outinthewood

If we round the hrs up 400 thats 66 days at 6 hrs working a day ? When you look at it like that then no not a huge amount of work but 400 of say brashing then thats 400 hrs of tough work .

From what I've seen on the "web" it will come down to what "you" want as 462/572 is so close it will be what the buyer/user is used to ?

Just wondering how folk are getting on with their 572s ? I've had mine since July and have found it to be a great saw to the point that my ported saws are getting a rest ! As smooth as the 576 with much better power or should I say more constant power as the AT really is faster than the older version, oils better than the 576 which is pretty good anyway and starts first pull throughout the day. Be interested to hear other reports ?

I would be with the rest , no ! I had a workmate that used a 20Lt steel can and due to condesation it caused allsorts of problems and he was using that in at least 3 days so just store what you need i.e. I use 5-7 lts on average daily so only ever have two 5Lt in the back ready for use.

It depends on a lot, type of timber,location flat-dry etc, transportation to site and away and how many ton/cubic meters. How many different lenths to cut. I would strongly advise a "ton" rate !

Ah yes, I was thinkng if you started from scratch but as you say it's just a bolt on which is an extra so no problem. With a remote for the winch a very useful tool as described above !

Yes when you go past the basic ones and start looking at expanding tracks etc etc and the bigger winch units it starts to get expensive, but, they are CE approved so at least no insurance grey areas which I suspect working a self build in a setting other than working it on your own could be interesting ?

I had wondered the same myself until I saw the range of "iron horses" on youtube. Most of them are remote control for all functions and at a base unit at around 1500- 1800 kgs very easy to transport by trailer. 6000euro would buy you a good bit of gear or one of the German versions which are a good option for pulling edge stuff and are a good bit bigger and expensive.

Looks very good Rob ! I see one of Graham's Softracks in the background, they are clever guys ! A lot of what I'm doing is reducing in size for the Autotrek mill so this addition to the Panther may be very useful.

I've got 372/562/346 "G" option and no bother with them. Keep the switch clean i.e. spray a bit of WD40 type oil in and all ok I've found. As for not doing enough is the only reason for needing the G option, it is a matter of fact ( a German study I recall ? ) that even during summer turning them on for a little while is very good for the circulation which long term is a good thing ! So if I had my early days back again they would not be a waste of time... As said stood on spikes the best for you is the best you feel comfy with. I stopped climbing about 8 years ago but if I still was daily then a 562 would be a good choice. I was going add maybe the heater would not be a must have if you are climbing but how many times are you "hanging" around re rigging or for a traffic stop and I rethought that and it would be nice to warm up a bit when you start again ?

Have had a couple of 460s and have a 461 both good saws athough the air filter has always been a bit wanting when it comes to fines getting in ! nothing a smear of grease wont help. The AV is not as good as a sprung saw but that comes down to much you are using it ? A pal ( hotsaws101 youtube) has just run a 462 against a 440 after a bit of porting work and the 440 showed the 462 who's the boss if that tells us anything ... Again if it tells us anything no 462 at the WLC last week but a couple of 500i. You would be hard pushed to beat a 461 if you are going Stihl.

So "we" have an answer, when a quick restart all was ok but allowed to cool then the extra air was the problem and ultimate death as the AT did it's best to compensate for the air leak. Mucker thanks for that answer , I do recall seeing that advice in an old manual but never in a "5" manual ?

Ok, how did it come to have pin holes in the crankcase, did you ever get an answer ? I would suspect from what has been said and from ,I think a good assesment by spud, that something started to break up in the bottom end which caused the holes then the ultimate end of the saw ! The reason I ask about the fuel is that fuel left in a saw for a reasonable time will "go off" and will start to break down so when you start up next time you may be in effect starting up with a substance almost like un mixed fuel so at the most important time you are causing wear before the new mix travels around the system, I know you will most likley used the primer but the "bad " stuff is still in there doing damage ! It is well known the problems early 550/560 suffered and indeed talking to any dealers I frequent it was not helped by "cheap" oil and when lads started to use fully synth oil it helped a great deal. About four maybe five years ago I noticed in the Husqvarna catalouge that XP oil should be "used in all saws above 55cc" in my owners book for the 572 it states that XP or an equal quality oil should be used. My main point is "we" don't seem to know why it happened which in my book is more important than giving out about it ? I'm on my 4th 550, 2 had to be rebuilt- 2nd 560 , 1 rebuilt twice all at Husqvarnas cost with out any problem and all pre 2014 so I come from a position of having been there and done that and bought several teeshirts !!

Have read through these posts and have a quick question, if the saw was used on an irregular basis was the fuel drained after use and fresh fuel used on the next bout of cutting ? Would like to know where the 33.1 advice was originaly found ?

Have a look on ebay Germany which is where I got my last one ( NOS) be prepared to see them missing the portion over the exhaust as they nearly all are that way ! I can tell you from having had many a burn on my trousers etc !!

Yes I'd be interested in what starting problems you have had with the 572 ? We are having the hottest spell for 40 years and got my 572 just in time for the hottest part and it never failed to start in fact one of the best starters I have had ! What was the issues with the 3 Husqvarnas you had "fail" ?

This is why as a rule of thumb you will find 7/8 DL's free at the end of the bar to allow mounting and required clearance of sprocket. It varies from saw to saw i.e. 3/8 20" 72 Dls is the same for Husvarna and Stihl but 18" and 28" is not the same !

Thanks for that, they are about half the price of the Extremes so worth a look I thought !

Anyone using the Canopy Airs ? if so how are they wearing and how are they size wise i.e. is a medium really 32"-34" or should you go for size bigger or indeed smaller ? I use Husqvarna Tech Extreme and get a good year out of them but the SIPs look ok ?

Mr D you have managed to capture all the major points to running and care of a chainsaw and in particular with regards to the 550 ( and it's bigger brothers !). I travel around the whole country working and make a point of calling in to the "local" Husqvarna dealer and have found that oil and lack of cleaning is the 550/560 biggest problem so as much as there are 5s out there with problems much of them are "operator error" I look at replacing any small saw like the 550 after a year of forest work although my last couple of 550s have done more than that with no problems. Very good post Mr D !

I have a 750 K chopsaw lying around and although it has a "bigger" air filter it would seem to me that compared to my HD filter equiped 372s the Ks filter is much more retrictive to stop the dust and and metal particles that they - the cutoff saw- would encounter. So for a faster reving chainsaw the filter system from a "K" may be a backward step i.e. not enough air flow ? Interesting that Husqvarna whilst offering a option for several saws to have a HD filter upgrade, 281/288, 272, 371/372 etc no option for the 3120 which maybe has something to do with after the first couple of years did they not move to a fixed H jet ? Do you remember the early 3120s had no choke just a primer bulb. Im sure someone will be along to put me right !

I think you , Stubby, are dead on and looking at the pics that is a "bitsa" the love child of consaw and 3120 !

To be fair to Rich Radogan aka Sawking aka The Chainsaw Guy he has been around for a long time and is pretty much behind the term "Muscle Saw " he knows his stuff but like all things internet he has his fans and slaggers.. He seemed to retire just a few months ago but now is still pumping out the "West Coast Saws" and only doing online sales . He runs a shop in tough "logging" country so I would say if he was a flake then I don't suppose he woud still be around .....? He was ahead of the game on using the net to market himself .

I recall the last posting of this from Blount and would interested to hear from anyone who did indeed test any products and how did the testing go and the results...

I would agree on the comments on 8 tooth rims if you have a UK spec saw - so very restricted exhaust and small air filter- up them to Nth American spec and they spin up a lot better. They have pretty much become my first choice for wind blown sales and I cut a lot of that !