outinthewood

Yes I'd be interested in what starting problems you have had with the 572 ? We are having the hottest spell for 40 years and got my 572 just in time for the hottest part and it never failed to start in fact one of the best starters I have had ! What was the issues with the 3 Husqvarnas you had "fail" ?

This is why as a rule of thumb you will find 7/8 DL's free at the end of the bar to allow mounting and required clearance of sprocket. It varies from saw to saw i.e. 3/8 20" 72 Dls is the same for Husvarna and Stihl but 18" and 28" is not the same !

Thanks for that, they are about half the price of the Extremes so worth a look I thought !

Anyone using the Canopy Airs ? if so how are they wearing and how are they size wise i.e. is a medium really 32"-34" or should you go for size bigger or indeed smaller ? I use Husqvarna Tech Extreme and get a good year out of them but the SIPs look ok ?

Mr D you have managed to capture all the major points to running and care of a chainsaw and in particular with regards to the 550 ( and it's bigger brothers !). I travel around the whole country working and make a point of calling in to the "local" Husqvarna dealer and have found that oil and lack of cleaning is the 550/560 biggest problem so as much as there are 5s out there with problems much of them are "operator error" I look at replacing any small saw like the 550 after a year of forest work although my last couple of 550s have done more than that with no problems. Very good post Mr D !

I have a 750 K chopsaw lying around and although it has a "bigger" air filter it would seem to me that compared to my HD filter equiped 372s the Ks filter is much more retrictive to stop the dust and and metal particles that they - the cutoff saw- would encounter. So for a faster reving chainsaw the filter system from a "K" may be a backward step i.e. not enough air flow ? Interesting that Husqvarna whilst offering a option for several saws to have a HD filter upgrade, 281/288, 272, 371/372 etc no option for the 3120 which maybe has something to do with after the first couple of years did they not move to a fixed H jet ? Do you remember the early 3120s had no choke just a primer bulb. Im sure someone will be along to put me right !

I think you , Stubby, are dead on and looking at the pics that is a "bitsa" the love child of consaw and 3120 !

To be fair to Rich Radogan aka Sawking aka The Chainsaw Guy he has been around for a long time and is pretty much behind the term "Muscle Saw " he knows his stuff but like all things internet he has his fans and slaggers.. He seemed to retire just a few months ago but now is still pumping out the "West Coast Saws" and only doing online sales . He runs a shop in tough "logging" country so I would say if he was a flake then I don't suppose he woud still be around .....? He was ahead of the game on using the net to market himself .

I recall the last posting of this from Blount and would interested to hear from anyone who did indeed test any products and how did the testing go and the results...

I would agree on the comments on 8 tooth rims if you have a UK spec saw - so very restricted exhaust and small air filter- up them to Nth American spec and they spin up a lot better. They have pretty much become my first choice for wind blown sales and I cut a lot of that !

Correct, it stops to much movement and if the spring fails also stops the saw failing altogether ! i.e. breaking any other springs. I've only broken one mount, the one above the fuel tank and that was due to operator error me ! I have two 576s and both have done a fair bit of work with no problem and run 8 tooth rims upto 24" with no problem.

I'm taking it that your bar is a Husqvarna "badged" oregon power match ? so Rob can supply a oregon tip that will fit. A very easy job, just one rivet to knock out just be sure to use a good solid base and have the bar flat as you peen over the new rivet. I tend to go through a few tips as a lot of my cutting is big nasty spruce with tip destroying tension built in ! more so after a harvester driver has had a go and rolled the tree around like a croc rolling a hippo carcass ! Oregon do replacement nose kits for their lam bars but I don't know anyone doing one.

Ok it is a 2013 bottom end and has the short version which is bolted up to a older 75cc top end. The 576 has two lenths of securing bolt not sure about 372s , have a look at the IPLs again ?

My" 375"XP has the short version on its Walbro carb, but I'll check when I've had tea and gone back in if it is the XT case as I'm not sure. The guy that built it for me used some XT stuff handle etc

Morning Rob, just having a break and saw your post. It was the first thought - drilling through the plate - but the problem is the 2" dia mounting on the bottom of the post. It's a great mount and we don't want to hack it to bits and have to do away with the magnet. You only really need one PH to move so I have a little plan which I'll have a stab at this weekend. Feel free to move the other couple of videos I posted on my youtube -outintewood- here if you like Rob.

Good evening Rob, use it as you like - it's a great product. I've posted another couple of videos since that, a nice Beech and a very nice Cedar. The Hyperskip really is a big help and as you say it allows you to control whats going on not like a "normal" chain ! The only niggle I have to sort out is the problem of using a front tension system i.e. 090 or my 2101 XP but I think I may have a cunning plan ! Bear in mind I've been playing with the 576 XPs with 8 pin rims which the Hyperskip allows.

I'm sure you have ,but, the oiler is set to max flow ? checked the filter in the oil tank and there is a good flow at running speed from the oil pump ? The 084 is pretty good oiler and they have no problem running a 60" standard so a extra 4" shouldn't be a big deal. If it's a new chain it could just be that in common with a lot of milling "kits" the DL count is given as a cover for a couple of models and maybe not an oiling problem just an extra link too many for your 084 ? As a rule of thumb one DL is around 1/2" of chain so be a little careful knocking them out, you should have 7/8 free links free at the end of the bar . I say 7/8 since Husqvarna and Stihl do vary a bit due how far the bar studs are from the sprocket. I'm trying two 576 XPs on a 72" bar and no problems so a 084 should almost wash a 60" !

At last got our Panther together, minus the winch !, and did a quick run just to see how it all went and very pleased ! The Hyper skip is a great chain and as an experiment ran the 72" with 2x 576 XPs with 8 pin rims in a very knotty bit of Pine and it was a good job. I uploaded a video to my Youtube channel- outinthewood- my signal is pretty basic so if anyone wants to drag it here feel free !

No I don't think Rob is a smug guy ,but, sometimes a re-read is handy before you post ! I've never met Mr D in person but have spoken to him many times and bought a bit of gear from him and he is a gentleman which is why I thought his first post to the OP was a little odd and not the way I would have expected him to react. Rob with regards to the Panther I will let you know when we have got it 100% set up and it's nothing bad just a couple of things which like all new gear have un-expected niggles !

Good evening Mr Rob D , I have to say that is a pretty smug post ! I'm not taking anyones side or blaming anyone for lack of oil and would have to say that in most cases of lack of oil it is down to operator error... however as the sole agent for Sugi bars I would have expected a little more customer service not customer slapdown ? I have found that Sugi bar tips are very brittle but thats just the way they are so don't buy any more, you don't make them you just import them. I would have thought education would be better than telling us how much you sell ? I'll be doing a little video on the Panther I just got from you and I do hope you take the small points I raise with a little more grace .....

If it's something you think you will get good use out of then why not ? I've been getting saws from the USA and Canada for over 7 years now and as long as you realise that you may have to pay some tax and duty then anything else is a bounus ! Over here we have a fairly strict system, package arrives is straight into customs at the postal HQ and if it is over 150 euros then you are charged a very small import duty and then VAT on the purchase and postage cost and you pay the postman on delivery. My first saw over 7 years ago had me getting a "clearing" agent which cost £60 ( we still had £'s then ) plus the costs ! thankfully the system has become much more customer friendly ! The only saw I ever lost was from the UK and did have one go missing for a few days last year but it made it through so instead of the normal 4/6 days for a saw it took nearly two weeks that was a little worrying on something that cost "150 euros" .......

I'll just say that the question is "big saws on the market" not still in production for us in Europe..... so if you really,really need that power etc then find yourself a 090 and if you really, really, really just must have that power then a 090 G with a proper 090 top end ( G's came with the 107cc as standard). I can't see anyone here or pretty much anywhere other than a rainforest where you are felling "Big" hardwoods that needs that amount of bulk to lug around when a 661-395 or their older stablemates will not do the job ? Get them ported and away you go, I have a 3120,084, 2x090, 090G and a Contra S and I dont even get them out for anything other than milling and even then 2x 2101 on a double ended bar is an easier job !

In that case just go on to Ebay, there is a guy who sells the falling spikes you want I cannot remember full details except I had done a general search for Husqvarna parts. He is USA based but probably as quick as ordering from UK. His price was good no rip off. I find it very strange that a part for a saw -562- is not avalible from your local dealer as the saw is in the local line up ?

Did the part number I looked up for you not work ??? It is very easy go to the local dealer and order the parts, you are only in Holland not the far side of the moon !

I'm suprised no one has come in with the old "if it was sharp you don't need spikes " comment which is to an extent true, any "older" members will rember when anything upto 60cc ish would just have a bumper fitted - didn't the 630 come with both a bumper and small felling spike ? Anyway, yes a good not over large set are helpful more so on rough ground where just staying on your feet is hard work and you can let the saw do it's thing. You do lose a bit on the bar but just go up a bit i.e. 22" instead of 20". By the way yes you can get an outer spike for the 560 just as already said.