spandit
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Everything posted by spandit
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In my workshop I have an old Esse oil burning range that I'm trying to convert to burning wood. Lit a fire in it yesterday with softwood and the top oven temperature went off the scale - over 300 degrees. Latest plan is to build a cob rocket stove inside it as would be nice to have some heat in there but not as much as that! Have wrecked the paint and the magnetic door catch has melted off. I'd imagine with the boiler full it would stay cooler but I have no way of plumbing it into anything
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I'm glad the public won't burn softwood as it means local tree surgeons often can't get rid of it and dump it round here. I find leylandii branch wood is pretty dense and burns for a long time. Currently burning a mixture of leylandii and Corsican pine and keeping toasty warm...
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Nothing, since I started stacking them in round piles
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Awesome. What paints did they use? Ideal for forest school
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Give him £20 as good will for a beer or two
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You can tap gently with a ball peen hammer and cut it out in situ, although on an aluminium part you need to be careful
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If you have the space to take loads of wood chip too then I find tree surgeons are often keen to get rid of it and often have a few logs too but it’s stuff that needs cutting, splitting and seasoning so hardly free. I’m in East Sussex and have a few regulars who get rid of waste which I use to mulch paths and trees but then I’m lucky to have the space and access
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I use petrol hand warmers, cheaper copies of the Zippo. I run them on Aspen 4T (cheaper than lighter fluid) and they’ll stay hot for a whole day
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I've constructed a Holzhausen as my other pallet log stores were all full. What I don't know is how are you supposed to use the wood once seasoned? By pulling logs off the pile you're damaging the structure or do I just cover with a tarp?
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Lose 10mm but don't cut it straight where your string is - cut it concave
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Had somebody turn up and speak to my mother in law before dumping some chip - just wanted to clarify something but don't know who it was. Very grateful for the chip and still hopeful for logs.
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I make it just over 3.6m but I'd want them a bit bigger than that
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I've got a load of used stock fencing going free if anyone wants it
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Wow! Cuts up to 4 inches!
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How cheap is cheap? What size inlet/outlet?
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I ignored your advice and made up a part to plug the hole anyway... Couldn't then start the tractor and eventually found the negative battery terminal clamp had cracked and needs replacing. Holding the cable on with pliers I got it started and valve still doesn't work as you predicted! No great pools of oil, fortunately. I'll be pumping some oil out to do some work on the hydraulics imminently so hopefully it will settle in the container and I can remove some of the water
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Not sure why plugging the port would make more mess but yes, I'll probably get this from FlowFit: https://www.flowfitonline.com/log-splitter-kits/log-splitter-parts/flowfit-1-bank-80-lmin-hydraulic-log-splitter-control-valve-with-auto-kick-out-zz005421 That oil was brand new in 1970, most of it is coming out of various places anyway so it's getting changed continuously Once I get all my hydraulics working properly and can stop the various leaks, I'll be putting fresh oil in - believe it or not, this was a whole 25l container of new oil but there was enough crap stored elsewhere in the system that it has all turned milky. I've asked the eBay seller for a partial refund. Unfortunately I paid cash on collection so don't have the PayPal protection. At least it wasn't vast money
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Bought a tractor mounted log splitter (don't know what make) and it didn't come with the right hoses to connect the valve up (Gresen 550) so I jerry rigged it into my loader valve block and it works fine, although a nuisance to have to walk round to the loader valves each time to split a log. Ordered the necessary hoses and adaptors which arrived yesterday but can't get it to work. I think the issue is that the valve is possibly for a single acting cylinder, despite having two outlet ports, because said ports are connected together internally (green arrow) so moving the lever in either direction causes fluid flow from both outlets (with no load on them, fluid flows out of them depending on valve position, i.e. lever up, top outlet, lever down, bottom outlet, lever neutral, no flow - you should see my barn floor!). Have I just been stiffed and given any old valve that he had lying around or is there a way to block this port? It's not threaded but I could tap a metal rod into it
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If only you were closer
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Made a lariat from steel cable and pulled them out with a farm jack. I'll reuse most of them for new trees
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Saw the thread and immediately thought comfrey. Failing that, gaultheria shallon has edible fruit.
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Thanks chaps. Think I'll try to take them out and fill in the holes.
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Quite a few of my alder have split their tubes which have now been removed. However, the wooden stakes are too tightly wedged to pull out by hand and I'm worried that if I pull them out with a jack I will leave a hole near the roots that some animal could get into and cause damage (vole). I'm also cautious of damaging the tree. Is it best to just cut them off at the base or should I persist in removing them?
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Cordyline
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I can take chip and logs for free here just outside Heathfield TN21
