R Mac

Isn't your rope a bit over-spec'd for the lowering device and pulley? I'd go for the Stein RC1000. ICS Small impact block and 12mm Sirius. That's 3500kg mbs for the rope, 2000kg mbs for the pulley and 1000kg wll on the RC-1000. total price from Honey Bros, £244.80 if you take a 30m rope.

Aye seems to be all there including a Homelite bar, giving it a good clean before I start to service the carb, need to make a gasket to fit between the head and reed block as it isn't part of the carb service kit. It's a compact wee saw given the engine capacity.

31 years and 10cc, my new CS-8002 with new 28" Sugihara Light Type Pro bar (from Rob D, Chainsaw Bars/Sugihara Guide Bars co uk) and my late fathers CS-701S VL with the 24" bar that came on the CS-8002. Both around the 10.5kg mark as they sit but the CS-8002 feels heavier, probably down to the physical size.

Working at this, a Homelite Super XL Automatic, starts, runs but dies in the cut. New carb service kit to be fitted but there are a few scores on the piston when viewed through the exhaust port so could be down on compression.

Thanks guys, should point out that I'm currently running 18" on the 450 and happy enough with performance, been using it in Ash and Beech at more than bar length dia. I tend to be happy to run at the upper limit on bar length.

Informing people that a Tree Preservation Order has been made | Planning Practice Guidance

He isn't the OP.

True, if some companies had recalled every saw that had persistent and seemingly unfixable problems we'd all be back using axes and cross cut saws by now. Echo have put their hand up, are recalling and will be replacing the problem saw and in the meantime are giving out loaners which in the end you can buy for £100 and still get the replacement. What else could you reasonably ask.

Not even close to being formed IMO. You could have done (and still could) do a better job with a ball pein hammer. I certainly wouldn't be buying any more chains from them.

I'm looking at getting saw to sit between my CS-450 and CS-8002, like the look of the CS501 but also considering the CS-620SX. Tempted by the weight/power ratio of the 501 If you use a CS-501 what's your opinion? pro's & con's, what's the max bar length you've used, anyone running a 20"/50cm bar?

I reckon you've got pinholes in one or both of the diaphragms in the carb, fuelling will be all over the place. If the saw has been sitting for a long time with fuel in it the ethanol will melt the diaphragms. Had what sounds like the same symptoms on an saw that had sat for a couple or more years, would rev on the choke but died on the throttle but was very inconsistant. Pulled the carb and removed the diaphragms, when held up to the light there were 3 or 4 pin hole sized holes, a new diaphragm kit sorted it.

Shouldn't the buttresses have been removed 1st so that the gob is cut into continuous longitudinal fibres? I was taught back cut always above the gob, not much more than an 1" but never below when felling, blocking down is a different matter.

Is this what you mean? [ame] [/ame] What I do once I've got the tension where I want it and the priussik is holding the rigging line is to slide the moving pulley down to create slack on the working end, tie and alpine butterfly on the working end and clip in a carabiner before sliding the moving pulley back up the rigging line until it holds on the alpine butterfly/carabiner. Now the load is held on the rigging line and can't slip rather than being held on the progress capture prussik.

LOL Yeah they've only been making saws since the 1960's, bloody newcomers

Yeah I agree, the electronics are at a very early stage and as market leaders Husy and Stihl are suffering (if that's the right word) as they're the ones pushing new technology, but it will be sorted. As far as liquid cooling goes it has an effect on emissions as a side effect, engine runs cooler = less power loss = less fuel required to produce a given output, that's partly why BMW and now Triumph have had to add liquid cooling to their air cooled bikes, coupled with an increase in engine capacity. Interestingly you mention 2 stroke motorbikes, they started off air cooled/reed or disc valve, went liquid cooled, went liquid cooled with variable port timing e.g. YPVS and whatever Suzuki and Kawasaki called theirs. Powervalves in an attempt to maintain outright power without loosing bottom end power (torque) and all whilst making their bikes more fuel efficient and thus cleaner. Chainsaw engines are still miles behind even with the electronics. It's possible we'll see carbs being replaced by fuel injectors which would make better use of the electronics used for the ignition system. Cheaper, lighter and less parts than a carb and they're already been used in racing 2 stroke engines, even my 09 Triumph Scrambler which is air cooled has fuel injection.

Probably not but at least they were easy to adjust and cheap to replace I was thinking about where saw technology might be heading and was looking at how air cooled motorcyles had fared when faced with ever tighter emission regulations. The only way I could see to keep power levels where they already are and reduce emissions at a given engine capacity is liquid cooling, failing that it'll take an increase in engine size to provide the required power levels, that's whats happening with air cooled motorcucles. Is it practical to add liquid cooling? there's extra weight and if you need to drive a pump for the coolant the power taken to drive the pump will reduce the power available to cut. Will they go for 4 stroke engines which are more emission friendly, switch to twin cylinder engines? Perhaps more likely is that they'll simply switch to battery power, zero emissions from the saw but conveniently ignoring the emissions/waste/pollutants created by producing and recharging (and ultimately dumping) the batteries, still it'll make it appear that the government is serious about the green issue and appease the greens for a little while. Our carbon footprint is so much worse than the one attributable to them while they're driving around in limo's or jetting off to the latest 'talks' on the environment.

You're undoubtedly right about emission regs and Echo having to adopt computer tech sooner or later, I think it's significant though that Echo don't appear to be chasing the maximum power thing like Stihl/Husky, probably as they aren't seen as being in direct competition whereas Stihl/Husky do need to outdo each other as the top 2 saw manufacturers, that probably results in reduced emissions without adopting the electronic emission control. In any case, what may or may not happen next year or the year after is irrelevant, the Echo is available now without the electronic trickery plus it's, cheaper and has a longer warranty than either Stihl or Husky. Less powerful? maybe but it'll cut faster than a saw that either falls apart or refuses to start.

How so?

I don't think the 360TES is a torquey as an MS200T, I used a 200T when I did CS-39 and a Husky 540, preferred the 200T. I got the feeling from my limited use of the 200T that it wasn't a high revving saw but held the revs really well and just kept cutting. Definitely give the 360 time to warm up properly and give it a day or two to run in properly. Never tried a 201T so don't know how the 360TES would compare. I'd be interested in your feedback.

Very Nice Never owned a Stihl but tried variety on the courses I was on, liked them all although I use Echo myself.

I guess the reason most people start off on a very basic system is that it's what's taught on CS38/39. Why don't they teach more up to date techniques? too much variety IMO, it's easier to teach a basic standard (and cheaper) DdRT set-up and make sure the trainees are competent, if they pass assessment they'll no doubt go on to more up to date/advanced techniques based on what their colleagues use or what they see on Youtube. IMO

Mine, Triumph Scrambler 900 1988 GSXR 750 Slingshot 1987 FZR750 Suzuki DR650S

I have one and it's been fine so far but it hasn't had much use. I'd say they definitely need some hours on them to get them run in properly as mine seems to be better every time I use it. I'm running a 12" bar had it buried in an ash and it coped just fine. Starts easy but needs to be properly warmed up, let it tick over for a bit rather than revving the crap out of it. Once warmed up it restarts no problem even if it's been sitting switched off while I get myself into the tree. I start it and warm up myself rather than have someone warm it up for me before it's sent up. There are others here with vastly more experience of the 360TES than I have and the overwhelming majority seem happy enough.

Apart from the Lantra Workbooks there's the 2 Husqvarna books. Part 1 See Here Part 2 See Here The names of the various felling cuts may be different in the Husky books compared to the Lantra books. There are also the Jeff Jepson books but I think the Husky books are more EU relevant.

I've noticed that the Hilux is considered to be reliable, very high mileage possible, at the same time they're considered overpriced, isn't the reliability what you're paying for. Keep it long term and it'll pay for itself, keep trading up and you don't loose as much, No? Not disputing what you're saying as I simply don't know. I was definitely going for a Ranger as they seem better equipped compared to the Hilux especially the mid range versions but ultimately I want long term durability/reliability and I've seen some reports of transmission problems (axles/gearbox) with the Ranger.