R Mac

Thanks Matty, If I've understood you correctly and using a foot ascender and HAAS the HAAS and foot ascender foot loop both attach to the central tie in point on my harness, the neck lanyard attaches to the friction hitch pulley and I simply step up on the climbing rope while going hand over hand on the rope above the rope wrench? If I use a hand ascender (would the same type of ascender that is used for a HAAS do or do I need a handled ascender?) it needs a long foot loop for my left foot (assuming the foot ascender is strapped to my right) and sits above the rope wrench, the hitch is still advanced using a neck lanyard. In both cases do I need to push the rope wrench upwards or does the friction hitch push it up via the 'stuff tether'? Finally, once I'm in a work position or ready to descend I would remove both foot ascender and HAAS/hand ascender and unclip the neck lanyard, do I then need to use 2 hands to operate the rope wrench and friction hitch or is the friction hitch operated via the 'stiff tether' on the rope wrench?

I haven't tried that but it looks essentially the same as the O Rig except that with the O Rig you can position the hitch away from you to get maximum amount of the climbing line pulled down towards you for ascending and then as the climbing line is effectively a loop you can slide the paracord prussik towards you and then by pulling down on the Ultra O the friction hitch moves down closer to you for limb walking or descending. Not a lot of difference I would think and to be honest the slack tender /prussik is a lot simpler. Compare this pic with the one I posted previously, this one has the hitch move up for ascent, the other is down for limb walking/descent. I should add that I leave the mini carabiner on the pulley when advancing the climbing line, just the paracord prussik stays on the working end of the rope.

I'm interested in trying SRTWP but having difficulty getting my head around what gear I actually need. From what I've been reading I can use a friction hitch and hitch climber pulley but also need a secondary friction device to share some of the load on the friction hitch, I also need a foot ascender and foot loop. What else would I need for SRTWP? or what would be a good set-up? If I wanted to use SRT for access before switching back to DdRT do I need different equipment than I would if I stayed on SRT for work positioning?

You could use the 'O' Rig, thats what I'm using at present but rather than running through the central D ring on my harness I'm running through a DMM Revolver. ClimbingArborist.com?Advanced climbing techniques My set up with my old rope which didn't have a spliced eye. I use a prussik loop made from paracord and a small accessory carabiner to advance the friction hitch. To advance the rope I un-clip the paracord prussik leaving the prussik on the rope open the Ultra O carabiner remove the eye splice take it out of the DMM Revolver and clip the ultra O to my harness to secure it until I can get the rope higher. Once I have re positioned the rope I pass it through the DMM Revolver unclip the Ultra O from my harness and attach the eye splice to the Ultra O re attach the paracord prussik to the mini carabiner on the hitch climber Hope that makes sense, it's easier to do than to write about (thankfully)

That clearly explains their demise, how important that must have been to prospective owners Virtually none of the things you mentioned is of any relevance to those who actually went out and bought a Land Rover, I'd suggest that the fact that they didn't come with a plethora of features was one of the reason people did buy them, they were unlike any other 4x4, if they had been clones of Jap Pick-ups then what reason would there be to buy one rather than one of the alternatives. You just don't get it but that's fine, but don't think that because you don't like them it means that everyone else has to agree. Those who have owned them and in many cases have owned more than one knew exactly what they were buying, I hardly think they need educated on the error of their ways.

I've used it on a steel tank but that was a few years ago, pre ethanol. Probably wouldn't work on a plastic tank and suppose it mightn't be ethanol proof.

I'll make a note of that user name, is there any chance that the package really got f***ed up by the delivery company? as for repairing the petrol tank, what about JB Weld? There is an ethanol proof petrol tank sealer on the market that may well sort the problem but it's expensive. Gas Tank Sealer - Fuel Tank Sealing Kits - Caswell

Some people who owned them and a good few who didn't think they are. Seems like those who owned them and believed them to be good are wrong

What did he actually complain about in the end? it's typical of ebay sadly, did they refund all your costs, listing, commission etc? Bad enough that you've wasted time but surely they're not going to keep their fee's as well. You could post his ebay username here, that way others can block/cancel his bids

Do you mean Spliced eye krab? If so then that's what I would do.

Would a Hitch Climber pulley streamline the set-up? the sides of the Pinto are quite wide/far apart which is pushing the eye 2 eye out on the carabiner. The ICS Micro Pulley would also be narrower than the pinto where the carabiner goes through. I use an O Rig set up with a Hitch Climber and my prussik cord has simple fishermans knots but it's still more streamlined, with eye 2 eye prussik cord your set up should be really streamlined with a hitch climber.

@ Flatyre. In that case I apologise but having been considering a pick up myself (Ranger, Navara etc etc) and reading reviews I still feel that when they get used and abused the way most LR's do they aren't the last word in reliability either. I agree that they could have been improved but what couldn't? in LR's case though they had enough time to get everything sorted. Expensive yes, unfortunately.

I wouldn't say they used cheap parts and cheap materials, nor would I agree that they're only on the road due to constant efforts by owners. That makes it sound like the all need weekly attention which wasn't my experience. Lets face it every vehicle needs maintained even the family car but few suffer the abuse or do the work of 75% of the Land Rovers out there. Of course there were particular versions that were more troublesome than others but it was almost always down to the choice of engine. Of all the faults the most difficult to sort unless you were the 1st owner was the bulkhead rusting and that was down to poor design. Being the only steel body part and the part that everything else including the steering box bolted to it should have been galvanised or at least properly rust-proofed but lack of rust proofing was the norm when the Defender (actually 90/110, Defender name came later) was launched No offence but your opinion seems to be based on received wisdom rather than actual experience.

Too bad, always liked the 'Land Rover', I had an ex electricty 2.5 Diesel LWB van body a few years ago, should've kept it. Nothing else like them. Reliability problems with the LR? yes but no worse than Japanese alternatives when they actually get used the way 75% of Land Rovers get used rather than used on the school run although to be fair they aren't exactly 'like for like'. Remember when the 1st Daihatsu 'jeeps' appeared? a few farmers around here switched to them from Land Rovers, I don't see too many of them around. There are 1000's of 30 year old + LR's around, wonder how many of the current crop of pick-ups will be around in 30 years time? not too many 20 years old ones around presently.

Well Said

It doesn't, as long as you have a a system and stick to it. I can manage to put petrol in my motorcycle and diesel in my car without needing to do an oil change on the forecourt.

I should have asked which Rock Exotica swivel, the Hydra won't work on the Treeup harness as it has a webbing bridge. The Orbitor looks like it might fit the bill but it does seem to be quite hard edged compared to the Petzl or DMM which might be an issue as I'm using an O Rig set-up (currently running through a DMM Revolver attached to the central ring on my current harness which is a Petzl Avao Fast) and was hoping to simply run the climbing rope through the swivel.

Cheers, I'll have a look at Rock Exotica then.

You don't need to know all the things at this stage, that's what the training is for. Personally I found that seeking additional help on the internet was counter productive, especially for the climbing courses (CS38-39) as I ended up with information overload, some of which was incorrect or misleading. If you really must prepare and assuming you're using your own saw, learn to remove the clutch cover, bar, chain, sprocket, spark plug, air filter and recoil starter, clean them and put it all back together without needing to faff about. If you can already do that you can learn how to find the correct chain for your saw, i.e. pitch, gauge, chain length etc. That'll cover a big part of the maintenance and if you're confidant about the maintenance you can concentrate on the other aspects of the course once the training starts Just my opinion, and all the best for the course

Hi Folks, just ordered a Treeup TH30 harness but would like to replace the floating ring with a swivel, I've seen the Petzl in small and large and also the DMM, again small and large. Are there any others I should consider and what size would you recommend? I'm leaning towards a small in either Petzl or DMM and probably my 1st choice would be DMM as all my other hardwear is DMM. Thanks in Advance

It my not be the manufacturers, it could just as easily be the difference in import duty and VAT between different countries. I was looking at chainsaw prices in Scandanavia and in Norway a Husky 550xp had an rrp of 7339 NOK which is about £590, the UK rrp is £758.

It's a pickup with a Merc badge and no ground clearance (not that it'll need it, highest thing it'll need to go over is a kerb)

Husqvarna saws seem to be much more expensive in the UK, the RRP of a 550XP here starts at £758, in Norway it's around £590 (7,399 NOK)

Is there actually an importer for Echo saws in Norway? the only Scandanavian importers I found were in Denmark and Finland. Clicking on Norway or Sweden takes you to the Danish importer. Echo Global Network