trigger_andy

I sold the 'Gas Guzzling' yank. I did less than 100 miles a year in it and averaged over 20mpg. It was build 50 years ago and is significantly better for the environment than scrapping it and buying a new car, be it petrol, diesel or electric, mainly because of the huge carbon footprint involved in the manufacture and shipping of a new car and all its components. What's the carbon footprint of ... a new car? | Environment | The Guardian WWW.THEGUARDIAN.COM Making a new car creates as much carbon pollution as driving it, so it's often bettrer to keep your old banger on the road... I never said we should cut down on needlessly drilling for oil though, I said we should cut down on the needless use of oil. If the current lack of HVG Drivers means we end up shopping local, and buying more locally (even within the UK) then I see that as a positive. If we have to rely less on china for their junk then I see that as a positive. If we end up shipping less and less out of season produce around the world because we fancy an Avocado any time we feel like one I see that as a positive. So yes, as per usual you missed something

I fully understand we need to reduce our dependence on oil, but I dont not think we'll ever not need to produce it. Id sooner drill for more oil than cut down vast swathes of the worlds rain Forrest to make bio oil. I also can see the damage shipping vast amounts of needless junk around the world causes. Im my opinion there is nothing hypocritical in understanding we have a need for oil yet wish to lessen how much we use needlessly. There is very few 'greens' calling for an outright end to oil production. The people who I would call hypocritical are those who are calling for the end to oil production yet use the product in their daily lives. PS, why do you always end your posts with a K? Its not like we cant see your name in the top left hand of your post.

That will do the job well enough. Its at the cheaper end of the scale though so will potentially not be as accurate as a high end model at £200-£400. For a start it does not seem to have any clamp to hold the chain when the grinder is down so there will be a little play which will result in a little bit of inaccuracy. Will be more accurate than your Granberg and certainly better than your hand filing. Just turn the dial til you're sitting at 10 degrees instead of 30. Amazon.com WWW.AMAZON.COM This is one of two we have in the workshop. We have an older model, but basically the same.

No

Sounds good.

Good man! That’s gonna upset Markie though, he’s permanently a glass half full guy. How dare people see something positive in his constant one-man vitriol against the Tory Party.

Great news! Less Chinese Junk, less road pollution, smaller carbon footprint from shipping everything all over the world. Maybe we’ll now be forced to shop local and produce local instead of taking the cheap and easy option of dirty, and polluting one.

Get your missus to sell it?

Yes

I thought that guy got banned?

Honestly, just keep things simple. You’re really not going to notice much if any difference playing around with all the angles and depths. It’s certainly not worth it for milling Larch Cladding. When you’ve 10 years under your belt like Saul and have mastered the basics then by all means play around but til then I just don’t see the point. I’ve miles some fairly large logs with my 60” Panther and all my chains are at 10 degrees and I’m very happy with the finish.

Like you you mean?

Ah well, no point in getting wound up about it.

Sounds good.

They are great if used correctly. I’ve yet to have an issue with mine. But as I’ve mentioned before, I only use it in the field if I’ve hit a foreign object.

Oh cool, that certainly makes more sense. I like easy, so Id stick with the advice and go for that.

Totally, its highly important when Milling. Once you start to run off when Milling you've buggered not just one but two boards. Id use the 661 and not the 241 personally. Ive never milled 12" logs with an Alaskan though, so maybe something small will be ok for that? Little logs like that go on my Bandsaw.

There is some far more knowledgeable guys here than me and Im sure they can more fully appreciate what you're referring to here. Some like to custom grind their teeth to suit the wood they are milling, some like to set the teeth at zero degree's and some find that 10 degrees for all the teeth work just fine. Personally I just leave them at 10 degrees and Im happy with that. When you say 5 degrees for some and 20 for the others I assume you're not taking about in the same chain, right? If so Im a bit lost as to what you're referring to. Yes, you really need to learn how to hand sharpen, its relatively easy and quick once you get some muscle memory built into your hands. Im not sure what the other tool you're referring to but a fairly good bench chain grinder is also a good investment. Get yourself 2-3 chains, sharpen them all before the start of the day and you can then quickly rotate them after you've given them a few hand sharpens during the day. Then at the end of play square them all up on the bench grinder ready for next time. The Grandberg really comes into its own when you're out in the sticks and hit metal, especially on a 36" or longer chain and need to re-dress it. Just add a set of Verniers to your wee kit bag.

Ive not seen any of the video's, Ive always just followed the instructions that I posted above. Ive never tried the bolt and nut idea and it seems pointless to me. Yeh, get a £10 Vernier, handy for all sorts of things apart from measuring tooth lengths. I have a good set but then Im given them from work. If one set of teeth are longer than the other then only that side is fully engaging with the log and the chain will be biting on that side pulling the chain and therefore the Mill in that direction. Another good habit to get into is checking your bar condition and keeping it in rotation. You need to 'dress' your bar regularly as well. A badly worn bar thats not had any maintenance can cause you to wander as well. If the grove is too wide your chains gonna flop around in there and wander in the direction it choses. You do have a Guide Bar Dressing Tool, right? Milling is hard on your equipment, if you dont have the correct 'service' equipment and service intervals you're gonna keep running into the problems you're having. And yes, Id say your Saw is too small for the work you're expecting of it. When you kill it you can invest in something more suitable for Milling.

The Precision Grinder when used correctly gets the teeth razor sharp. But when you have what looks like a rounded over leading edge like in your pic then just taking a 'kiss' off the tooth is not gonna do anything. For such a small chain Id only use the Precision Grinder if I'd have hit metal, its simply not needed for a quick re-sharpen. But with your chain as blunt as it looks then try taking a bit more meat off the tooth with the Precision Grinder and then make sure you're taking the same off the other side with a vernier caliper. Once you're all square again then when you empty the tank of fuel or two give the chain a few licks with a hand file. Just count how many you give each tooth and make sure they all get the same. Then every few sharpens check the rakers with your Depth Gauge, you do have one, right? As for the sap, a screwdriver or better yet the file you have for taking down the rakers will soon get rid of that.

I think its just the Op making it a thing as its his fetish.

You should also remove all the burned on sap off of the top of the cutters each time you sharpen as well. Thats not gonna help your cutting at all You're pushing the cutting edge away from the Log you're milling and just generating more and more heat.

Hello and welcome. The main issue with the Granberg Grinder is when you grind one set of teeth at say 10 degree's (or 30 if cross cutting) is you cant always just swing the Grinder from one set of 10 degrees to the opposite and expect the cutters to be the exact same length. So when I use it I do one set of teeth then swing it around for the other set of Teeth, grind the first tooth then measure with a vernier caliper then adjust the Granberg Precision Grinder to suit. See step 5 in the picture below; Its not easy to see in your picture of the chain, but to me it looks blunt. I see you've taken the rakers down, but its hard to see if you've taken them down to the correct depth. In the Granberg Instruction manual it shows you how to set the Percision Grinde up to take the rakers down and how many 'clicks' of the height dial and setting the cutting angle to 0 degree's. You can use this in conjunction with a depth gauge or follow the instructions in the instruction manual, Ive added the section in the secon picture, the section is called 'Jointing depth gauges'

Do it. Might take 3 times as long but Also got to be worth a load more money if it works. Maybe not worth busting the machine over though I’d certainly not do enough logs to build a cabin. Just another three dumpy logs to see how oak handles the profiling. But being just 1.5m long it would not give a true reflection of the full 4.7m lengths, so most likely just a waste of time. It’s not like I don’t have enough to get on with as it is. 😁