drinksloe

If the rakers were uneven hieght would that cause the cut to go wonky. Cutters cutting deeper on 1 side than other?? I know i had this problem years ago when i dislocated 2 fingers couldn't grip the files right in 1 hand so couldn't get enough pressure on to sharpen the chain evenly, ended up giving it loads of rubs with my wek hand to compensate

Or weld the nuts on the back as captive nuts?? assuming u can get in to weld. Could u also thread the holes u drill in the blade so u don't need nuts at all and then use a couple of spring washers to keep them locked tight??

Must admit i'm not really a fan of rubber tracks on greasy/wet or steep soil, esp if u have tracked over it a few times. I never think it takes much to get them spinning, althou to be fair i really could do with a new set of tracks. Have u never tried setting a block up a tree at the top of the hill and just pulling the butts out with a long rope with ur digger at the top of the hill pulling from dry ground? I have been doing something similar with some big windblow stems, area round them was a swamp so pulled tem from the hard track using a block as a redirect (until some b******rd stole my long chains that i'd left ontop of a stem)

It also doesn't mean ur wrong thou mick Althou i really do hope i'm wrong with my red squirrel predication, but i'd never heard of grey's in my valley till 6 yrs ago now catching them in small numbers all throu the valley (and in quite hiugh numbers in the low ground, know of 1 lad catching 100's each year, which considering 6 years ago was catching none is quite worrying) In my area got bugger all ground nesting birds left. U only have to look at the BTO census returns to see declines of 60-80% in many species over last 30 or so years Plenty of sound scierntific advice/research backs it up, even the rspb carry out vermin control on many reserves althou they'd never like to admit it. On 1 the wader nesting success went up by 300% Getting the balance is the hard thing

I know folk offering to pay 7p a tree (but heard of it even lower) and another was upping it to 10p for a site he called K2 it was that steep.

The massive problem/flaw with Pine martins is they just don't eat grey squirrels, they will eat every other thing too, not much is safe from them really. Like a stoat on steroids for ur ground nesting birds or rabbits and can still climb trees to decimate ur more normal nesting birds too. If u look at most bird counts/surveys etc the birds under the most pressure/biggest declines are ur typical 'prey' species (waders, song birds and farmland/garden birds) while most predators are thriving wether corvid, BoP or even badgers and pet cats. The last thing most wildlife needs is more predators trying to kill and eat it macpherson have u noticed a decline in ur garden birds or waders etc in the last 10yrs also?? I hate to say it (esp as someone invloved with local red squirrel conservation) but there screwed, i'm lucky enough to live in a hotspot (got about 12 in and around my garden) but i reckon with 5-10 years will be very lucky to have many/any left. And if squirrel pox gets into the central belt scottish greys they will move north at an alarming rate

I'm possibly in a similar situation with a similar age of house, althou I'm ripping everything out of it and starting from scratch again so should end up with a modern insulated house. U probably need to consult a plumber and find out the heat required for the radiators, and room. If ur log burner, tank and radiators are not matched either the water will over heat and boil or not heat the tank. With many of the larger stoves u need a pump which has the added complication that if u have a power cut u can't even put ur fire on to heat the room. But yes in theory if the new stove is the correct size for ur system u'd just plumb ur stove in to the old plumbing pipes.

I take it ur buying the house or renting?? If the back boiler is the only source of heating currently? If u replace the back boiler with just a pure wood burner then u need a new boiler too plus the assc pipe work changes. So a lot might depend on ur exact circumstances and the other plumbing in the house. If u look throu the various stove sellers u can get all sorts even big 25+kw stoves only putting 5kw to the room I'm just renovating a house and don't know if I'm doing the right thing by trying to heat the whole house via underfloor with a log burner. Can get quite complicated

If u want to cut (fell and brash) in front of a machine. U'll need ur med trees and wind blow tickets (that was the old tickets in case things have changed with new titles/tickets), EFAW+F ticket and possibly a biggish saw that can run a 18" bar all day long 5 days a week, and sometimes u'll need a bigger saw still depending on job/timber

Aye cheers for all the advice, i'll have a good look throu that website. I'm in about most of the trees almost every day, and while I'm not as clued up on diseases etc as many on here are I'll be better than ur average landowner I take it there is no Aye the power boys do come round and keep the lines clear, where just round last year I think. The problem with the LV lines is the clearance isn't that far back. I reckon if 1 branch snaps off the stem will twist it towards the powerlines as it falls. Its not massive but could have just enough crown to catch on the lines How would the power companies know if u've seen the problem? I take it I'm now far more liable than I would of been as i've noticed it than if it was in the middle of a wood and just fell onto the lines The adjoining timber/land to me has trees come down over the HV lines regularly, often 1/2 a year

Alright Looking for a bit of advice, sort of new to being a (small) landowner with trees on my ground. Got a couple of fairly basic questions Wot liabilities does the landowner have regarding trees on his ground and if they can affect others? It's only a small piece of ground but there is a private access road throu it and a few other houses scattered about throu it. Do i need to inspect all the tree's on a regular basis (well I do anyway as I walk about) but do I need to document it (number trees and log it in a book) or do I need a 'real' experts opinion? Also do I need special home insurance to cover if a tree does any damage to a 3rd parties property (to be fair not many trees could really any other houses) If a disaster happens is the tree owner liable or just the home owner (definitely no root issues as I've read on here how complicated they can be) Trees are mainly hardwoods of varying ages but a lot of mid/mature trees esp Sycamore, but all sorts really Also got a couple of eleccy cables (both HV and LV) and a BT cable, we've had a lot of snow recently and I noticed a twin stemmed Sycamore has split at the root with the weight, both stems hung up in other trees very near the LV power lines (1 stem near ABC cable other near old live cables within 2m's). I'm I responsible for them? Or should I phone the local power supplier to warn them? And they'll come out and cut them for free. Obviously too close for me to do anything with? Or should I safely put a rope over them and try to tie them up away from the wires. They could stay hung up for a while or if the wind was wrong they could come down. Finally on a similar note I have a tall skinny birch tree growing way over the top of a BT cable, I had to winch it up in the middle of the snow as was really bending with the weight, it would off took the cable and a shed roof down if it snapped. Would BT come out and take the tree down? Or if I cut it and it goes wrong wot happens with a BT cable? Slap on wrist, fines??? If it wasn't for the shed roof I reckon I would of been better letting the tree come down and take the cable out, been wanting the tree down for a while Cheers for any advice

There is plenty of decent advice on here, but as has been said chippers are easily hired almost anywhere and most reputable companies will have there own. stump grinders, mini loaders, even small access/tracked cherry pickers (even in some cases LGP equipment wether soft traks/argo's or forwarding trailers) are more of a niche market, BUT until u know where ur heading and who already operates in that area, u could have the best idea/business plan but if there is already a local well known contractor offering the exact same thing u will always be up against it. Really the bottom line is u need to get out there and work in the trade for a wee while, get to know the job (even learning how to maintain and fix chippers before u get ur own), know local contractors and learn wot tools/machines there is a shortage off and wether or not u could make money hiring them out. (esp if ur not hiring it with a man as they will gt abused)

Aye ur right there is a lot, now many of the trees are already cut and just need cut up and logged, got a few decent sized wind blow down the bottom to deal with at some point also in the future got some large sycamore to take down in the future too. I bought a small wooded site with decades of neglect/lack of management so just playing catch up Aye I have thought about selling it but to be honest not really set up for it, and for the money not sure worth the hassle. If u counted my time and probably quadruple handling and splitting with an axe it wouldn't be very profitable. I've got things slightly better organised now so not quite as much double handling. I have thought about saying to a couple of neighbours as I could track my digger there with a tote bag quite easily. I will try the roofing membrane idea as that should let it breathe

Cheers folks. Aye wes I've already built a few of those, got a few 8x 5or 6ft pallets for the 2 sides couple of stabs to help support sides and put a tin roof on. Like u say cheap and easy to build seen them things too bob. I did think about building 1 but its just the time involved to stack them (which is the same with a pallet shed) I generally hand split and chuck the split logs in dumper skip, or the smaller 1's roll of my log horse down a shute into the skip so it is quite easy just to dump them in a big heap. I've got a lot of timber to tidy up but at same time can't justify a processor/splitter but do try to minimise handling if I can, usually by using gravity I've already got 100 odd cube under cover so got plenty good dry stuff (some will be 3/4 seasons old now) and like I said possibly 10or so years worth of timber, its more to stop the split wood rotting in the mean time. I am expecting to have to move them a 2nd time in the future anyway

Alright. Just wondering if there is a best way to store cut/split logs outside? Is it worth putting some teram down on the ground first or covering them with a tarp/plastic? I have some old leanto sheds that hold about 100 cube o so which are stacked to the gunnels (and could be over 10 yeas of logs for my own use) but I still have more to log and have a few big heaps (5 or 6 6T dumper loads a heap) lying out in the open. I had a big heap in between a gap in the leanto's which had tin temporyily over most of it, since I've repurposed the tin and put a tarp over it I have noticed condensation on the underside. Also amazing how wet the well stacked face of logs where that weren't covered too. So is it worth putting some teram down on the ground first? Is it worth covering with plastic or wait till after a long dry spell (if they even exist in Scotland ) before covering to minimise condensation. Or best to just leave as logs I should add just for my own use I'm not selling them.

Aye I did think about that., but if u look at the technical specs both are about 64cc, and the power air displacement and blowing speed are fairly similar (infact the 450 had more power than the 500) Althou how much that small extra amount will help when it comes to working them, I have no idea When I phoned the local agent my original question was will the electric start come on all the blowers in the future as I would wait on and buy it then. I think it would be really handy but wether it is a potential problem for the future? Also seemingly the 4-mix engines are a lot more complicated than a normal 2 stroke and have valves etc I always think simple is best (so even the electric start might not be a good thing)

Cheers, I was originally looking for a 2nd hand one. But was looking throu the new blowers to see wot the different models are. Was quoted 450 inc vat, 2 years warranty and I was quite tempted by the thought of the electric start. Seen a couple of refurbished modles but they weren't that much cheaper, and with no warranty Been a long time since I last used 1.

Vespasion , ur idea of hill walking and mine must be very different things. A day 'grousing' is most likely a 10-15 mile walk throu knee high heather, I doubt a pair of trainers would last more than a few days. The heather fairly wrecks even 'proper' boots Generally the idea with boots is to keep ur feet dry in the first place, chances are ur feet will never dry if ur constantly walking throu wet ground which many upland areas tend to be. I've yet to see a mountain rescue team, upland shepherd or hill keeper go to work on the hill in trainers If boots don't give u any extra support why don't u see ice skates that aren't boots same with ski boots?

No I was talking about doing proper off road walks/hikes, u just wouldn't do it in trainers. I do a bit of stalking, shooting and a lot of picking up with my dogs I'd never dream of wearing trainers even waterproof 1's to go most of the places I go, esp on the grouse.

Really can't understand the trainer argument, how do u walk through wet ground? cross throu burns? I've just fairly recently bought a pair of gore tex trainers and there great for walking the dogs etc even on slightly muddy tracks, but that would be there limit. But there is no way u can compare them to a decent pair of boots for any rough walking. If ur struggling to walk because ur boots are too heavy mibee u should get out more so ur used to ur boots

Apologies if been done to death but a search never found much. T'is the season and I'm sick of raking leaves already. Wot is the best option's for leaf blowers? Not commercial use but quite a few paths/tracks throu hard woodland so will get a bit of use this time of year. Was thinking about a backpack and most likely a stihl but open to any reccommendations. Having a browse throu stihl site and see there is a new BR450 with an electric start on the handle, when u look at the spec's there doesn't seem an awful lt of difference in power or engine size to the 600. Thought the electric start would be a really handy thing. Is there any problems with that further down the line? Also it is still a 2mix engine whereas the 500-600's are on the new 4-mix system, the local stockist reckoned the older 2 mix engine are a better less complicated engine (or will take more stick). Does anyone know much about the 2 engine differences?

If ur boots are still comfy try looking at Yeti gaiters. That's why i originally bought a pair, my old harkilla (don'tbuy absolute rubbish) boots had big holes in the heel but with the yetis managed another 3 years of wear out of them only occasionally getting wet feet. The way there designd they fit completely over the whole boot withjust the grips sticking throu. Againu can get ex army gaiters for not a lot of cash. I managed to give myself trench foot while doing some walking in NZ, it was a cracking day, done about 25-30 miles the 1st day but stupidly never inspected why my feet were getting sore,as I had used the boots before. Took my boots of about 3pm and u'd of thought I had been in a bath for hours.Had decentnormal walking socks on. I blamed the double gore tex. Made the 2nd day a nightmare, and changing to dry socks didn't really help as damage was done

I've got a pair of meindl's dovre extreme (mid calf hieght) and there brilliant boots. Althou I reckon my next pair will be ex army, there now using either lowa's or altbergs and get them for about 70ish quid compared to 250for the meindls. Or i might try to find a pair of old fashioned leather unlined boots Just wondering wot everyones views are on modern boots all being goretext lined??? is it a good or a bad thing?? In the past with proper leather boots I always had them well dubbined and always had dry feet. I some times think now I end up with damp feet more due to sweat, esp if I have my yeti gaiters on top which is effectively 2layersof gore tex over the boot.

I would imagine that is the case, ur 130 is over 4ft and probably designed for far larger trees than I would of thought u'd be cutting for coppicing. Sharpening might help thou Plus the other down side with the 4ft breaking bars I find the metal is just that wee bit too thick for even a 3/8th's chain and have to bore a wee pocket for it. great tool for big trees with plenty of leverage but the smaller 3ft size is a better tool on smaller trees

Could u not just use a fencing/joiners pouch?? Personally I couldn't be bothered with 1, if ur ground and working the chipper is there not a chance of some brash pulling something out of it? Wot do u really need to carry anyway? Even spare chains/bars/plug keys/files are either on fuel can or in ur piece bag. Even when working in forestry u don't really need that much any nearer than fuel can