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R Mac

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Everything posted by R Mac

  1. Husky 550XP, 4.9kg/2.8k recommended min/max bar 13"-20" Echo 501SX, 4.7kg/2.57kW recommended min/max bar 16" - 20" Stihl 261, 5.2kg/2.9kW recommended min/max 13" - 18" (I'm sure it'll run 20" as it's more powerful than the other two. The 550XP offers the best compromise of power/weight. Just a suggestion, the only one I've actually used is the one I own, the 501SX.
  2. Well in that case congratulations, you won't have to make it up now while hoping your mates don't catch
  3. Seems like he's worried about build quality and/or what his mate thinks/has bought. I'll be happy to take it if the price is right as I have no reservations about build quality and DGAF what anyone else thinks
  4. R Mac

    Tiny echo!

    Good link there, It seems you can download all sorts of parts lists/manual etc from almost any brands website in almost any country apart from here in the UK. No surprise there really
  5. Tell us how you really feel I guess as I'm self employed and my wife graciously lets me think I'm the boss I could do as you do....... Kinda sorry I mentioned gloves now, I'm almost expecting the Chainsaw Glove Inquisitors to arrive, unexpectedly
  6. Yeah it's easier to just keep wearing chainsaw boots, not a problem just curious more than anything. Are these the ones you mean? http://www.treekit.com/tirol-juchten.html
  7. So in theory you could wear steel toe boots and chainsaw gaiters?
  8. Agree, was using one a few weeks ago, had it on 28", nice saw, feels lighter than it is even on 28" and I'm about 10 1/2 stone soaked, easy starter hot or cold. I don't have a whole lot of experience of different saws but I know damn well if it's working with you or against you.
  9. Couldn't agree more I think I've seen that video. Yeah stuff isn't built to last, Wesoc and AFAIK Whites will take your boots back and completely rebuild them as long as the leg part is intact, so a complete new sole, midsole and upper, can't see any of the chainsaw boot makers offering that. I suppose the reality is that we get crap because we accept poor quality and put form (and a manufacturers logo) before function. Look at all the boots with multiple coloured panels, that just means they can use smaller cheaper sections of leather but they sell it as 'style'. Give me a break (rant temporarily suspended )
  10. I don't disagree but being a newbie I hadn't really questioned the wearing of chainsaw gloves as generally I'd be wearing gloves anyway for protection against thorns/wire rope etc etc. Having had a pair of £30 + chainsaw gloves fall apart in a couple of months and having read on here that quite a few don't wear them I probably won't bother just as soon as my new pair have fallen apart. I don't wear chainsaw gloves when climbing although I still generally wear gloves of some description (which fall apart in days rather than months)
  11. The reason I ask is mainly down to my belief that chainsaw boots as such are over priced and underbuilt, so many threads on here about boots in a forestry enviornment falling apart in a matter of months, Wesco or Whites boots are vastly better built from vastly better leather (I have a pair of Wesco Jobmaster and the leather is at least 3 times as thick as anything I've seen on chainsaw boots and the Vibram sole is proper stitched on) In the end if it has to be chainsaw boots then I'll use them, I wear chainsaw gloves after all, just curious. edit; Not considering using caulks
  12. Quick question, you can run a risk assessment and decide against gloves, you can do the same regarding whether or not to climb & cut with type A or Type C trousers, so.. Whats the deal with boots?
  13. Either or, if you're selling the 620SX I'd be interested but you'll need to post it as I can't collect.
  14. I got my tickets last year, 30,31,32,38 & 39, I wish I'd done it 10 years earlier, then I'd have been the same age you are now. Don't look back, look forward
  15. For forestry type work? I don't actually own a pair but they tick all the boxes for me, Goretex liner - If you must have a waterproof membrane it's the only one to have IMO unless you can get eVent or perhaps Sympatex. Personally I'd go without a membrane given the choice. Vibram Sole - Doesn't get any better, again IMO One Piece Upper - The best and the only thing that puts me off Pfanner Tirol Fighters, they have a seam along the side of the foot, stitched and riveted but still a seam, if it wasn't a weak spot they wouldn't have rivetted it. Class 2 cut protection - well you may as well have class 2 everything else being equal The only thing I can see that would make me stick with the Stihl Advance GTX is that the rubber rand runs all the way around the foot on the Stihl boot rather than just at the toe and heel. I'm not a Stihl user, the boots were chosen solely on spec. I'd go for the Hiax in black if it was me.
  16. When I'm working for a client I mean fairly regular work for one person sourced by me and run under my trading name/insurance etc, subby is when I do work for a tree care company, personally sourced 'One off' jobs I'd class as, well to be honest i'm not sure what I class them as, jobs perhaps?
  17. Hi can I ask for some clarification on the sub contractor issue? I'm self employed with insurance, CS 30, 31, 32, 38, 39, have all my own equipment including saws, use my own fuel, nothing is supplied to me but I get regular work from one client ( I have and still sub for another guy) I work 3 days most weeks for my main client but not every week, (some weeks I work 2 days or maybe none as I'll go to the other guy) and start and finish the same time as the permanent employees for the main client. I basically don't want to be employed as an employee, had too many years of that in my previous job. While I have the tickets I don't have experience not seeking advice on day rates, just on whether I can be forced to be an employee rather than self employed. Thanks.
  18. I'd use it, the one currently on my 501SX isn't much different and I haven't considered replacing it yet. I've just bought 2 x Rototech but even then I still wouldn't throw them away while they still have life in them. To the witness marks for me, there's plenty of life if you use a file, on a grinder it might be different.
  19. A real beauty, don't have a McCulloch myself but my day will come If I get a 10-10 I'm done with vintage saws.
  20. Look forward to seeing some pics, any chance of a video?

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