes I'd be interested in what starting problems you have had with the 572 ? We are having the hottest spell for 40 years and got my 572 just in time for the hottest part and it never failed to start in fact one of the best starters I have had ! What was the issues with the 3 Husqvarnas you had "fail" ?