GA Groundcare

Those switches are only like £35. You can usually feel when they are faulty.

You can get a laser tacho gun for a few quid, tip'ex the PTO shaft, run the tractor up and see what revs 540 equates to. Then mark your throttle accordingly.

I went from a Corsa van years ago on a personal policy to a car and it wasn't transferable. Although that was probably 15 years ago. My personal NCB lapsed after just having business insured vehicles for the past 8 years. I started a new personal policy at 32 with no NCB a couple of years ago for a weekend car (insurance group 20) and it was only £200. It'll be worth getting an online quote with no NCB, see whether its actually worth going through the hassle of saving them. Ash

@Pete B Is the king of backstories!

Morning, I can't help with any back story on this machine but if you require any support / assistance / parts going forwards drop us a line. www.gagroundcare.com / 01380 828863

Is it just a +12v feed for the stress control signal?

The later bushes have grooves in them the allow the grease to escape. A couple of pumps of grease a month is usually plenty to lubricate that nylon bush.

There is an older 13/75 on eBay with solid wheels and a newer one also on eBay with pneumatic wheels, so definitely available. Give Green Plant or Spectrum Plant a call. They're both helpful TW dealers.

What chipper / chute is it? The best way is probably to cut the chute in half, weld a "base plate" to each side, hinges at the front and an over centre Protex style clamp at the rear.

Should you wish for a new CS100 18hp we have a couple in stock ready to roll. CS is off road tow yes, as are most of that configuration.

The CS80 is about 1k cheaper than the CS100 18hp in round numbers. Those B&S 18hp V twin electric start engines cost more alone than some of the cheaper chippers! Isn't there a saying about copying is the best form of flattery....

HI, we are a GreenMech dealer and based in Wiltshire. We have a new CS100 18hp in stock at £4,450 plus vat. They are expensive compared to some makes / models with smaller engines yes, but they do hold their value. For example we just sold a used 2015 CS100 18hp this week for £2,750 plus vat. If you are near us you're welcome to have a demo. From a back up point of view we have all the spares on the shelf. 3 year full parts and labour warranty. Finance available. Noticed your comments on some models that they are towable, the CS100 is also towable. The prop stand leg at the front flips around to form a tow bar. If you look at GM's website you should be able to find an image. The CS100 is also made in the UK The high discharge spout is great for chipping into a big pile, builder bags, trailers or wheelie bins.

If you remove the moving feed roller carriage you can cut about 10mm out of the "chassis" by where the fixed roller is allowing the moving feed roller to close further. We have got them down to 5-10mm gap. Measure five times cut once... Happy to take a photo if it helps.

Things to look out for... * Brakes / running gear - What are the shoes like, are they worn out? If so then they've probably taken the drums out also, brake cables sticking? Wheel bearings ok? Hitch coupling not cracked, bent or generally worn out. Bringing this whole area up to legal / serviceable condition can be 1k. Are the tyres wearing uneven across the tread? If so could point to bent / worn axle. * Engine - Does it run well, start well and not smoke. If diesel check the radiator isnt blocked solid. Kubota engines will crack the cylinder head if overheated. Tell tale sign of this is hard to start when cold and or compression bubbles in coolant system. * Feed rollers - In good condition with minimal damage, the pivot points / bearings (make depending) all functioning ok? Does the stress control system work ok? You can usually test this by running the chipper full speed and then dropping the revs back on the throttle until the feed rollers stop. Then increase the revs again so they start. * Flywheel - Any damage, release the belt tension and check for play on the bearings with a lever bar. if there is movement on the bearings make sure it is actually bearing play and not the flywheel shaft moving on the inside of the bearing. If this is the case your flywheel shaft is probably worn. Check for cracking around the flywheel itself. If the flywheel bearings sound rough at low revs and get better with increased revs then they're on the way out. * General - Why are they selling it? Ask yourself why is that person replacing a perfectly good chipper? Have they had if from new? If they have had work done by a dealer ask to see history, or call the dealer who did the work.

HI Spoonz, what are you looking for? We have a used GreenMech Arborist 130 23hp Honda petrol and Arborist 150 diesel in stock. Both have had extensive work carried out for resale and come with warranty.

When GreenMech ran out of hydraulic feed roller motors in the middle of Covid we sent an old motor to our local hydraulic pump supplier to match up. They couldn't get near the price due to the large quantities GreenMech purchase in. It is worth pricing one up from TimberWolf and not just assume a hydraulic supplier is cheaper Edit: Can't find the motors listed on Green Plants web shop but they are on Spectrum Plants web shop for £248 ex vat (no stock) Green Plant will help you out

It is about 150kg. Shouldn't want a nose weight much heavier on any vehicle or trailer. If the nose weight is to great then the trailer is probably to short... If overloaded on the nose weight think about how much weight is being transferred through the trailers hitch coupling and its 4x M12 bolts!

Most likely the 40amp power fuse loose in the holder. If it looses power for a split second the machine will turn itself off. Move the fuse in the holder and its subsequent two wires.

I see quite a bit of 6BT stuff kicking around the various forums / Facebook at the moment. I'd like to drive one to see what its like but I just don't see how they can be very good in a Defender. They're physically a massive lump weighing in at over twice a normal engine (500kg) and 215hp at a measly 2,500 rpm. Tuneable to bigger HP no doubt and big torque as standard but it's going to handle like a boat. If going down the big modified conversion route then LS3 has to be the answer, 400+hp and 200kg weight still with more torque than you'll ever need. I would be very tempted on the M&D 3.7 V6 Ford engine that utilises the 2.4 TDCI gearbox and clutch. 295hp. Or M57 straight 6 BMW if wishing to stay diesel.

If the 300 TDI you're looking at is cheap enough you could justify dropping a recon 2.8 300 TDI from M&D engineering. Probably do the conversion in a weekend no sweat and a very straight forward swap. International HS 2.8L & 300 Tdi | Motor & Diesel Engineering (Anglia) Limited (mdengineering.co.uk)

We had a "tuned" 200 TDI Defender 90 pick up for moving chippers about, it was fine for local road tow deliveries but the moment you start towing heavier stuff up long hills it was painful. Almost to the point you'd be better off taking the tracked chipper off and start towing the Landy 😆 Sold the 200 TDI a couple of years ago and bought a 2.4 TDCI 90. which will accelerate in 6th up long dual carriageway hills with a GreenMech SafeTrak on the back. Areas I know the 200TDI would be down in 2nd! Ok we have tuned our 2.4 TDCI now but even when standard it would have loads more go than the TD5 110 we just sold. 300 TDI's are great engines but rather gutless heavy towing even with a bunch of swanky bits fitted.

We have our own powder coating facilities. It is more expensive than spraying but will give you a hard wearing finish. Aerosol spraying doesn't really last all to long.

For a hard wearing & long lasting finish, you can't beat whipping the panels off and having them re powder coated. That's what we do on the GreenMechs we refurbish.

Often driven by legislation changes rather than manufactures themselves.

We are a GM main dealer and always have a can or two of brush on and aerosol, we buy that from eBay! It's alright for touch ups, we use a metal hammerite primer under it first. RAL6018 is the code.