IronMike

Ah you see, here in is the problem. I cut trees down on my lonesome most of the time, so all I do is think about new chainsaws! ?

I'm going to have to rethink my saw situation I reckon. Got two 555's which are reliable and simple, my Mk2 550 and a Spud sorted 390xp. Think I need to ditch one or both of the 555's and fill the void with a 572.

I’ve been slamming some big old trees this week with my 550 mk2, and it is just awesome. It’s a big upgrade from the mk1 I reckon. In all honesty I should have been using something a bit bigger like 372 but it coped with the extra I asked of it with ease. Im sure you’ll enjoy your new one Kay 9.

I finally got to unleash my Spudded 390 recently..... It was sensational! Cheers Spud! ?

Go on, humour me and put a price up. I have a figure in mind, it would be intersting to see how close I am!

That's a beauty!

Hi Pete. I guess I just fancied something different really, and I had been looking at Big J’s new venture and really liked it. There was a gap in the market locally for a compact forwarder and I knew there was work to be had, so after some research and deliberations I opted for the Logbullet. Price was a fairly major factor, and it was very reasonable in comparison to others on the market. I did a bit of research into alpine tractor and trailer but thought the Logbullet would be much more efficient overall.

I’ve got a Mk2, and have had a Mk1 previously. The new model is a beast! Performs way above its expected level. I run an 18 inch bar on mine, and it still rips it like a real one!

That doesn’t sound like fun mate! The worst stuff I’ve had to deal with was thin slimy Ash branch wood. Literally a few degrees down on a slope and it just slid off the bunk, nightmare.

Cheers! It’s quite a photogenic machine, it looks well in most photos. As for the original Logbullet master Big J, he will be busy I’m sure!

Just thought I'd share some photos of the machine in action. It's been a great 6/7 months getting used to the machine and it's capabilities. There have been a few bumps in the road, but nothing that slowed me down too much. I've had a lot of positive messages and enquiries about the machine too. And I'm pretty much stacked out with work too for the foreseeable future, so very happy with that.

The high stumps would give me nightmares! ?

I’m in exactly the same boat. Took mine back the dealer I got it for to be told they could get some new parts, but it would be £19. I said no thanks, and replaced the faulty bits with some spares from my old helmet.

V10! ?? Superb choice mate, enjoy!

One thing I will add if going for the battery version.... Don't forget to top up your chain oil! It is very easy to forget as you don't ever reach for a combi can as it does take petrol. I've known them be ran dry of oil on a few occasions, so try and get into the habit of always checking!

I spent years working in retail selling waterproof coats and outdoor gear. There are a few rules to abide by when it comes to cleaning and reproofing garments. As mentioned, make sure you wash it on a cool setting, with the machine cleaned beforehand of all “normal” detergent. Pure soap, lux flakes etc are fine, but never use the stuff you clean your regular clothes with. Nikwax, Grangers and others all do specific products for these type of garments. Some are wash in, some are spray on. If you have a jacket or trousers with a drop lining inside, it’s important not to use the wash in reproofer. It’ll waterproof the lining as well, which you don’t want! You need to use the spray on type for these. If you have just a shell type garment the wash in one is best. One of the other major things to remember is the application of heat to help make the DWR (durable water repellency) return. This is the beading effect you see when the water just runs off. It doesn’t last unfortunately, and the jacket or trousers will hold the water on the outer fabric. This makes them cold, and heavy, but a blast in the tumble dryer on a cool heat will help restore it.

I think I might get a G coupler. Does look good Eddie. As an owner operator I was sick of manual greasing, and became very envious when I saw how good the battery ones were. I take the time to clean and check the tightness of all the grease nipples before giving them the appropriate dose!

My dads mate had a V10 Touareg, my dad said it had so much grunt it felt like when he planted the go fast pedal it would just spin the earth rather then spin the tyres!

I’m a Dewalt man too, got Impact driver, cordless drill and grease gun. Can swap batteries between the three and all relatively cheap and cheerful.

Greetings! When I started out, I had no qualifications/tickets at all. I dragged brash and fed the chipper etc and learned on the job. It’s a good way to get experience as you get to see everything that’s happening. With regards to getting your chainsaw ticket, it’s a bit like getting your driving license. Once you get it, you then learn how to do things properly! Getting you cross cutting and maintenance ticket and felling trees below 380mm would be more than adequate for the majority of groundie work. It’s all I had for years, and I got by fine. Trailer ticket is also very appealing to prospective employers. Having someone who can tow is very useful indeed, as sometimes you have to take several vehicles towing a variety of things (chipper, digger, grinder, Avant etc) so having it would be a big plus. the name of the game I found was to become invaluable to your work colleagues. Being able to think ahead as to what might need doing (fueling saws, warming chipper up, getting rigging gear sorted etc) and also making sure everything gets done, so not shirking responsibility like raking up etc. Turn up on time, with your bait bag packed, your mobile in the van or your pocket until break times, along with your smokes if you’re that way inclined, all your gear and a smile and you’ll go far!

I can second the vote for the Krapan or whoever it’s spelt. Remote control is awesome, and it is very well made and looks and feels solid. Done a few days with Mr Git and his one and was suitably impressed.

Sounds to me like the little things have generally adder nuff. I’ll fetch my coat...... ?

That's commitment! I would probably have ripped the Buffalo off my back if I had to wear it for work! ? I think it ultimately boils down (no pun intended) to the individual user. I know that like you, the moment I put a waterproof layer on, the heat rises. I really struggle to cope with that, and have worked in the rain with no coat on plenty of times as it means I can complete the job. If I'd kept my coat on I'd have lost my marbles. Yet I know some lads who will wear one all day and be fine. They do the same work as me, but I guess I just run hot?

Absolutely agree mate. If the moisture level outside the jacket is higher than inside, it can't simply dissappear. When I was prattling on about the others being less breathable I maybe should have said they were just a lot hotter. I know the moment I put the Harkie smock on I felt like a roast in the bag chicken. I was so hot, and nearly straight away. The moment I started to graft it was too much, I'd rather be wet from the rain than boiled alive. I found the Goretex the least warm is mayne a better statement.

They're on offer on Jonesies this weekend I think. I just splashed some cash on a set of waterproofs from the Magic Mountain sample sale. Got a full set of Mountain Equipment Makalu ones for £275, which is half price. 3 ply Goretex, bomb proof outer fabric. They are proper mountaineering ones, and I'm keeping them exclusively for when I'm sat on the Logbullet. In terms of work ones, I've been thrashing a few Berghaus Goretex coats I got off a mate who used to work for them. I have tried various others over the years (Harkie being one) and just find them absolutely boiling. I'm not saying Goretex isn't hot, but it's the best of a bad bunch in terms of breathability, and hasn't failed me at keeping rain out. The issue with the others is they keep rain out but keep the sweat in!