R Mac

Thats true, the only things I owned were my harness, helmet and a webbing sling.

All looks ok, I assume the 9mm Boa is for the friction hitch on your climbing line. Someone has mentioned a lanyard, in addition to the length of climbing line you'll need 2 x Karabiners, I use a DMM Ultra O on the side that stays clipped and a DMM Boa on the side that gets clipped off/on. Another length of 9mm Boa for a friction hitch on the lanyard 1 x Micro Pulley to advance the friction hitch on the lanyard, I use an ICS Small Single Pulley. For Aerial Rescue you'll need, Spare Prussik loop c/w Karabiner Webbing Sling c/w Karabiner Possibly a Figure 8 descender c/w Karabiner Also a 1st Aid Kit, a Knife (the course book mentions a folding blade), Whistle. Climbing Helmet, I use a Petzl, can't remeber the exact model. If you're spiking then you'll obviously need spikes and possibly a wire cored flipline, I use a Honey Brothers Wire Core with Swivel Snap-Lock. you'll also need a friction hitch, another micro pulley, again I use an ICS Small Single Pulley and another karabiner. so in addition to what you already have 4 Karabiners (5 if you use a figure 8 descender, 6 if you need a flipline) 1 Micro Pulley (2 if you need a flipline) 2 Friction Hitches (3 if you need a flipline) 1 Webbing Sling 1 Figure 8 Descender (possibly optional, if you don't use it you need one less karabiner) Knife 1st aid Kit Whistle Climbing Helmet Wire Core Flipline + 1 karabiner if the flipline already has one fitted Climbing Spikes I think that should cover the basics needed for CS-38 Phone http://www.treeworker.co.uk/ and explaic what your doing.

Shavey, here's the measurements for the smaller Danarm clutch drum, think it's for a 110DDA, 110, 110 Automatic and 125 Automatic. The large one is the 7/16" one for the DD8F

Gut feeling was right in this case then. Makes a change for me

I have a smaller clutch drum for a Danarm, I'll measure it up but it looks like it's deeper than the one you have, pretty sure mine is for a 110/125.

Unfortunately no, they were going to until they realised that they'd have to add the actual 'Brand Name' in case people mistook it for a New Old Stock Danarm one from the late 1950's.

Yeah but rumour has it that some of the components are all made in the same factory, re. the colours I think you can get, Orange/White, Most Expensive Orange/Grey, Next Most Expensive Orange/Black, Cheaper but has a better guarantee, Got a bad review from some Scandanavian guy though. Red/Black, Priced close to the Orange/Black, like the Orange/Black they appear to be popular with those who want to be a little bit different. Blue/Black, as above but aimed at the UK market, probably on the basis that we've got a Tory Government.

No I didn't bother in the end, was ready to place a bid but had other stuff to get that took priority. I wasn't convinced that the 110DDA actually came with a 7/16" chain/bar/sprocket, I suspected, possibly incorrectly that it would have been fitted with a .404, the later but very similar 110 was almost certainly .404 and would have had a smaller clutch/sprocket. Just measured the clutch drum, Inside Dia Clutch side - 90mm Depth Clutch Drum - 20mm Inner Flange Dia - 60mm Spindle Bore Diameter Without Bearing/Bushing - 20mm Bearing/Bushing Inner Dia - 14mm The above measurements taken with a ruler rather than a vernier but close enough.

Well worth it IMO

New Guy Ti, thanks for the link, brilliant, :lol: How does he keep a straight face, loved how he kept looking around as if expecting to find an industrial spy hidden in the hedge.

That looks quite good but I think I'll hold off until they have a Chainsaw manufacturer licensed version, it will come as you can get a everything else with a chainsaw brand logo. Probably be more expensive but the branding does improve the performance by an order of magnitude, my coffee tastes much better from a branded mug.

I believe it plays a significant part, wet land drained so that it no longer absorbs water which it then releases gradually is one thing, straightening rivers effectively shortens them so there's less space for the water and the volume of water travels too far too quickly and isn't absorbed before it reaches a bottlenext, result? flooding.

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Wow!! and a suspected gas leak as well.

Hi folks, just wondering what you all use as throwline storage, I had my sights set on a Weaver Throwline cube but I've seen an empty MIG wire spool with one flange removed being used, I had a try with it and to be honest seemed less prone to tangles than a cube. What are you all using?

This just arrived today, a new old stock clutch/sprocket for a Danarm DD8F, 90 or so links of new old stock 7/16" Oregon chain and an assortment of tie straps/presets. The chain has a bit of surface rust at one end and a few stiff links but it's in a diesel bath just now. I got it all off the guy on Gumtree. Looking forward to getting the chain/sprocket fitted to give the saw a try. Thanks to all who offered suggestions/advice, much appreciated

The choker chain looks useful but expensive, one for the wants list I think.

I'm was going to use the bow shackles to attach the winch to the strops but I could and probably will just attach the winch directly to the strops at least at the winch end. I hadn't really thought about the means of attachment until you asked but I suppose the endless loop sling might be a bit bulky to fit nicely to the winch attachment pin or the cable hook. I'll know better when the stuff arrives.

Not necessarily, quite often faults appear on particular examples of certain models and it can take some time for the manufacturer to firstly admit that a fault does exist and secondly to address the issue, it's more than possible that the dealers are in the dark and trying to fix something that only occurs in certain situations. The information may not be available yet.

Ok An Update, I've ordered ACE wire rope Puller, 1600kg lift/2500 pull Shear Pins for above 1 x Duplex (eye to eye) 3m x 3000kg Sling 1 x Endless round 5m x 3000kg Sling 2 x 3.25 Ton Bow Shackles That'll do for now but I'll probably add a 10 ton recovery snatch block, a 6 ton Bow Shackle and a 6000kg x 5m Endless round Sling at some point. Thanks to those who contributed by offering advice/suggestions.

Ok, looking at the specification for a Tirfor T516 and recommended Pulley Blocks, information taken from Lifting Equipment Specialist & Supplier | LiftingSafety Tirfor T516 WLL Lifting Capacity - 1600kg Wire rope Diameter - 11.5mm Pulley Rating Required for 2.1 mechanical Advantage - 3200kg Snatch Block Sheave for use with Tirfor Cable Pullers. Pulley Block 3200, weight 15.5kg, £195 WLL Lifting Capacity - 3200kg Wire rope Diameter - 15mm Sheave Diameter - inner/outer - 180mm/220mm Tirfor Recommended Wire Rope to Sheave Ratio - 18x Wire Rope Diameter, 11.5mm dia wire rope x 18 = 207mm

Not exactly, the 8 ton snatch block is certainly not designed for lifting but neither is the winch rated for lifting 2.5 ton, that's it's pull rating, the lifting rating is 1.6 ton. To be honest I can't see many people using snatch blocks that in an attempt to get the correct diameter sheave weigh in at 25kg, as you say even if you get the appropriate diameter the groove is potentially too wide for the wire rope. The pulleys listed on the link below are designed to be used with 'Cable Pulling Machines From All Manufacturers' See Here None of them fit the bill exactly. I'm tempted to go for the 8 ton recovery snatch block to be honest. It's massively over the pull rating of the rest of the system the only concern is the potential negative effect that the smaller than recommended pulley diameter has on the wire rope.

I normally take size 43, regular Meindl boots in 43 are just fine, bought a pair of Stihl Advance GTX in size 43 and they're big fitting, not uncomfortably big but roomy with plenty of width. All day comfort out of the box. Stihl Advance GTX

So where did the white washer come from? you say you didn't use it when you fitted the bar and chain, he removed your bar/chain initially and used his own, then put yours back on. Any chance you put the packing washer back on the outside of the clutch cover for 'safe keeping' when you initially fitted the bar/chain, he found it when swapping the bar/chain and put it back inside the clutch cover?

Just thinking, if I go for the 1600kg winch it has a straight pull rating of 2500kg, if use a pulley as a redirect wouldn't I need at least 1 x 5 ton strop?