TheHungrySquirrel
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Everything posted by TheHungrySquirrel
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M guessing that's new top end then?
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Got a 3120 I got at apf last year that's done maybe 2 hours cutting tops. Snapped a piston stop and had to remove piston and pot but no damage to bore or base gasket. Saws starts and runs fine from cold but once up to temp won't start, either with or without choke it pops but dies immediately. It's getting fuel and spark and my dealer reckons it may be inlet side damage to the pot but surely not on a new saw??
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Good news Phil 👍🏻
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Had to strip my 3120 after burring the piston Phil and that's knackered now. Ran for a bit and then stopped and think it's scored on inlet side. You getting nothing when pulling it?
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Have you checked the inside of the pot for any scoring? May be inlet side that's gone
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Anybody using these on lanyards similar to CE lanyard setup? I recently purchased one through treekit which had lumps and hard spots on the rope so they swapped it but I still have the same lumps and bumps. Loading it doesn't remove them and it links hard when forming a Prussik. I contacted teufelberger directly who agreed they had seen this before and sent me a new one but it's the same 😒 Am I being paranoid or has anyone else had this??
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True it was the shoddy quality stop that I have snapped others of previously in other saws. Just hoping it's not a new top end as it's about £250
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I had about 2 hours on it total then used a stihl piston stop (normally use string) that snapped and popped out the exhaust port. Burring the front edge of the piston, both me and the local mechanic agreed I could strip it and file the burr off. It ran fine, got up to temp and was great, so off I went for a day of milling to make one 3m cut then the thing wouldn't start 😂 only thing I could figure is scoring to the pot/piston on inlet side giving less compression. So it's in the shop for a strip down on what a brand new saw
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This would be to go onto a logosol m8. I'm a husky guy with most other saws but having a bunch of bad times with a new 3120 is putting me off a little
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Thank you sir.
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I have a wide foot and find the reds comfy. Although a little low on the ankle. I think the evo 2 is slightly higher
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Nobody taken a newer 661 apart??
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Have the red clip n go and they are awesome. In trees the slim toe gets into crooks and let you use your feet more, the hass clip point makes it easy for that. Just a shame I can't get my spikes to sit properly on them or they would be my All round boot
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Can't find this anywhere. New 661 inny or outy clutch??
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150,550 and 372
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I had that idea but use it for stumping with so it maybe sees 50/50 use milling and crosscutting.
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You mean regarding bar height agrimog? Need to find someone local with a 395 to bolt to the mill I guess and check clearance.
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So I got a great deal on an m8 a while back and used my 372 a few times but now want to get some larger stuff on it. My 3120 break handle fouls the uprights so considering a 395 to run exclusively on the m8. I know the stihls are recommended for it but I have bars and chains for the husky setup
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My 160 collects a lot of crap under the black roller box cover. Worth a look as it can stop the rollers sitting right dowb
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They have been in and been 'reset' apparently?!?! Trouble is they can only start and run them. It's in the real world they suck with cutting out issues.
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Anybody else running 16/17 year 550s Had two for the past 6 months and there terrible, constant cutting out, poor starting and bogging in cuts. Worst thing is cutting out when going for the backcut. I'm not after the whole stihl/husky debate as I have some older 550 that run fine.
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Give dave at stiles and bates a call they hold the best stock of timber I know.
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Try a hardwax oil that will be water resistant and food safe
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Much easier. Team it with a knee ascender as well and your away. Just having the foot makes ascending in open air so much easier
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Neat idea and gives you a point to clip the gimp harness to 😜
