TGB

Well that's manufacturer hype. The rules are, that engines only have to be tested and repeatable figures gained. Doesn't state the engine has to actually be in a working vehicle. So manufacturers regularly have the engine in question running in a test rig. Specially filtered air, pre lab tested fuel, engine already warmed to optimum temp. at start of mpg testing, new oil for each test, new filter for each test, no fuel wasted by friction driving wheels or hauling weight of an actual vehicle. The engines are rig run accelerating and decelerating to simulate a vehicle attaining specific speeds and staying there for a given time. So motorway/extra urban are tested at a constant speed. Urban on a collection of combined max. speeds, with min.-max.-min. revs. over a manufacturer chosen time. And combined is just an exercise in simple maths. Is it any wonder then, that you fail to attain the quoted manufacturer max. mpg. They don't say the vehicle is capable of x-mpg. They merely specify that the engine is capable of such. Ay. But not everyone could walk to work in 10mims. at a big store. Plus, not being outside, would drive you stir-crazy. But I take your valid point. If it were just money, stacking shelve often pay better.

My 545 is great on 15". Now I know Husky reckon it'll run an 18", I think it would be pushing the 545 somewhat on 18". Certainly the MS 260 is great on 16" and plenty happily run an 18" on them. I can't see the MS 261 being any different. Just make sure you keep the clutch bearing greased. If you could stretch to the H' 550XP, that would rip through anything you'll be cutting. Something to consider maybe, would be the Stihl MS 241 C-M. Lower power but comes standard with a 16" and cuts above its weight.

If you put small stuff, (less than 50mm) at the bottom, weigh it down with some larger stuff. Don't put small stuff, (75mm) at the top, as it'll rotate and jump about all over the place. If you've got bent logs, put them in the middle. Don't fill it higher than a foot from the top, as the wood regardless of size, will make the loose clamping bar bounce off the uprights. Positioning the horse on level ground is a must. While the ground conditions should preferably be firm, it doesn't do well on a solid surface near the start of cutting; the horse tends to wobble a little. Once you've done one full set of cuts, you'll have to clear the frame of wood. This tends to spread the cut wood in 360° and close to the horse. Thus making it awkward to get good footing to reload the frame with fresh logs. So to cut successive loads you'll either have to reposition the horse a few away or else do some strategic kicking of cut logs. Other than these points, it's a good handy piece of equipment. Which is light in weight, if a little awkward to carry more than a few tens of yards. Fast cutting for prepping charcoal wood.

As Stubby said, falling apart reports belong to the 540T XP. And apart from the rear AV, one has to at least bash them up to break them. As for the 545 failing, no reports of that. The 540T XP and 545 may share their first two numbers but that's where the similarities end. They are completely different saws, with completely different uses. I'm not just saying so because I own a 545. But they are a reliable saw; had one for a while now and have had no problems. When I was choosing, the MS261, (the 260 no longer being in production) did make my shortlist. But of Stihl, only the MS241 C-M made the short shortlist. What size wood are you going to be mainly cutting? What will the saw be replacing and with the old saw, was there ever the feeling, that you needed more saw or less saw?

Only chain's I ever cleaned, were cycle and motor cycle chains. And only if I'd been riding through gritty mud or water filled ditches or all day in dust. Put chain in old saucepan with parafin and bring to boil, then simmer for as long as I dared. Then drip-dry chain and finally soak in warmed chain oil overnight. Then back on the bike or wrapped in oil paper and back in spares box.

I did say around. And will someone now shoot me please. But do so quietly; I don't wish the last thing I hear to be the sound of a gun shot. Whatever the case. I do notice a muffling of noise when I have either capped my ears with the Husqvarna ear defenders or inserted the Moldex plugs. And there is also considerably more muffling with both types being used at same time. Can't see any one aiming... I'm still waiting. Look, I'll make is mentally easier, I'm walking away now.

Oops! That should have been Spark Plugs. Spank - plug - and Husky's would be a different forum. I stand corrected by an interesting article and knowledgable fellow.

For that size around, between £300 bare metal to £900 powder coated. Greenhouse grade glass isn't the earth.

SNR = signal to noise ratio. But as relevant to ear defenders, you could remember it as sound noise reduction. Simply put, the defender's SNR rating, is the measured reduction in dB between measured noise at source and at the ear. So 25 SNR reduces what your ear/s are exposed to by 25dB. Mine are standard Husky defenders and so are rated at 26 SNR. But I also carry Moldex 'Spark Plugs', which are 35 SNR. If I'm around particularly noisy stuff or milling, in go the Spank Plugs and over go the Huskys. So the level of noise my ears will be exposed to, is reduced by around 61dB.

Hope you get it back but with Felixstowe and Tilbury container ports on your doorstep, I expect it's left the UK by now. Or is waiting for the container to be filled with other ill gotten booty and destined for eastern europe.

Talking in the present, I'm not sure but in the past tense. Inanimate objects are hung, while people are hanged. The latter is often terminal.

Why would any one want a phone with a MS OS? It's been a MS constant, that when MS gets board with an OS or that their mobile market share falls below market forecast. That they walk away and drop current users without a lifeline. See links for history lesson: http://www.cio.com/article/2419511/mobile/10-ways-microsoft-tried-and-failed-to-rule-mobile.html http://www.asymco.com/2011/02/11/in-memoriam-microsofts-previous-strategic-mobile-partners/

Sorry. Didn't mean to reiterate what had already been said by your good self. But pointing the OPer to them having to actually measure depth of groove, after having first dressed the bar.

Need something more acidic like lemon juice or wine vinegar. But this would only help counteract the effect, if you were stung by a wasp, as their stings are alkaline. Whereas bee stings are acidic and so an alkaline such as bi-carb/baking soda would help to counteract the sting, (aftering having first removed the embedded bee sting). But you have to know what stung you.

I like EE for coverage and have been with them for many years, since my first mobile. But EE just doesn't work consistently in Spain and Tesco Mobile is also working out cheaper. As for original question. The whole thing seems like a step backwards. Towers became desktops became; laptops; became notepads; became tablets. With the mobilphone following suit, becoming more sophisticated and smaller. And now manufactures are working their way back up is size. I reckon it's high time people thought for themselves and stopped being led like sheep. Making up their minds, as to whether they want a small computer or a phone. Smartphones are becoming less like phones and more like PCs. It's only a matter of time, before some daft sod of a manufacturer persuades a lot of daft sheep, that what they really need, is a 52" widescreen mobilephone with getto blaster style speakers and forward & backward facing digital 800mm telephoto cameras.

Not meaning to play things down and yes, I would agree the cut is wholly unwanted. But when I read in the first sentence, "... and severed my arm..." my first thought was either, he's joshing or he's laid up in hospital. I then read they were going to attempt repair in a few days time, I realised your arm must still be attached to the body. As the word severed or sevared ~ devide by cutting or slicing suddenly and forcibly: the limbs were severed from the body, implies your body to be in more than one piece. Anyway, I hope all works out for you and that you're back in work sooner rather than later.

Also check the groove's depth against manufacturer's quoted limits. But dress the bar first. If it's less than minimum, it's time for a new bar.

It played on the iPod, screen went blank for first 8secs. but then played ok, (and I'm not a Youtuber). As said by others, he comes across as a nice relaxed soul. But I wouldn't want to work close by him. I hope he dies at a ripe old age, quietly in his bed. But part me doubts that'll be the case.

Both excellent pieces of advice. The former allows you to sharpen the chain, while the saw is still attached in the Alaskan. While the latter gives a mechanical advantage and saves your energy reserves for manoeuvring timber.

Isn't always the way. You dig out on a nearly dry day and during the night or while you're having bait, it tamps down, collapsing the side and filling the whole. But could be worse. When I was grave digging, we had one coffin floating at the bottom. And one that during a prelonged graveside service, actually rose from the bottom to level with the surface and then started to slide down the hillside. Had to clear mourners, pump out the grave and re-lower the coffin. Had a few complaints about that one. But we weren't the ones controlling the weather on that day, nor were we the ones singing for over 90mins. in torrential rain. So nothing came of it. At the time, it was the stuff of nightmares. Now it's a slightly comic memory.

Worn bar rails.

Ouch times 13. Remember bi-carb or baking soda for bee stings; in a paste helps. And vinegar or lemon juice for wasp stings.

Just looked at the list price on Aspen's website and it quotes a rrp of: 12 x 1L £4.98 per 1L = £59.76 3 x 5L £18.93 per 5L can = £56.79 1 x 200L £685.91 = £3.43 per litre Now those are the quoted rrp and of course they can be cut or increased by the dealer. But I still reckon you've been done. Time to source a different Aspen dealer me thinks.

That's a lot of processing per tonne.

36" seems to be about the longest bar on the 660/661 to be happy. 880 will power through to 42"/48" and then some. The 880 is thirsty, especially if you don't have a nose sprocket, as is the standard equipment supplied by Stihl. Regarding bars, either buy the 880 with the biggest Stihl bar your dealer will supply; it'll be 48". Then take that off before its first use and sell it on. It'll reach a better price, than the Sugi Hara, (nose sprocketed) solid bar that'll be replacing it. Typical price difference between selling s/hand but new Stihl bar and buying a new Sugi Hara, is around £170. Buying a new Stihl 47"/48" £403inc., new Sugi Hara 46" £222inc. By selling the supplied Stihl, (no nose sprocketed) bar and buying the Sugi Hara, you'll make your first profitable sale. Or just buy the powerhead from the dealer and the Sugi Hara bar & ripping chains from Rob D at http://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/ But you'll not make that £170 profit. Oh, and take the felling spikes off. You'll not be needing them for milling. And on the 880, that'll give you an extra 2" of useable bar. Light type bars are great for most other saw applications. But for milling you need as little bar flex as possible, so when you get the Sugi Hara and you will; get the 'Pro' bar, which is solid and has a replaceable nose sprocket. Also, ditch the supplied chain in favour of a full skip ripping chain. It'll clear the chip that much faster and use less power overall. Which in turn, will save you £s on fuel. If you value your health, use Aspen. Hell it's expensive but you'll have a clearer head at the end if the day. And you can always work the extra into the quote, "More environmentally friendly, yadder, yadder, yadder."