R Mac
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Everything posted by R Mac
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I've been considering a larger capacity saw to replace my Echo CS-701S-VL, I've looked at the Echo CS-8002 obviously but the Dolmar 9010 looks good on paper. I'm not really interested in a Husqvarna and don't want to spend the money on a Stihl for what will be an occasional use saw. I may want to run up to a 28" bar on this saw now and then but mostly a 24", both the Echo & Dolmar rated to run 28" On the subject of Stihl, I would consider a 2nd hand Stihl but not an Mtronic, what model should I be looking at? what about an M460? Stihl rated for a 24" bar but with 6hp which is more than the Echo or Dolmar I can't see a 28" being a problem.
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It would definitely need to be welded properly, certainly well outside of my skill level. I might try to find some 7/16" chain first.
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Hi Eddy, thanks for the info, that would explain why the chain wouldn't sit properly on the sprocket. I have 2 options then, look for some 7/16" or modify the clutch drum. Any suggestions on how to go about modifying the drum?
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I'd imagine it was unlikely in the next 1 -2 years, there isn't a big market for large capacity saws and Stihl and Husqvarna have it covered. I think Echo are concentration on updating their existing range of small to mid sized saws. The CS-8002 is the largest CE approved saw they make and the next and only saw they make that's bigger is the non CE approved CS-1201 I guess they'll hold off on a replacement for the CS-8002 until they need to update to meet future regulations. Of course there's 2 ways to look at the CS-8002, as a slightly dated design ready to be replaced with a more high tech model or A fairly basic reliable old school saw, free from modern technology that'll inevitably be more expensive to fix and more likely to break. Looking at it that way it makes getting a CS-8002 while it's still available a good move. but of course there's always Dolmar or Echo might just release a CS-780SX
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Nice saw, I'd been looking at the CS-8002 but more recently been looking at the Dolmar 7910, on paper the Dolmar looks good but Echo seem to perform in the real world better than the spec would suggest. I'd hate to rush out and buy just now as the Echo is a bit of an older design (nothing wrong with that IMO) and I would think it's due an upgrade, my luck Echo would release a new model as soon as I bought the CS-8002. The Echo does look like a very tough saw.
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Bogging down is soul destroying anywhere, I don't know saws really, just wondered why the max recommended bar size seems quite low now compared to years ago even though the power is the same or more, the only thing I can come up with is that they used to rev lower and probably had more torque. I guess in the end it's a case of trying the bar you want on the saw you have and seeing if you can live with it.
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Not really comparable IMO, the Stihl is lighter by 400g, more powerful by 1.5kW, is a 90cc saw rather than an 80cc saw and is a more modern saw generally. The downside is that it's rrp £225 more expensive at £1224 againt the Echo at £975 rrp, that isn't a lot but the CS-8002 can be bought for £674 including VAT, I have no idea what the best price would be on the Stihl though. I don't know about a 24" bar on a 620SX, the max recommended is 20" but at 4.2hp assuming it has sufficient torque I'd guess it could handle it but cutting slower than a lot of folks would like.
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Cheers Joe, got to say I'm surprised that displacement is used a a guide as there's a fair difference in power output between saws of similar engine capacity. Surely power/bar length while not perfect, is a better indicator than capacity? Seems there's a trend though for large capacity (and heavy) saws with short bars for faster cutting, personally I prefer a smaller lighter saw with a longer bar, that's why I'd prefer to see manufacturers list max torque and at what rpm. I don't mind a slower cut if it's consistent under load, max power at max revs is fine but with most 2 stroke engines the power drops significantly if the revs drop. Interestingly back in the day a 5hp saw was delivering max at about 6000rpm and was expected to handle up to a 36" bar, a lot of seriously large trees were felled using saws like that so there's no question that they were effective.
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The 1st saw to be branded as Echo was released in 1963 in Japan, the Echo CS-80, the name was changed to Kioritz Echo in 1971. The history on the american Echo website refers to Echo Inc, the company set up in the USA to initially import Echo products. Echo history Here Echo CS-80, 1963 on Youtube. [ame] [/ame]
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Not happy, got my new chain for the Danarm at the weekend but it was too long so ordered some straps and ties. Straps and ties arrived today so I rushed out to shorten the chain. Chain shortened and fitted and it isn't running smoothly on the drive sprocket, it's seriously bad So double checked the new chain measurements against the older chain that came with the saw and all appears ok, distance across 3 rivets is 13/16" on them all (one Laser Brand, one Carlton and one Oregon). Pulled the drive sprocket but there are no markings on it. There is a bit of wear on the spurs but there's also a bit of play in the sprocket bushing (oilite bushing rather than needle roller bearing) It looks like the chain is riding up off the spurs, is there any way to measure a sprocket to find out what pitch of chain it takes?
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Is there a general guide to power output (HP/kW/Ps) relating to the maximum bar length a saw can handle assuming similarly sized chains? What HP would you expect to need to pull a 3/8 .058 regular (not Skip) semi chisel at e.g. 24", 28", 36" max in each case? Also why are Husqvarna the only manufacturer to list max Torque arguably a better indicator of cutting performance than max power?
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That's what I thought then, switch 'Off' - circuit closed (to earth). Switch 'On' circuit open. Same as my Pioneer 620, 1st time I started it a few years ago it started ok but didn't stop when switched 'Off' couldn't figure it at the time as when I started looking I found a wire disconnected and wondered how it had managed to start on an open circuit, when I asked I was told how it worked. Wasn't sure if they still worked the same way on modern saws but it seems in this case they do.
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So the when the switch is 'On' the circuit is open, i.e. not earthed, switch 'Off' the circuit is closed to earth. Just like the old saws in fact. If the switch on the Husky was faulty it's failing to a closed (to earth) position, disconnecting the wires should allow the saw to start (assuming a faulty switch) If the saw was starting but not stopping when the kill switch was operated the fault is that the circuit isn't being closed, bridging the wires should stop the saw?
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Interesting, how does the stop switch work on the Husky, I would have assumed, like Stubby and it seems incorrectly that there were 2 wires running to the switch, switch either makes or breaks a circuit (or shorts out the electrics like older saws) Joining the two wires would make the circuit, no?
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The switch would be the easiest thing to try assuming you can get it out easily.
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The truth is Echo have been around for years, I didn't list it as it's no longer a current model but I also have my fathers old Echo CS-701S-VL, the user manual is dated 1975. Echo have been making saws since the late 60's which is as far as I know pretty much the same as Husqvarna and I'm pretty certain the Japanese know how to build a 2-stroke engine. They're hardly an unknown quantity unless you happen to wear blinkers.
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LOL (even if I did have to read it twice) I should point out though that if they don't have a flag it doesn't count.
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I went for an Oregon type 59 which is .063 gauge (1.6mm) and .404 pitch (7/16), according to the Oregon site type 59 is a replacement for the old type 52 and one of the old chains I had was stamped 52 on the drive link. The bar I have is solid tip.
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I just bought a new 18v lithium Ion cordless to replace an ageing 9.6v ELU (Identical to one of the DeWalt 9.6v) I ended up with a Makita on the basis of having a very old Makita corded drill. I went for the Makita DHP453SYE which uses the LXT batteries. I went for the 2 x 1.5Ah kit from B&Q rather than the1 x 4Ah kit from Screwfix as I generally only need the drill for a quick job but I need it ready immediately so 2 batteries with one always fully charged suited me better. Turned out when it came it was a limited offer with 3 x 1.5Ah batteries. Cost £140 delivered.
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unless of course he hadn't put the proper procedures in place, a guy with zero experience, not a full time employee, first time on the job, apparently supervised although no one seems to know exactly what happened... Unfortunately for the owner/regular crew even if they're completely free from blame it's something that they'll likely never get over. All in all it's too bad it ended the way it did, I'm sure quite a few of us have taken chances at one time or another but thankfully didn't pay the ultimate price for a split second error of judgement. There's a fine line between near miss and game over.
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I might as well give it a go then.
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Not used much yet but recently bought the following, Echo CS-450ES Echo CS-360TES I was considering the CS-620SX but now also looking at the new CS-501SX or a Dolmar. Should say I don't have a lot of experience of different saws.
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I'm not sure what length I ended up with on that one, I did buy 2 eye to eye prussiks for my lanyard and flipline, went 75cm and 85cm to see which one worked best. It ended up with the 85 on the flipline and the 75 on the lanyard, both are 4 wrap/3 tresse (or is it 3/3?) but there doesn't seem to be a noticeable difference between them although the 85cm on the flipline obviously has longer tails. It seems like there's a lot of variation with the VT, rope compatability, VT diameter, climbing rope diameter, number of wraps/tresses, tresse crossover, ie left tail always on top or left tail alternating over/under, tail length etc. It looks like it's just one of those things that you adjust until it's right.
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It's a good job you mentioned magnesium, I'd forgotten about that and had intended to weld up a crack on the clutch casing
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The Danarm is now off the bench waiting for a new chain, it's been replaced by this. Pioneer 620. It was running but died last week while I was messing around, fuel starvation by the look of the sediment filter plus it fired up when I injected fuel into the cylinder
