R Mac

Can you do that, when I started using ebay you could opt to accept cheques, postal orders only but then it changed that you had to accept Paypal. I know there's been a change to ebay/Paypal recently, have they again decided to allow a seller to not accept Paypal?

What an ar$h*le, could have simply gone and advised the guy in the tree, in fact it could be argued that as he didn't he was failing in his duty as someone trained to assess others in the correct use of a chainsaw. Rather he choose to skulk in his living room and take a photgraph, a real hero As for the HSE representative, -HSE inspector Neil Ward said: ‘Chainsaws are dangerous pieces of machinery in untrained hands. ‘It is sheer good fortune that no one was hurt that day.’ Given that the guy in question was 53 it's highly likey that he performed the same task quite a few times in the past, he must have more than his fair share of 'Sheer Good Fortune' Why do people making media statements feel the need to be so f***ing dramatic. Don't get me wrong, a lot of good things have come out of an increased awareness of health and safety, especially for employees but to$$ers like those do more harm than good.

I heard that someone was prosecuted for doing that

So basically when people say they've heard that someone has been prosecuted they're talking $h*t. Speaking of being 'Slung off the job' supposing a qualified operator was on a domestic site doing a paid for job and an HSE bod witnessed him (or a nosey neighbour for that matter) using a top handle saw on the ground what could the HSE bod actually do assuming no accident had happened or injuries had been sustained, physically manhandle the operator off site? report him? (to whom) Like I say I'm not saying I'm going to rush out and do it but what other people do is up to them with the proviso that if breaching the regulations led to too many injuries it could provide ammunition for those who would like to ban top handle saws altogether and that would be a bad thing for those who actually need to use a top handle.

Is it actually illegal to use a top handle saw on the ground and has anyone actually been prosecuted for doing so? Personally I haven't felt the need which doesn't mean I won't. I don't think top handle saws are any more dangerous than rear handle but am I right in saying that HSE's issue with top handle saws is simply that they encourage one handed use and even then they concede that there are situations where it's preferable to actually use it one handed. All in all it looks like a typical HSE clusterf**k not unlike the screw gate/auto lock 3 way opening carabiner deal. They banned the use of screw gate initially as the operator 'may' forget to screw it to lock it and the rope might actually unscrew it. Then they discover that even 3 way locking karabiners can open accidently or fail to close properly in the first place. Solution? HSE recommend that you physically check to ensure that auto locks have actually locked which brings us back to the issue with operators forgetting to physically lock a screw gate in the 1st place. Do HSE concede that there are advantages/disadvantages with both types and allow the operator to choose autolock or screwgate? no because that would be an admission that they were wrong, they simply say "well ok auto locks have problems and may require even more checks which in turn opens the possibility for more user error but the fact that autolocks aren't as safe as they 1st belived doesn't alter the concerns that they had with screwgates so the regulation still stands.

Worn hydraulic tappets? takes the 2nd start to get the oil pressure up as the tappets are losing oil while sitting overnight?

Oregon button on for me.

True, I was used to basic rock climbing harnesses with thread back buckles everywhere, the only reason I ended up with a Petzl Avao Fast was that I got it for a really good price and had actually intended to buy the regular version with thread back buckles. I'm glad now that I ended up with the fast buckles (on the leg loops) and don't actually mind needing to step into the belt. To be honest I don't think it takes any longer to step into a harness and pull both ends of the belt to tighten it than it does to wrap yourself into a harness and close a fast buckle.

It's clearly stated in the workbook, page 19 'Three Knot System' quote - a basic set-up allowing access in and out of the tree using the climbing rope only. It illustrates the Bowline/Blakes hitch/Figure 8 stopper knot and also states "your instructor will show you alternative ways of tying the 3 knot system". If it's in the book you need to know it. When I done mine we never climbed on it but were expected to tie it every time we set the rope in the tree before untying and reverting to our preferred set up which basically came down to a split tail with a Blakes Hitch or a Prussik, I think most of us preferred the prussik.

It's better paid than no job.

I take it you spoke to them on the phone? Write to them quoting the Consumer Contracts regulations (formerly distance selling regulations. Tell them (not ask) that you will be returning the boots (registered mail) and that you expect a refund including the original postage cost within the correct time or you'll take the matter further. It may take up to a month to get your money as if what happened to me is anything to go by they'll wait until the very last day. I e-mailed the company I was dealing with, not Buxtons by the way, every week advising them that they now had x amount of days left to issue the refund, never had a reply but did get the refund in the end. Under the Consumer Contracts Regulations you can return goods within a certain time period as long as you let the dealer know in writing regardless of whether there's a fault with the good or not. All this is assuming you didn't buy the boots in person. You have 7 days from the date you received the goods to let the seller know. When you send the letter send it registered. Consumer Contracts Regulations - Which?

Forget about the Evolution if it's the one from screwwfix, I bought one but read a few reviews about the outfeed/infeed tables in relation to the turntable, checked mine and found that the tables weren't square to the blade so impossible to cut accurate mitres. Returned it and the salesman checked another one which had the same fault so got a refund. I decided to save for something like a Makita.

Try these guys. https://www.alpkit.com/lighting

5' 10" and about 10 1/2 stone.

Lifting Operations, Lifting Equipment Regulations. A tipper truck is not lifting equipment, so no.

My Weaver Cube arrived today, couldn't get the damn thing unfolded, eventually gave in and read the instructions Seems all right, checked for faeries/fairies but couldn't find any

Better (possibly) get an old front tyre off a trail bike, 21" preferred, doesn't take as long to coil the cable in due to the larger diameter and you can hold it while you roll it along. The larger diameter over a car tyre makes it easier to shoulder carry and the bike tyre is possibly lighter than a car tyre. I've just purchased an ACE Winch, from Securefix Direct I went for the 1600kg version, CE approved and £150. Saw Tirfors at that price on ebay but most were collection only which wasn't an option for me.

I would think you'll have some fragments in the crankcase but maybe not, could be they got fired out the exhaust port. Could you rinse out the crankcase with diesel a couple of times, blow it out with an airline and give it a quick vac by taping a bit of small bore fuel line or similar to the nozzle on a shop vac?

Absolutely agree, but I wouldn't go near any cutting tool with a grinder (well apart from drill bits). I sharpen all my axes with a flat file, finish them off on an old oilstone (not a composite stone) and if I have too much time on my hands I polish the edge with a piece of leather glued to a piece of 2x4 and polishing compound. Of course if the steel isn't good quality the edge will fold or chip first time you use it. Also vastly prefer wooden handled axe's, guess I'm Old Skool Sawsaw, great link you put up, thanks for sharing that

Ok thanks Richard, will need to check them out in the flesh, also got a couple of local builders that I'll check out, Donley & Kane. They might not have the options that Ifor Williams and Brian James have though. I also need to check out the Tachograph thing, it's slightly different over here in N.I.

I'm with the 'stick With It' side, ok a definite sickener having to replace the gearbox no question about that but look at it this way the original box done almost 100k so depending on your mileage if the new box does the same how many years driving are you looking at. Service items don't really count and you probably wouldn't even consider them had it not been for the gearbox issue. Front diff? again how many miles has it done already, if it's the original diff treat it like the gearbox, once rebuilt it should be good for a fair few 1000 miles. Ok so you're looking at an 08 pick-up that's really cost you 9k rather than 5k but from here on in (after a year of ownership) it's going to cost every year you own it and in that it's no different to any other vehicle used or new. You either spend on maintainence or you lose in depreciation. Also since you bought your's every other truck out there that's newer than yours has had a years extra mileage on it since you bought yours and each one is getting closer to having the same problems that you've already dealt with. Finally, remember if you sell it because you're sick of it that your 'Old' truck is going to be the next guys 'New' truck and he'll be delighted with it (as you probably were when you bought it although the previous owner probably had lost interest in it) especially as it's had a new gearbox and a rebuilt front axle. I've been the guy who after the initial 'Love affair' with 'my' new car got fed up with it, didn't look after it, didn't wash it, let rubbish gather inside it etc etc, sold it and next thing you see it in the hands of the new owner and it's clean and had a bit of polish and he's pleased as punch with 'his' new car.

4.5 x 1.90, that is a big trailer, it would look pretty ridiculous behind a CR-V though What do you think of the Brian James then?

Well I was actually considering a Brian James CarGo Compact which has the wheels underneath the bed so the bed itself is actually higher than the Ifor Williams GD84 which I was also considering. The 3000kg Brian James has a bed height of 52cm but the 2600kg version has a bed height of 60cm due to bigger wheels I guess, 12" rather than 10". The CarGo Compact is essentially a 'Flat Bed' The IW GD84 has a bed height of 43cm but isn't classed as a flat bed however the IW LT/LM85 which is a flat bed has a load height of 60cm. So for a flat bed the 3000kg BJ CarGo has the lowest bed height at 52cm, it's slightly heavier than the GD84 at 400kg compared to 395kg but has double the gross max load. Obviously adding sides etc to any of the flat beds will increase the gross weight and consequently lower the max load capacity that I can carry.

Thanks guys, the CR-V obviously isn't going to make the best use of the trailers I have in mind but I'm kinda looking at the trailer as a once only buy that'll suit a bigger 4x4 pick up at a later date if need be. So I should be ok given I have a pre 97 licence to go ahead and look at 8x4/8x5 trailers in the 2500-3000kg capacity/400 - 450kg unladen weight bracket.

So how would I go about checking it out? the vertical load on the coupling (towball?) is 100kg. Isn't the load on the towbar dependant on how the load is distributed on the trailer, i.e. weight centered over the axle/axles would reduce the load on the towball/ towing vehicle rear axle, wouldn't a twin axle trailer have a lower vertical load on the coupling (everything else being equal) compared to a single axle?