TGB

Also, get a Mini Mill at the same time if you can stretch to it. Good for ripping smaller boards, posts and smaller beams. And as said, a hand winch with pulley & HMS crab. Far easier to winch the saw through the cut, than have to push it. You get a more even finish and less vibes too.

If you need the dogs, keep them. If you don't, take them off and gain 2" of useable bar. If you can afford the 880, then buy it; you can always fit smaller bars. On the other hand, the 661 could be an almost everyday saw too. Whereas the bigger saw will only come out, if you're cutting really big stuff or milling.

That made me splutter my coffee ;-)

Ruddy spellchecker. That should have been, "You sometimes wonder about what goes on between being shown a standard saw and some mod or other. Great to see things as they happen."

The region is covered in stumpy growth and stumpy trees. Mostly orange, lemon and olive groves. You see bigger trees in towns but you never see people working on them. There must be arbor teams and consultancy work. But the only time you see a chainsaw, is when a grove owner has decided to flatten a grove for development or is cutting firewood. If you do end up working in the field, be it cutting of consultancy. Remember that most of Spain's plant life, is either prickly or spiny. Trousers don't last long while walking in the countryside.

You sometimes wonder about what goes on between being shown a star dared saw and some mid or other. Great to see things as they happen.

Mythbusters recreated this after the video was first posted on the net. They had the same results too.

The 'What bar for a mid range saw' had a whole bundle of opinions on this. And though I couldn't happily run an 18" on my 545, plenty do on their non-ported 550XPs. It's got the got that extra grunt. I run a 15" on mine with no problems and would only consider going down to 13", if I was going to be cutting softwood stands all day and everyday or was only cutting for pre-charcoal.

15' isn't much. Are you sure they know how little 15' off the top will be. The kit being of unknown history is a no no. Don't climb with kit, the history you/they know nothing about. As to the 6mm prussiks. For aided rock climbing purposes, 6mm is pretty standard. 5mm isn't enough and 8mm is both awkward to handle and needless weight. As a tree climber, you'll be used to a lot more carried weight. As a rock climber, I'd be thinking, "New chalk ball, more chalk = more weight. Old chalk ball = may run out of chalk but less weight. (Difference is a couple of ounces here.) Hell! I don't want that weight. The new ball can wait for another day."

Snowed a bit last night but not much in the ground now.

Thank you one and all.

When I was making a shortlist, I had among others, both the 550XP and MS241 C-M. The 550 got axed because of all the problems it had at that time. The 2013/2014 onwards ones seem to be sorted. I don't cut every day so I don't need a pro saw. But came real close to getting the 241. In the end, I decided that if I was going to have to carry the weight and didn't want a saw on a timed self-destruct. I could be happy with more than the 241's 2.2kW but less then the 550's 2.8kW; and ended up with the 545 at 2.5kW. Ok, it's not a pro saw but has handled everything I've asked of it with ease. Without problem or anything breaking. Mainly coppice, with I bit of hedging, felling Grandis and the occasional windblown beech, ash oak, etc. So, if you want more than the one and want to save a few bob on the other, get a 545. If you've got the £s and can't face having a 2.2kW saw. Get the 550 with a couple of different bars, say a 13" & 18".

I've some slight repair work to carry out on a property, (friend's place, sloped front facing roof, single broken slate). I'm not a roofer, though I know what to do and how to do it. Someone told me, that because it's on a main road, though the place has a slight front garden. That scafolding needs to be erected; unless the work is carried out on a Sunday. Seems a bit odd. I would've thought, it either does need scafolding or it doesn't. By the way, it's not a high roof, only two storey. Just need to get access to roof and have another ladder with hook to work from, slate ripper, etc., all of which I have. If I don't need scafolding, I can do it as soon as the snow's gone. If it needs scafolding, it's a pro job and more costly. Anyone got info on this. Tried LA but unless it's one of their properties, which it isn't, they're not interested. Other than, "Try ringing a builder to do the work."

Chilly with snow crystallising. Only ever had a couple of inches and now it's around an inch. Roads and pavements ok. Just waiting on another person's decision, whether to take them to south coast or not. They want to go or maybe not, (Starts tapping fingers on table.)

First off, I tried putting this in 'Off Topic' but I wasn't allowed. But back to the vid and after you've watched it. Or pulled out your finger & toe nails with pliers, as this might be more enjoyable. You'll understand why I chose this forum. [ame] [/ame] I reckon there ought to be a law - if you're in the shop looking at video cameras, the assistant has to ascertain: A. Will you think it through first and do you know how boring it is, to have the same detail pointed out in every instance? B. Or just ramble on and on and on, with no preconceived idea of what you'll say next?. And will your audience see you forefinger pointing on-camera? C. Do you know what 'edit' means? D. Were you/are you the one people try to avoid in crowded areas. For fear that they'll lose the will to live if you stop to chat? If the answer is 'No' to A and or C If the answer is 'Yes' to B and or D Then you should be barred from owning such a dangerous weapon of mass boredom. So, what's the most boring vid you've seen lately?

Maybe ok for chip. But for logs, I'd leave it on the shelf after looking at this: [ame] [/ame]You could handball that quicker and in a neater pile. On the Load Handler site, it gives 'Galbraith Bros' as the sole UK distributor and on their site, there's no mention of this product. Me thinks they've given up in the idea.

Rain moving from right to left, then sleet moving from left to right. Variable winds with variable precipitation.

Can't name them but know someone who still collects mon-saleable deadwood from FC land. As he has an unofficial FC contact, a big bunch of keys, relevant common sense, a chainsaw and trailer. Living a 1/2 mile from an access point helps, as does knowing when there's going to be no FC personnel/officialdom present.

Proper technique, adherence to H+S and application of 'common' sense will go a long way in protecting you from harm. Don't think of it as, I'm going to have an accident, let's equip myself with neck guards, etc. think more on the lines of, how do I avoid the 'what if' scenario. Don't juggle with chainsaws, know how to avoid kickback and apply that knowledge every time you cut. If you're not going to take chances with your PPE, then don't with your cutting equipment. Get a decent saw; that can be maintained and spare parts reasonably sought when required, thus enabling you to have a safe working saw. Not a potential death trap due to being unable to get a relevant part, which may be safety orientated. Keep the chain sharp is a no brainier - better cutting and safer cutting. Cutting along the grain is most often referred to as 'ripping'. So look for threads with 'ripping' and Alaskan Mill in their title. The Alaskan Mill is a range of jigs designed specifically for milling small quantities of timber and or in inaccessible locations. If you're going to be ripping more wood in future, use of a 'ripping chain' will save you time, money, (you & your saw's energy) and lengthen the longevity of your saw. You don't necessarily need a mill for ripping but it can help if you're regularly doing so. Keep that chain sharp. If you've got a less than sharp cross-cut chain, you can finish off the round by leaning on the saw or levering you way through by use of the dogs, (though of course it's better to have a sharp chain). But a less than sharp ripping chain will get you no further along the cut, waste fuel, oil & time and lessen the life of your saw.

Rakers are taken down every three sharpens. Or sooner if the damage was severe. Also, I see little point throwing a chain away, if it's not back to the witness marks. If chains were meant to be trashed sooner, I seriously doubt the manufacturer would spend money including extra metal for no good reason. I recently worked with a guy, who upon seeing my cutters a couple of mil off the witness marks. Exclaimed the chain was dangerously worn and that he'd never use a chain worn more than half way between factory new and the witness marks.

If it's just a touch-up, then they just get 3-4 strokes regardless. If I've hit a stone or metal, the chain get more attention. But getting it sharp is the priority. If the damage is severe, it's often quicker to swap the chain. I can spend more time getting teeth the same size and everything tickity-boo when I get back. When I'm not getting rained/snowed on and when I'm not kneeling in mud. If both chains get a hammering when out. The least damaged gets a good sharpen; but I still wait till I'm back to get every tooth the same. The grinder comes out when there's lots of damage to one or more chains. (Or when milling. Lots of teeth and a little mechanical help quickens the day.)

I would have thought most people will have included delivery costs into their total running costs or added that to their quoted logs/bags price and averaged the quoted price out. So on the deliveries close to base, they earn a bit more and the ones a way off they earn a little less.

Snap!

Ingenious if a little unsafe, (stepping over an unprotected drive shaft) with all that collecting ability, the next thing ought to be a half decent seat for the tractor. As to the quantity of wood, perhaps he's part of a commune.

If the detergent has any kind of solvent or bleaching agent in it, then this would not be good for kernmantle rope. http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kernmantle_rope Often there is outward signs of damage. But inward damage can be difficult to detect, so best not take the risk. As said, there are special rope cleaning agents available. Or you could use pure soap flakes, such as 'Lux' or 'Boots' own brand.