R Mac

Cheers Bob, I'll keep that in mind but due to limited finances I want to get the basics sorted 1st.

Good advice, I'm convinced already although I've already done CS32, no point in adding a pulley for mechanical advantage and then needing to winch X2 the amount of cable when the bigger winch can do it at X1. Snatch Block, I can't get anything at the rated WLL that comes close to the X18 wire rope dia, what would you recommend, something like this? 4 ton Snatch Block or will this be good enough for a re-direct given that the cable isn't likely to be running around the pulley at an acute angle. 8 Ton Recovery Snatch Block Regarding the shear pins, they were already in the 'Shopping Basket' As for the strops, for all the difference in price I'd just go for 3 x 4 ton strops, keeps set-up simple, also 4 ton bow shackles.

Hi Jon, thanks, I though I had it pretty much sorted out but had started to over think it and got myself confused, I needed to write it down to sort it all out. You know how it is p.s. I'll take this opportunity to wish you and family a Happy and Safe New Year.

I don't agree with that, there are brand new saws that simply won't tickover reliably and given that they're being supplied by a variety of dealers you can't attribute blame to the guy who PDI'd the saw. If the cause is worn piston rings on brand new saws then that's an even bigger problem. Manufacturers have in the past and will continue in the future to put products on the market (not just chainsaws) with problems that didn't show up until they started to get used in the real world, the dealers and the service mechanics are then left with the problem of trying to sort inherent faults for justifiably annoyed customers.

Try to stop smoking Tone down my language Control my temper Don't go on a downer and take it out on everyone else Be nice to my wife always Be thankful for the things I do have First on the list will make the rest a challenge

I've been looking at eye to eye strops and endless loop strops so am I right in thinking that, 2000kg Eye to Eye, Basket hitched = WLL 4000kg (i.e. one leg each side of object) 2000kg Eye to Eye, Chokered = WLL 1600kg 2000kg Eye to Eye, straight pull = 2000kg WLL 2000kg Endless Loop, Basket Hitched = WLL 4000kg (i.e. 2 legs each side of object) 2000kg Endless Loop, Chokered = WLL 1600kg 2000kg Endless Loop, straight pull = 2000kg WLL If I have a winch rated at 1000kg on a straight pull I need 2 strops rated at at least 1000kg, if I add a pulley for a 2-1 mechanical advantage or re-direct I'd need at least 1 strop rated at 2000kg to attach the pulley to the object. My pulley/snatch block also needs rated at x2 minimum the WLL of the winch. In effect if I intend to use a snatch block with a winch rated at 1000kg WLL then my snatch block and ALL (for simplicity) my strops need to be rated at X2 minimum the WLL of the winch. The actual winches I was looking at were the ACE winches, I can't decide on whether to go for the 800kg version (1250kg WLL Straight Pull) or the 1600kg (2500kg WLL Straight pull) The 800kg with a pulley will give me 2500kg pull, the 1600kg will give me 5000kg pull, so what would you choose, more power at the expense of more weight or lighter weight at the expense of more pulling power. Assuming you choose the lighter, less powerful 800kg winch would you buy strops/pulley and shackles rated for the more powerful winch on the basis that if you decided later to add the more powerful winch you could still use the same hardware? I'm thinking of getting, 800kg winch 3000kg/3 ton Strops x 3 6500kg/6.5 ton Shackles x 3 8000kg/8 ton Snatch Block (to gain a larger pulley size, still not X 18 the rope diameter sheave) That should cover me if at a later date I decided to add the more powerful winch, I'd only need to add x 3 stronger strops, 5000kg/5 ton?

Agreed, that's the route I'd go down. It doesn't look like it's fixable quickly and if you need a saw now, well a replacement seems the best option. As Peatff said use the broken one for spares or alternatively list it on ebay either as is or break it down and sell of the parts as spares.

I guess he means that the original ring is taking up space on the bridge which means the swivel has less available space on whatever side the ring is on. e.g original ring on the right of the swivel = swivel can't travel to the very end of the bridge. I would have though it doesn't make a great deal of difference as he's probably only loosing about 1/2" of space on the bridge.

I bought all my saws online, once I get the saw I build up a spares kit, plug, filter, brake band, recoil starter spring, pull cord, spare chain etc. If the saw fails then those are the things I can repair (on site if required) other than that a local dealer isn't going to have it fixed any faster. Assuming I have to leave what I'm doing to take the saw to the dealer and go back to collect it I'll have wasted a day. I have a back up saw anyway and if my saw lets me down on a Saturday afternoon a dealer won't have it sorted by Monday morning, there's a chance I will. Horses for Courses.

Alternatively go for the old CS-550, it's an older design but still as powerful

Hi, have you tried the Stihl Advance GTX? I have a pair and would say they run slightly bigger than the suggested size. I can highly recommend them, all day comfortable from new, done my CS38/39 in them even though they're quite bulky at the toe. They're class 2 boots and being Gore-Tex are actually breathable as opposed to the propriety breathable membranes which are by and large useless. https://honeybros.com/Item/Stihl_Advance_GTX_Chainsaw_Boots

Cheers Shavey, I'll do that, might be a couple of days before I get the chance though.

I got mine at the weekend, brilliant, checked the tickover on one of my modern saws by pointing it in the general direction of the sparkplug, I also tried it on my old Pioneer, I had to clip it on but again no problem. Item and service highly recommended

I can't seem to find the ad but went down to my parents, had a bit of a rummage around and found this, Not sure what the deal is as it has 2 right hand cutters but in any case it's a bit short I also found a used drive sprocket/clutch drum for a Danarm, probably for a 110 or 125 and 0.404 pitch which I had thought might fit my saw, no chance as it isn't even close.

Ahh, I misread the analogy,

You need to go North http://cdn.rockfax.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/NWC-Cover.jpg I'm having difficulty figuring out the 'Football/Rugby' analogy. :-)

I found the need to use auto locking karabiners strange, I understood why once I started tree climbing, generally in rock climbing you attach to the rope and your screwlock (assuming you haven't tied directly to your harness) stays put rather than being continually attached and removed. The use of auto locking karabiners everywhere rather than plain gate. Also the miniumum diameter for prussiks is greater in the arb industry, I always used 5.5mm dyneema. Using static (meaning low or no stretch) rather than dynamic (meaning stretch = shock absorption) rope, generally having a top anchor rather than climbing above your running belay. Self belay isn't common in rock climbing either. It isn't difficult to get to grips with tree climbing techniques it's just that things are different, how much probably depends on when you started rock climbing. IMO there's a greater risk in rock climbing if you happen to be leading the climb, you can be 5m above your last running belay, fall and you're looking at a 10m + drop (guess why you use a dynamic rope) and hoping your running belay holds. There's a world of difference between a climbing wall and a rock face.

What he said, what's done is done.

Cheers GTS, definitely sounds like the Dolmar would suit me, I much prefer torque, I'm not keen on screamers.

Hi Shavey, a DD8F mk111, I tried a .404 on it and thought that was what I needed but apparently the DD8F used a 7/16", I have a handbook for the later 110, 110 automatic and 125 mk11 automatic and they're supposed to run .404 With the .404/.063 (Oregon Type 59) the chain rides up on the sprocket, there's wear on the sprocket certainly but no worse on my Pioneer which has no problem with .404. A possible alternative route would be to try a sprocket off a Danarm 110/125, if that fits the DD8F then I can run a regular .404 Both saws have solid tip. I'll assume to run .404 everything (Bar/Chain/Drive Sprocket) needs to be A1+ with no wear, I have a bit of wear on the sprocket bushing so will measure it up and see about getting a replacement made. I have a potential source for some used chain and possibly a sprocket but it'll be start of next week before I'll know for sure.

Hi folks, just been working on getting an old Danarm saw running, the saw is sorted but I need a length of 7/16" chain. Does anyone have a length of this or know anywhere that I might be able to get some. As long as there's some life left in it it would be fine, it'll only be needed to demo the saw. Thanks.

Agreed, sometimes we're just happier with a particular brand for reasons that can't easily be defined, that applies not only to chainsaws. Echo Dolmar, Dolmar Echo, might as well toss a coin, ok make it best of 3 LOL

Well I have the CS-701 that will be replaced by the CS-8002 or 9010, also; Husqvarna 137E Echo CS-450ES Echo CS-360TES I'm tempted by the CS-8002 on the basis that I already have Echo saws but tempted by the Dolmar as I'd hate to be one of those guys who have only ever used one make and think everything else is rubbish in spite of the fact that they've never held a saw from another brand let alone tried it. Not that you'd find anyone like that on here No opinions yet on the Stihl? maybe that needs a thread of it's own.

All this talk of torque and old school build quality is pleasing me. I just know I'd be happy with either. Thanks to all who offered their opinion, it's appreciated.

Having been the victim of a theft myself years ago (my 1st motorbike, had it less than a month, no theft cover as couldn't get it on 1st insurance) you have my sympathy. Sad to say the country is f****d up thanks to an excess of bleeding heart liberals. No idea what the solution is as the police are at best inept, the courts too lenient unless of course you attempt to protect your own property or yourself for that matter, then the b******s will be down on you like a ton of bricks. Makes me mad