drinksloe

Is that the dent puller type wedges (well really a pincher) aye only a 1/2T lift like u say. I've just bought a ram/dent puller set and while looking for the best set i noticed some jacks that fit on the ram, some went up to some big wieghts 20+T, i think they were compatable with sealey hydralics. I've never used them but guessing designed for presses or lifting heavy engineering pieces Possibly they might work better than a bottle jack, same principle and u'd still have to cut a square out at the back to fit them in.

Cheers inoff. I know its hard to give proper advice when its so vague and forestry/arb is such a wide industry To be honest i don't know of any other company doing something similar and even after buying the machine it will have to be heavily adapted to suit wot i want it to do (but hopefully my designs in my head it should be 'modular'?? so easily converted back) for more normal work To be honest i've struggled to find the right donor machine to start with but think i may be o the right track now. Also the customising will need some proper engineering so its trying to get a rough price without wasting too much of the welders time. Still a bit of head scracthing to do that even about tthe design and costs as well as other costs It is quite a small niche market but i do think it might be there, i'll be meeting a few big landowners shortly so will run the idea past them, as there my target market. Was hoping there was going to be some easy answer (x% of investment per day/year??) so i could go to the landowners with a ball park figure. I know 1 quite well who's a really decent bloke and also quite well connected, i'll bounce a few ideas of him and see wot happens

Alright Just looking for a bit of advice, lately been heavily thinking about a change/pipe dream, which would involve a big capital investment but i do think there is the work possibly just wether the money/returns are there to justify it. Up till now any investments have just been new saws/vans/pick ups etc as i just work as a hand cutter/femcer (but to be fair quite happy doing it) So big money inestments are all new to me really Just reading another thread recently and thinking mibee time to man up and have a go, as i have been thinking about it for a while now. If u were going to invest say £50K in a new machine and its attachments, wot sort of ball park return would u like/need to see off it (only real overhead be 1 man operating, althou plus decent pick up trailer to move it) either day rate or annually. A lot of the work would be on a day rate basis. How many years would u be expecting to get ur money back over to replace it? Or how much of the profits would u be setting aside, so not really profits? Have heard some smaller forestry machine boys moan they think they are doing great with money in the bank then its time to replace a machine and there back to where they started To make the risk worth it u'd need to be turning over some serious ammounts of money the way i'm seeing it the now. Esp coming from a relatively low turnover but also low expenses so a large % of wot u make is profit, i'm guessing i'd have to turnover2/3 times wot i do now to take home the same wage and pay for wear/tear and replacing machine/trailers/pick ups etc Would the % or figures change from an owner operator compared to a machine operated by an employee or even worse hired out self drive? (Due to fact not been looked after as well)

U can get solid rear doors on ifors now as well as locking and gas rams. Some of the other makers tin canopies look far better made too. I have been looking recently too and the look of both Gamic and T&N Aluminium both looked really good canopies, slightly dearer than standard basic ifors, but cheaper than a comparison canopy from ifor My old canopy is an ifor ansd i just lined the door with some ply, keeps everything mice a dry inside and no one can see in either

It will really depend on the age off the pick up ur looking at. Like a lot of things/tools/saws/tractors many folk have there favourite brand and struggle to see past them, while the next man will call them scrap. I think most of the newer pick ups are beginning to iron out any faults there older versions had (old 02-06 L200's terrible soft heads, ur D22 navara con rods going throu engine) both were serious problems but so serious not likely to be many left on road. If ur buying 2nd hand it might depend more on the life the pick up's had previously, price than the brand I've had fancier colour coded fibre glass tops in past, now i reckon ur basic iffor is bad to beat. Most of ur fibre glass tops are 1K plus, some a lot more, and pretty insecure with all the glass. U can buy a brand new ifor for 500, althou some other companies aremaking some very good versions (Gamic, N&J Aluminimum) bit dearer than the basic ifor but they come with solid locking back doors and gas rams so when u add in the ifor extras are actually cheaper. I spray them myself now to get them colour coded to pick up really does iprove the 'look' massively. Plus ur metal lids are easier to take on/off as u don't need to worry about scratching/bashing them the same The above looks a cracking cover but at 2K plus its a lot of money Some very good drawer/storage solution for in the back now too, althou quite pricey. In the past i often shelf across the wheel arches with timber to get tools/waterproofs etc in below the load space. Definately frees up a lot of space. otherwise there quite ackward to load andwot ever u need is always at the bottom/back and a mission to climb over every thing to get it.

That is the boring but correct answer. No good shooting with great pellets for ur mates gun if ur's doesn't like them. For the OP i'd just stick with a 177 springer, cheap and cheerful get plenty prasctice in first, learn ur ranges and how to estimate them in field conditions and know ur drops etc, get confident before u go anywhere near live quarry. Learn a bit of field craft, wind, cover, moving slow etc using lamps/filters or full moons. U can knock decent numbers of rabbits off if u know wot ur doing with an airgun. Decent meat too, good for burgers If u want to go onto PCP's or FAC's from there go for it but once u start u can spend a lot of money quickly esp if u devolp a taste for vension in ur freezer

I have to admit i was always a 22 man. But stumpygrinder has it bang on really, generally speaking inthe past a.177 was reguarded better for fur and the 22 for feather. Really with both rifles u need to be hitting head shots and that should be easier at more ranges because of the flatter 177 trajectory. If ur just beginning i'd go for a springer, PCP's are far superior BUT expensive and a bit of a faff recharging/air bottles etc. I know i have had an empty FAC ir slot now for quite a few years, every time i price them up all the bottles/hassle scares me off. Really like most things in life its wot u do with it, if u practise tilll ur a very good shot u will shoot more/further than someone who doesnae practice even if they have better kit. For dusk/dawn/full moon rabbits i find an Illuminated Retice in the scope brilliant and wouldn't go back now, but i wouldn't spend muuch on a scope for an airgun 50-80 quid will be plenty (or 120ish for IR) Graham u do get a few 20 and .25's when u get up to FAC but still not that common

Really a lot will depend on if its ur wood and if a public footpath. Diverting the track might be the easiest temp measure With the trees depending how they are lying u may be able to cut 1 of the leaning trees in such a way it will 'pull'/roll of of the tree its held on, depending on the exact situ. Otherwise it will be a winch/tirfor job to pull the leaning trees over safely 1st. Wot ever u do u really do not want to be cutting at a base of a tree (esp a dead cracked tree) with 2 trees hung up in it, the stem itself go go anywhere plus high chance of random branches (widow makers) falling on top off u. As has been said winblown (even when fully on deck) and hung up trees can be a nightmare even for experienced cutters

So did i !! It seems to be when u stop it unwinds for some reason? I tend to walk about with it always spinning with a tiny bit of throttle. Not ideal. Really beginning to annoy me now as being doing it for years (i generally don't do a load of strimming or chose a blade) Timon its still the factory winding how it came out the packet, no idea if to tight orn not thou, doesn't seem tight thou. I suspect its something to do with the spring? or something holding it down as it never seems to have any give/spring in it. At moment can't even get it apart and scared to force it too much (yesterday is was almost getting forced apart into a milion pieces with a hammer! Bloody sick of it. Calmed down now) Cheers stubby, so essentially its just a clamp that clamps the string? Sounds nice straight forward and simple, which is always a good thing Think i'll probably go for it. Do u just use normal line or get heavier stuff? Cheers

Just had a quick look at them i take it i won't have the same problems with it spinning off too?? Readong throu it do u cut the lines to size and then just replace them, so no feeding at all? (auto, bump or manual)

I was told that was the correct head for that strimmer and u hsave even more probs with non stihl heads, but it may come to that if i can't get the feed working better Cheers

Aye i did take it back when i 1st got it but he reckoned the strimmers just generating to much power?? He did suggest a bit of loctite on threads, i never done it as i put a blade on occasionally too Think i've had it 3 years now, i think last year it wasn't too bad for spinning off but worse than ever now Just thinking aloud, do u think if i put a spring washer on it would help?? Keep the tension on

i did just try that but couldn't find any big enough and not got any metal drill bits big enough either. Althou just thinking i might have some gate snek washers somewhere. Wasn't sure if that was wat the problem was? Still got the feed problem too thou

Alright I must admit i have never needed to do an awful lot with strimmers so not massively familar with them. Bought a new stihl auto cut 40-4 line strimmer head for my stihl strimmer. I really struggle to keep the head on the strimmer fine if u keep it going but as soon as u back of the revs/idle the head comes of the strimmer? Any ideas wot the problem is? Quite a big stihl strimmer not entirely sure the model number as bought it at an agri auction a few years ago (but 1 of the square shanks higher up) Strimmer goes ok, well does all i need it for bu really annoying with this head constantly falling off. There is a small gap between the head and thread on strimmer even when fully tight (bent a 4" nail before i was screwing it on so tight) i tried putting some washers in the gap but couldn't find any washers big enough to see if tightening u the gap would help Also the head never seems to feed line properly. Meant to be 1 u tap it on a stone but never seems to be any play in the centre part

Cheers I've always called them 'dogs' before, rightly or wrongly?? Mibee a local thing. But u stil need to get into the trailer to release the chains, ithought it might be some sort of quick release choker thing. So i take it there is no knot, basically a glorified slip knot that would hold a load on 1 side but pull the other and the knot releases

Cheers folks, i should say just a job for myyself so no workers H&S involved. I would og grudged the hire of a avant for the day/wknd plus the fact nowhere near me to hire them. Also the way the job was the ground was very soft with a steep 4-6ft banking down to the logs, so nothing could really travel on the ground near the logs and most loaders would of struggled to get under the logs with forks dur to the banking. Dent that sounds quite clever, i can almost pcture it in my head might have a google later for it. Not got much more to lift from there but that could be the way to do it, less in/out cab too. Pete wots a clutch (with reference to choke chains)? Was thinking about a thumb, thats the problem with larger machines they get quite dear thou and just don't know how often i'd really use it. I'm bit ruff and ready with the welder (not so good with hydralics thou) but theres a couple of decent welders/engineers near me so might ask them for a rough price. In fact that might not be a bad shout, been enquiring about changing the tracks from rubber to steel, seemingly the idler wheel might need the centre flange ground down so might be worth moving it to their yard to do both jobs

Generallly if u have the room bigger is often best, really all depned wot most of ur work will be and finding the right compramise in size. When it comes to digging ponds or cleaning wet ditches the extra reach of a bigger digger can be really handy. With machines its very easy to spend an extra few hundred for this or that and before ur know it ur thousands over budget Slightly off thread, but see ur city tracks would it be possible to remove some pads and bolt in new pads with decent grousers on them to give u a bit more traction if needed? I take it u could just buzz them on/off fairly quickly with a decent battery impact wrench nowadays Also i have a 5T jcb, which could possibly do with some new rubber tracks, is it possible just to replace them with steel tracks? (are the drive sprokets, rollers etc all the same size/type?) Are u looking at a lot exra to upgrade to steel? Once ur into ur 5t sized diggers quite dear to replace the rubber tracks anyway

Alright Just wondering how u all load ur dumpers or dump trailers with logs? Unfortunately not got a log grab/grapple, so was either rope of chains ont a shakle on the boom. I started off attempting to try a Highway mans hitch knot, idea being i could pull the other end and knot would come lose. It sort of worked a few times but other times just puling loose when i started lifting (logs would be roughly 2ft ish dia x 2-3+m) But sometimes other end was getting tanf=gled up or just not pulling loose. Ended up just going back to slings and/or chains which meant jumping into skip every time Is there a better way/knot to get logs in without jumping into the dumpers skip every time to untie/unchain. Must admit i wasn't overly happy getting into the skip if a log decided to move and trap a foot or something I might look at getting a set of log tongs althou to be honest its not that often i lift logs that size into dumper

Not sure wot ur on about with game birds as u can't shoot game birds out of their nests or at any time apart from the game seasons. I would also guess game birds aren't causing the problem It all depends on the reasons and birds species, it sounds like u could argue environmental health (conservation and crop protection are the other 2 main licences used) with the dropping so u would be ok to control certain species if u wanted. The General Licence is not the same UK wide and slightly different in each country so u have to make sure u comply with them in ur country. U don't need to apply for the GL they are open to anyone to use as long as u have read them and follow the rules It would be illegal for a tree surgeon to fell a tree with a corbie nest in it or destroy the nest, but perfectly legal to shoot the nest out for conservation or crop protection Back to OP it willreally all depend on bird speies and tree type, u mibee could trim some branches if no other suitable perches, or bird spikes as has been mentioned or just constant disturbance as soon as they perch there, they'll soon find somewhere else

Don't think so, perfectly legal to shoot some corvid soecies as they sit on the nest, and is widely done for crow conrol. All legal as long as u comply withe the terms of th General Licence u are using Mibee if u said wot bird species is sitting there it might help, bt to be honest it just wot birds do. Ur cd's or hawk things might be worth of shot. Is there a reason why there sitting in that tree, nearby food? If so take that away

Must admit after seeing that clip of the shed blowing up it does make u think again. There is some vents, holes under the corragted tin and around doors so doubt it would blow up but don't fancy taking the chance either. Cheers to all who answered, atleast i know it won't damage my saws, i'm surpried the ammount of heat that builds up in the shed, my last shed was block walls with insulated tin roof and the cans hardly swelled/shrunk at all. Glad i asked wot i thought was a stupid question, i mibee will go back to building a block cupboard to store them, there is an external vent in the middle of the wall i could build the cupboard around which might minimise the fums/smell in the stone building.

As others have said chainsaw gloves are very limitied in any protection they give. When in the history of man has anyone ever tripped/fell and put the back of there hand onto the ground/chain 1st to stop them. Get some training in proper use, learn about kick backs etc, chain right tension, chain catcher on saw not bent/broke and use the chain brake when u take ur hands off saw. All the above simple things plus a few other things are more worthwhile than chainsaw gloves

Sharpening a chain properely is not rocket science, but it is also quite 'knacky', i've met some folk who've had saws for years and still can't sharpen them. Farmers are a great example of that, often don't know wot the rakers are I also take it chain is at correct tension?? Another typical farmers saw, chains usually hanging off Generally ur better to keep it sharp and sharpen little and often rather than wait till its blunt. I've heard of folk giving chain a rub everytime they fill it, so every 30mins-1hr, which i think it really exxessive (althou that was boys doing 1st thinings on piece work so they must of thought it paid there time to sharpen as often??). If things going well on softwoods and no stupidity from me catching soil/rocks etc, 2/3 rubs a day keeps it pretty sharp all day. Bit more of trees are dirty along roads/railways etc I remeber 1 summe rit was a bit of a heatwave (really unusual up here) and the norway spruce did get quite numb to cut more so than the SS and if it rained overnight u could almost feel the difference in the norway. To be honest i wouldn't have believed the difference the rain made

To be honest the brand or even size of the machine shouldn't matter that much as long as it is still pulling the chain throu the timber and not dying/stalling on u. I'm guessing prob be a combination of chain/bar issues, chain already getting dull and the combination of ripping/crud on bark was enough to finish it off, was about to say possibly poorly sharpened either not evenly or rakers not even (but probably not true with such a new chain) but possibly u have not quite got the hang of sharpening it yet. With a blunt chain it does look like that and i think the fine chips/dust stop it oiling properly It does look like not oiling enough, again was going to say should use a fill of oil to petrol but not relevant with an electric saw. Does it have a control screw to alter flow rate? Ur other cheeky option might be to take it back and exchange it?? I imagine it would come with a 2/3 year warranty. And if not oiling right u' be justified Mibee even exchabge/upgrade it for a 2 stroke? Althou i do buy some cheap own brand screwfix tools and find them pretty good really, i only buy cheap corded tools anything petrol/battery powered i try to go for a 'proper' make

Cheers that has saved me a job. Think me being a jock i'll have all the lids screwed on tight don't want to be wasting any vapours now!!??