outinthewood

Who said anything about flooding ? I find that a lot of folk are "afraid" of Autotune/Mtronic it is as you said a carb that can get dirty and can be cleaned and the basic things are overlooked. There are a couple of extra wires and no needles that can be adjusted to see whats going on. I had assumed from what the OP had said he had checked the basic stuff and he made no referance to flooding, perhaps I should have said damp instead of wet in other words proof of fuel . I'm not 100% sure but the way they are wired can mean a spark but the fuel valve is not doing it's part, I'm sure a dealer can wade in on that ? In my 30 odd years of running saws as my job I sometimes forget to state everything and some of it is still in the brain not printed out !

I have run and owned three 550's a great saw that can do some odd things, Just asking the plain basic- the plug is wet but still not starting ? all the wiring harness is connected and not damaged ? I don't know if there is a way of checking the fuel valve without pluging it in to the workshop software ? There is a magnet below the "Needles" which can pick up bits of debris which can cause problems but not sure on starting. When I've done the big clean I have had a no start - dash a little fuel- not carb cleaner- over the air filter and away they go. As already said they are a carb after all, you can still strip them and clean it's just they dont have needles as we know !

Adw and myself forgot to mention mind you do not damage the spring steel cover on the face of the bar mount, there is a couple of "wings" that help hold the studs in place, or in this case not so well ! I take the plate off and place large washers to spread the load on the ally surface.

Get a magnetic pickup tool and fish around or empty oil tank give a slosh around with mix and thay should reappear. The tank is sort of "L" shaped and they could/should be at the bottom behind the oil pipe. The magnetic pickup tool is very handy for re-seating them. Arm yourself with a couple of nuts that will fit over the studs and use them as a spacer to pull them back into seat.

It was bothering me that I was incorrect on the inner spike removal so just had a quick look at my 394 and you can get at the bottom bolt but would be some job to get at the top one ! I've done it a couple of times over the years but it would appear not on a 394 !!

I'm assuming you are saying that after removing the side cover you can not reach the two Allen type bolts ? then move on to steps two and if required 3. Step two is not as easy as it sounds you have to be fairly firm getting the rear stud out and you may slighty burr the stud but power head- stud argument I'd sooner replace a stud !! Step 3 is really a last resort as anyone knows pushing a "stud" back in is not ideal I run a 394 which is a fine ported saw,have run a couple of 395's stock and good saws. I looked / handled a 661 and thought the spring mounts were a little soft but I would assume that like the 441 a "hard" set are avalible ?

Well since you stand to be be corrected I may as well do that ! If you have managed to get the inboard clutch saw, in this case a 395, stuck solid which we all have then the first thing is to remove the inner felling spike which gives you enough room to wriggle the PH out but if that is still not doing the trick then move the saw around and free the rear bar stud out of the bar groove which should give even the most trapped saw free ! Now if you still have a problem then maybe someone else should have been doing the job but in the 395's case the bar studs are a push fit in through the oil tank and are also held in place by the bar wear plate which is spring steel and has a couple of "wings" which hold against the bar studs, give the end of the stud a sharp tap to push them into the oil tank and now you have it ! I have had to do the inner spike job on a out board clutch... just the one time so yes it's quicker but not the end of the world.

The 395 looks well, I've not run a 575 but have a couple of 576 and they have to be the smoothest saws on the market if in standard euro spec a rather dull saw.. Gut the muffler and add a HD filter and it's a good saw.

I run 22" in small/med windblow and as the actress said to the bishop - every inch counts - It's no big deal asking for a 77 dl chain if you have a saw shop near ? or if you make your own chain. When you have used a 22 it almost makes a 20 redundant well in my line anyway !

I'd still go for a well zipped 372 XPW i.e. a genuine 75cc top end but thats me ! My 562's are going well and as I have said many times although the specs are the same on paper the 562 just seems to run better / stronger ? either way nice to see them avalible in UK. As for the 572, it looks like it should be worth the wait till Feb 18 and just as important the new C 85 chain which looks very good !

You could go that route but the cost of finding a mint genuine 372 XPW ? I would go for a dead XPW and have it ported. Of course I mean new top end etc !!

Thanks Elliot, finding a genuine 372 XPW could be hard..only sold in US and Canada for a shortish time and a lot of stickers saying XPW ! Around 8ish years ago the 375 was sold for a very short time and there was some 372 World Champion models sold. The 372 had the wording in red. As you know my 375 is a custom made saw only the "decal" is genuine ! and it certainly out performs any "real" 375 out there ! Your first step should be a North American spec muffler with 2nd or indeed 3rd "port" using 266 or 288 deflectors and you will be pleased with the result after giving the high screw a bit more fuel.

A couple of pics of my main worksaws, "375 XP" 372 XPG then just so they don't feel left out 576 XP, 385 Xp , 288 XP and 562 XPG. The 288 and 576 are just MM'd the rest ported by Hotsaws 101. I first started using the full wrap around 5/6 years ago when I got my first saw from Jack Beelar ( 372 XPW) and now wonder why more lads don't use them If I'm doing smaller stuff and want a very low stump then yes I use a " normal " saw !