Big Beech

hi guys, the terrain in is most awkward, and whilst i have a multitude of tools available for extraction, it would make a mess!! and i know the client wont have that in his back garden. though i may be able to get a skid steer in, but then the issue is the boggy bts on the way out. I can get the landy close in the summer when its dry but certainly not this time of year. so, let say i amgoing the CM route, any suggestions? s

Hi guys, thanks so far for all your help. Whilst wandering a clients woodland a few days ago, i spotted an old burred oak. At its widest point (though not measured) its around 36" at its very widest, tapering off slightly to around 30". Given my new mill and saw will struggle due to the width would it be best to slice some of the burrs off first therefore reducing my width down to a more manageable size. The tree is dead, so i would remove the crown and fell on to barers to allow rolling. But i dont know if i will be able to role to box the heart, though it is on a slight slope. so first question, does it look worth my effort of doing this? second question, is the above methodoligy correct or what would you Experts suggest?

nice! how long where these dried out for before finishing oils applied etc.? simon

chaps, thank you for all your welcomes and answers. most appreciated. Rob, thats very kind thank you, i will do so shortly. James, i will see what i can do re: 2nd image:biggrin: simon

Ok Guys, thanx for the answers. looks like i will stay then with the 36" bar then. Alec, interesting idea / thought in removing the sap wood and bark therefore giving more valuable timber after its been slabbed first. I am able to get some decent SC as i have a large coppice we manage, so there should be no problems there:thumbup1: also odd oak butts and yew also feature on our general stock items and some fruit wood coming up shortly and cherry. one thing i am struggling to find though with benches with a back rest, the best way to desgin a system that allows this to be bolted on. any suggestions or pictures? thx. s:001_smile:

Hi Big J. thanks for your reply. so even though i wont be using the extra width of the bigger bar due to loss of mountings etc. you still recomend just using the 36" bar? if thats teh case, i suppose 28" it is, but your throat size suggests i loose 8"`s is that with dogs off as well? I have had a look thru some older posts, and yes Rob D does seem to be the man! i am sure i will have some other questions, probably sooner rather than later! simon

Hello All, I have literally just came accross this site whilst googlin around looking for answers, hope to have a good life around these forums when time allows. I have just aquired a 064 with a new 36" bar and chain. I plan to hopefully, when time allows start to make some benches and tables etc. from our arisings from our tree work, i guess like many on this milling sub forum. So, i would of liked a 066/m660 but price was a tad high at the moment so i got the 064. I know you loose a bit of bar lenght when the mill is mounted, but exactly how much? the figures seem to vary from 4-7" + - dog teeth. I would like to ge a 42" bar for it, just so as i keep my 36" real estate for milling with a Granberg chain. But finding a 42" bar in the UK for a 064/066 seems as rare as hens teeth! Am i trying to be pedantic in getting the extra inches or not and if not where can i get this size bar from? Also, where do you suggest getting a 36" mill from? Amazon have them for £289 i think, ebay also have them as does alaskansawmills.co.uk or something and also has a lot of kit listed. Looking forward to hearing your advices. Simon