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R Mac

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Everything posted by R Mac

  1. If it's leaning would you use a snatch block?
  2. My mistake, you're right that the Danish Pie Cut, also known as the Safe Corner method is used to allow a section (corner) of holding wood prior to inserting a wedge and then removing the final corner of holding wood, but according to the Lantra workbook used for upright, forward weighted or backward weighted trees, not sure why the make a distinction between Weightedand Leaning
  3. So no one recommending a Hilux I'm looking at getting a crew cab myself, had a short list of Navarra, Ranger or Hilux, ruled out the Navarra and was leaning towards the Ranger but then thought that I'd maybe be better with a Hilux.
  4. If they called a 'Split Level cut' a 'Dogs Tooth' they're wrong, Split Level Cut, the one that allows you to get the felling lever in, used on Backward leaning Trees. Not to be confused with the 'Step Cut' (I frequently said I was doing a Step Cut when what I meant was a Split Level. Dogs Tooth Cut/Back Strap Cut, (all the same cut, different names, called Dogs Tooth Cut in the Lantra CS-31 Workbook) used on forward leaning trees to reduce/prevent a Barbers Chair. Danish Pie Cut/Double V Cut again same thing, called Double V Cut in the Lantra CS-31 workbook, again used on forward leaning trees to reduce/prevent a Barbers chair.
  5. I thought you only bored in the gob if the diameter was greater than twice the length of the bar so you don't end up with an uncut section in the middle where the bore cuts from each side don't meet, no?
  6. That's a split level cut IIRC you bore in and cut back from the hinge to leave 1/5 diameter of the stem uncut at the back then cut the 'strap' from the back at 45deg down to meet the bore cut.
  7. Did he do a Dogs tooth cut? looked like a regular large felling cut to me. Looked like his back cut was way too high, a good 6" higher than the back of the gob and the hinge was too heavy which was probably why even with the degree of lean he was having to wedge it.
  8. Yeah was taught when I did CS-31, there's an alternative cut, the double V cut, it's shown before the dog tooth cut in the CS-31 (Felling up to 380) workbook.
  9. :lol: about sums it up doesn't it
  10. I'll take reliability and durability at the expense of half a kg extra weight and a bit less power but then I'm from the generation that expected things to last and be user repairable. Lightweight/high performance/long term durability, pick any 2
  11. In a word, No. You need to put them through CS training, that implies they didn't come to you seeking additional training. You want them trained, you pay, they don't use their holiday entitlement to facilitate your needs. You knew what their qualifications were when you employed them, if your business needs have changed then it's hardly your employees fault. I suspect you weren't an employee when you done your training so the training was almost entirely for your own benefit. Completely irrevelant. IMO.
  12. I have a pair, great boots IMO, out of the box comfortable for me and actually breathable due to them using Goretex rather than some generic breathable crap. Word of warning they're big fitting, I reckon my size 9 are more like 10. I couldn't get them locally so went mail order but couldn't be bothered to send them back, if possible try before you buy.
  13. Splashproof may well be good enough, I think to class as waterproof they need to withstand being submersed.
  14. These any use? a bit cheaper than Zarges but not sure how waterproof they are, shouldn't be hard to make a waterproof seal using silicone sealant. Defender Aluminium Storage Boxes
  15. Good information on SRT redirects here SRT Series No.3
  16. The problem with regular car type footpumps is that they're designed to deliver a high volume at low pressure hence the short stroke/wide cylinders compared to the long stroke/narrow cylinder on the track pump. I can't say I really understand or at any rate put it in words why one does one thing and the other does something else but it does Using gas cartridges? I'll assume that's co2 cartridges, you can get tyre inflators that use regular co2 cartridges but not sure they would deliver the volume/pressure you need, you can get them for mtb tyres so presumably they would work ok. See Here Combined Pump & co2 inflator 160psi, See Here
  17. You might be better with a Track Pump designed for roadie bikes, they're designed to deliver high pressure/low volume, over 200psi. See Here
  18. General All Round Glove - Wells Lamont, Here or if you have long fingers try Cutter leather gloves, Here. The Wells Lamont are slightly thicker and have a flat seam along the index finger which is nicer although you wouldn't notice if you didn't compare both gloves. Alternatively if you want a close fitting cuff theres the Delta Venitex with elasticated cuff, Here Plenty of alternatives from Delta, See Here Cold weather - Parweld Lined leather Gloves, Here Wire Rope handling/Brambles etc - Parweld 16" Welders gauntlet. Here For all the above I went a size down (L rather than XL) as I figure they'll stretch a bit and I wanted them as close fitting as possible. Hope this helps
  19. So experienced tree workers don't get hurt? Interesting......... I think the point that Flat Tyre is making is that there is more potential danger in tree work than there is e.g. stacking shelves in a supermarket, that would explain the requirement for training/assessment/on site risk assessment/PPE/Insurance and would go some way to explaining why the HSE consider Tree Surgery to be one of the/the most dangerous job in the UK. Of course with training and experience the risks of injury are reduced, the actual job doesn't get less dangerous but we strive to operate safely in such an enviornment. IMO
  20. I'd guess you aren't doing anything wrong but I'd suggest the same approach might not be as effective in the next 20 years. Older saws were pretty tolerant probably due to not needing to meet stringent emission regs, we didn't worry half as much (probably due to the absence of t'net) fuel probably had less chemicals. I have 3 old saws, 2 mid to late 60's and an early 70's, they'd been sat for at least 5 years, in fact the 2 older ones had sat longer probably closer to 15 years. They all bar the 70's one started with little more than a carb clean and fresh fuel and in one case the ignition points cleaned and set. Significantly the one that proved the most difficult had been left with fuel in the tank/carb and the diaphragms had pinholed most likely due to the ethanol in the fuel that I'd used last time it was running. The diaphragm was puckered up like a prune yet the 2 older saws the diaphragms looked perfect.
  21. R Mac

    Tiny echo!

    Funny when I ordered my 360TES I phoned the order through to make sure it came with a 12" bar, when it arrived it had a 14". E-mailed them to ask why and if they could supply a 12"/chain, never had a reply so was a bit miffed at them, especially as I'd previously bought a 420 off them and a fair bit of climbing kit along with the 360. Other than that I can't fault the service but if they're reading this, guys can you please make sure that the saw is dispatched with the correct spec as ordered or at least let the customer know before dispatching that the requested option isn't available.
  22. Good post, when I bought my top handle I waited until I had my CS-39 qualification, e-mailed the dealer and asked if they wanted me to send a copy of my certificate but they said no as ECHO don't require them to do so. When the saw arrived there was an 8" x 6" sticker on the box that said "Warning, For Use By Trained Tree Service Operators Only"
  23. Hi Matty, on a different subject, your PM inbox is full.
  24. Morning Stephen, no problem and no need to be embarrassed, you came back and squared things and thats something to be proud of. I've done the same, argued my point at length (can you believe it LOL) and then realised that I actually agreed. Cheers

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