Big Beech
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Everything posted by Big Beech
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I used to run my 064 but retired her to ringing down as power to weight is superb. Pickex up its older cousin 056av. Same size but more torque. Make sure yiu have a 7 tooth sprocket not an 8. Have just cut 4 29" boards with 36" bar. Make sure there roller not solid. That 29" was slow progress but 20-24" is comfortable. Over that the bad boy will come into service. Simon
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Buxus sempervirens = box
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gloss would be better, as it will still allow the timber to breathe. varnish may be to much of a seal. but its still going to take a good 6 months until you can set about finishing the item. good luck, and don't rush it
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my bad boy 090 av, freshly pimped
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this is totally counter productive imho. you want to seal the grain. so by sanding to a very fine grit, the idea is the smaller particles seal the grain, reducing water loss. you can also wet sand, by sanding to a fine grit. then wet the log witn a cloth which raises the grain. sand again. wet again. sand again. wet again until the sanding when wet is smooth. if working in this manner and for some strange reason you feel compelled to wipe, always wipe across the grain not with it as the cloth will remove the residue you which need. as I stated before I would allow the top to dry for a few hours then paint, but drill out the centre plug as well. simon
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I would paint the top n bottom with paint to seal it. Several coats. Then thro in cool shed out the way of heat and excesive wind. Remember drying iak = 1" thickness a year
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Root air injection? But in all honesty luckjbg at this pic cut it down for logs and milling
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Butchers blox r beech. Always hav been n always will b. Our local servin platters use oak. Remeber if you use danish oil n the like it contains tung oil. Not good for people with nut allergies!!!!
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Ummm. You might need a bigger mill. Ive a 36 and the widest i can cut is 31. It looks more than that
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yep, looks just like the cherry I turned in to logs for my winter fire
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thanks Alec, pretty much my thought was to run it up the big split, but treat each as a quarter section perhaps. the 30" D, runs near as dam it the full 12ft of good stuff. and timings wise, yes I would allow for the day anyway. there would be two of us as well. customer to clear sawdust
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as per the title, what sort of screws or coach bolts should I use. for the larger diameter stuff was thinking on 8mm CS, but then for the small stuff some standard wood screws? and finally I see several people who recommend the osmo oils. but which one as there appears to be many for outdoor use? I got a good amount from an old tree in the woods, lovely stuff too TIA, Simon
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that's a question all by itself I will tell you the truth, not the wife. she lies I presume you mean bar length on the 090? its a 48incher just going to get it tach tuned on Friday. initially thought it was an crankcase issue of slight lumpiness, but appears incorrect carb settings.
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Ummmm, I am thinking it might be a tad fiddly with the Alaskan though? No? in my post, I should of said benches not tables, but yes the lady wants a coffee table too!! looks like I am going to need to get that milling chain for the 090!!!!!
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two weeks we had to fell this nice old oak as an insurance job. so initially I was to clear all off site, then it was decided that the customer was going to get someone in to price it to take away for milling. Long story short its still on the lawn as the guys never showed up! so the overall length is 22ft, with the straight clean trunk runs 12ft before the knotty bit starts. we headed there today to grind out the stump and it had split real bad. now when I felled it, it pinched my saw so there was obviously a lot of tension within. the lady would like me to mill it (possibly) and make some tables. to me, it looks like a lot of work for possibly not a lot of useable timber. thoughts please gentlemen simon
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You must be cutting some crap old wood!! In the past 15yrs i could Probably count around 25 times ive hit thingz. Over that time span a metal detector would if been extrVagant!!!! Good luck
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thanks but just in case some wanted the answer, I did as I thought and sanded with some fine grade wet n dry and it removed the tackiness so the ladies could rest there posterior whilst looking at the garden simon
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no no that sort of tacky!!!! just finished a bench yesterday for a customers open garden this afternoon. I was hoping the Danish oil would of dried by now, but is slightly tacky to touch. whilst I've sat on it and its ok for me, how could I remove the last stickiness. I though a light sand with some wet and dry? garden opens at 2pm!! thanks, all
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if it does the job you intended, who are we to judge or criticise it looks functional:thumbup1: Simon
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after reading this post, and Alec`s advice on the 90, it is now converted to aspen as of today, complete with a new 48" chain and my ebay bar!
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my now running 090
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to save your saw when milling, do not turn your saw off until it has cooled to normal working temps, just leave idiling for a few more minutes.
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don't intend to buy twice, but I wasn't looking for £400 pound tools either!!! but what Muttley has linked, is within reach. thanks, simon
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As per title. max depth of timber is 2" and the hardest is likely to be Oak at that size. don't wont to spend a fortune (just bought a new camera ) what are me options ? secondly, looking for a more flexible sanding option. I have a 4" belt sander which is great for planx, but looking to sand up some bone Oak for a chair so may be intricate places, but I don't wont multiple tools if I can help it. Suggestions please? thanx, Simon
