Big Beech

i had my 020T fall off my harness, over a farm pond. (was running when it hit water) sent my bitch fishing with a lenght of scaffold pole. 15mins seacrhing it was found. plug out, pulled over numerous times. left for 20 mins. dippped sparky in some fuel dropped in the plug`ole and she fire straight up. should be fine, even if it did drink a little simon

Firstly, Rob. Thank you. mills and chain came today as discussed. All built ready for action!!! So, i have been eyeing my wood stores up, and have two chunks of Yew i would like to deal with first, and some cherry (8ft x 13" x3) and some oak butts. The main yew tree is gonna run 10ft x 20/21" and is dead straight. Hopefully straight forward to deal with. I have another top section of a tree my Uncle-in-law is milling on the WM, the idea was to also take this over but i think i wanna play:001_smile: This trunk has a wide end diameter of 20" and drops to 13" over 9ft. How shuould i attatch the ladder? let if follow the fall, or build up the shortfall? Rob, I saw in another post i think abouth keeping all angles thesame, can you confirm the angle for sharpening on the Granberg chain please. Simon

i looked at those, but the reviews seemed poor. but i found these: from Rutlands.co.uk simon

and apparently as quoted from the other spalted beech post "Remember spalted beech is highly carcinogenic. " unknown to me and perhaps others as well. anyone have a source of this info? simon the other post- http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/25166-spalted-beech.html

looks like he could do with sharpening his chain, looks blunt to me:laugh1:

good job! what width was your ash? simon

we cut and split our own SC and de bark them. these are used for rustic post n rail. therefore unless they are large trees i would just split the posts rustic with wedges unless they have to be dimensionised. they will also last for ages. do not use concrete thogh to fix at that will speed up the rotting of any post except concrete! for an extra edge, stakes can also be burnt on the ends for added permanace. s

no not down yet. guvner not around to ask yet. ideally want to use it myself:001_smile: i have a family member who has a WM1000 if i could get it out to get it there, i think that wud cut er up ok! location location location, it just aint gonna appen!!!!! simon

Alec, just been down and took the tape this time! at its widest it is 41", tapering to around 36" at 2m, it then narrows slightly to the crown break at 4m. so basically there would be two 2m sections with the burriest bit in the base section. I have two options as i see it. Firstly hire beg borrow or sthil my firsnd ms880 and swallow the cost on the chain (perhaps resell) or ask my mate nicely if he wants to part with his 090 and get a big bar and chain for it. decisions decisions:biggrin: s

nice looking log Rob! nice setup as well, what size rails are they? also, a friend has a 090av, but needs some spar av mounts and google has only given a few options. do you have anywhere you could recomend for some or any other custom fitting options for replacing them. this may be my answer tomy burr oak questions re:size saw etc. cheers, simon

sweeet benches! is the Elm in number 1 a dutch elm diseased tree? and are you able to show any image from under and behind them, to show how the slabs are attached? that would be very helpfull. thank you simon

guys, thanks for the posts, but keeping on the Burr oak original question it appears after speaking with several people there appears to be no oprion of getting a trekkersaw in as hoped, again due to the remote wooded location and the trouble of getting the power pack near enough to drive it. so it does in deed look like the alaskan will be the only route, as i can cut it soon and leave it stacked and undercover to allow to air dry in the wood waiting for a dry summers day. So,given the size would i be best cutting 4" slabs, then getting them re cut on another mill once i can get them out or just go straight it at 2"? and should i cut through the burr or under them in to teh main trunk? TIA, Simon

hi guys, the terrain in is most awkward, and whilst i have a multitude of tools available for extraction, it would make a mess!! and i know the client wont have that in his back garden. though i may be able to get a skid steer in, but then the issue is the boggy bts on the way out. I can get the landy close in the summer when its dry but certainly not this time of year. so, let say i amgoing the CM route, any suggestions? s

Hi guys, thanks so far for all your help. Whilst wandering a clients woodland a few days ago, i spotted an old burred oak. At its widest point (though not measured) its around 36" at its very widest, tapering off slightly to around 30". Given my new mill and saw will struggle due to the width would it be best to slice some of the burrs off first therefore reducing my width down to a more manageable size. The tree is dead, so i would remove the crown and fell on to barers to allow rolling. But i dont know if i will be able to role to box the heart, though it is on a slight slope. so first question, does it look worth my effort of doing this? second question, is the above methodoligy correct or what would you Experts suggest?

nice! how long where these dried out for before finishing oils applied etc.? simon

chaps, thank you for all your welcomes and answers. most appreciated. Rob, thats very kind thank you, i will do so shortly. James, i will see what i can do re: 2nd image:biggrin: simon

Ok Guys, thanx for the answers. looks like i will stay then with the 36" bar then. Alec, interesting idea / thought in removing the sap wood and bark therefore giving more valuable timber after its been slabbed first. I am able to get some decent SC as i have a large coppice we manage, so there should be no problems there:thumbup1: also odd oak butts and yew also feature on our general stock items and some fruit wood coming up shortly and cherry. one thing i am struggling to find though with benches with a back rest, the best way to desgin a system that allows this to be bolted on. any suggestions or pictures? thx. s:001_smile:

Hi Big J. thanks for your reply. so even though i wont be using the extra width of the bigger bar due to loss of mountings etc. you still recomend just using the 36" bar? if thats teh case, i suppose 28" it is, but your throat size suggests i loose 8"`s is that with dogs off as well? I have had a look thru some older posts, and yes Rob D does seem to be the man! i am sure i will have some other questions, probably sooner rather than later! simon

Hello All, I have literally just came accross this site whilst googlin around looking for answers, hope to have a good life around these forums when time allows. I have just aquired a 064 with a new 36" bar and chain. I plan to hopefully, when time allows start to make some benches and tables etc. from our arisings from our tree work, i guess like many on this milling sub forum. So, i would of liked a 066/m660 but price was a tad high at the moment so i got the 064. I know you loose a bit of bar lenght when the mill is mounted, but exactly how much? the figures seem to vary from 4-7" + - dog teeth. I would like to ge a 42" bar for it, just so as i keep my 36" real estate for milling with a Granberg chain. But finding a 42" bar in the UK for a 064/066 seems as rare as hens teeth! Am i trying to be pedantic in getting the extra inches or not and if not where can i get this size bar from? Also, where do you suggest getting a 36" mill from? Amazon have them for £289 i think, ebay also have them as does alaskansawmills.co.uk or something and also has a lot of kit listed. Looking forward to hearing your advices. Simon