Big Beech

oh well, i thought i did well for my first atempt:001_tongue:

My new power plane came thru today, so went out and bought me a new dewalt grinder as well:001_smile: after a steep initial learning curve, manged to brave a burr from my tree that i milled and which can also be seen on the alaskan milling forum. the only prob with this burr was the hole in the middle need some suggestions on what type of sanding didks i need for my new 4" machine please. ive seen some flexi type ones on u tube but not for sale. now it is ruffed out, i will boil it at the weekend in an old oil drum and a roofin torch for cumbustion:thumbup1: simon

thanks all, will have a look around on line. does any one have any good sites that show how too`s s

thanks, and how many coats or just keep applying? and wire wool in between coats? i read that hard woods such as oak need sealers as well? but i may also of read about wetting it (water) then sanding finely to do the same thing? simon

So, ive just orderd me one of the Arbortech Power Planer`s and with my new sander and belts will soon be under way making things. Ive a couple of chunks of Oak, that i have laying around for a while and are ready to be gotten on with. Has been sanded with 40 grit then 80 and then will eventually finish with a 180 grit would be smooth enough for my liking. I am fan of the raw linseed oil in how it makes the grain stand out compared to tung oil, but as these will be coffee tables iam looking for a reasonable hard wearing coffee cup finish. my options are what and how are they best applied? thanks, Simon

that looks great Alex, size seems good to me, as ive done one for the wife, but 4" thick:lol: how long did you season for? this thread may be of use re: oil choice as well. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/49922-what-oil-do-you-use-finish-your-wood.html simon

certainly have recently. check the other threads under the alaskan sub heading

Managed to get the timber out of the woods whilst dry just a few days ago. they where cut 2" thick and managed to get two at a time on a sack barrow type dolly trolly and pulled them out. wow. that was some tuff pullin!!!!! Looking at the Oak out in good light, it looks as if some of the boards are stained and have a browny pinkish look. Would this be brown Oak? the right hand slab that is the "Y" board i cut in half again today as it was 4" and the colour stain and rays where exceptional! also the other pic shows a central split, where i milled the log around 2/3rd " out of center along the 7ft lenght. two boards show this central split but not all the way through. will i loose these boards as due to splitting. (can be seen in the right image as well) and lastly prices. what would boards like this fetch? one website i looked at wanted £65 a cube which was kiln dried. these boards on average are 1.5cu ft. thx simon

glad this post has been of use Dan! simon

thats what daddy is for was edward working near Washington last few days? spotted him i think as did your cousin!

no he is not that fussy, though i suppose biting a nail with the big mill may cost Harry, may well pop up next week to look how my yew is coming on poss tuesday, s

so, cant the tree be saved by pruning and reducing the weight? or has it been condemed just for the need of carving something? if is still standing and alive, give the tree a chance?

doesnt tung oil come from the tung tree, which produces nuts to prduce your tung oil? if so, perhaps not a wise "food safe" choice for those allergic to nuts

its what everone does, isnt it Boiling Green Wood to Reduce Drying Defects In Bowls and Platters

well, i was going to gouge it out with the ms200:biggrin: then boil, then sand once dry:thumbup:

thanks, ive seen the arbotec stuff, just cant justify there prices for an every now and then project. i am looking for a new grinder and these sanding, flappy pad disks. where would suggest i look? or any recomendations? s

I took this chunk off of the trunk as in per the other post. selectively chiseled with the ms200 to remove the old soft wood and a little rotten area, then cut it in half with the idea of making two dish style boles. i did see some roughing ou tools that fit on a 3 or 4" grinder. does anyone have any recomendations? i am going to rough them out, boil them then finish them:001_smile: s

yeh, i sure hope they are gonna look nice, not sure ona finish yet tho! any suggestions for Oak? s

thats interesting. there atr two of the largest sycamores i have seen, just out of shot from this holly on the right. i will also check these shortly. what is the recommended proceedure for this fungus? the tree at this stage shows no ill health in the crown and has a full and dense crown at that... Perhaps reduce to avoid with throw?

i didnt post a previous image, but the tree has been down o so long. ive been working here 8yrs and it was donw then, but never took any notice of it. just wasnt my thing back then:001_smile:

do you mean is the tree coming out? the client wished to retain it.

Hi Guys, ive had a look thru my book, but unable to ID this. its like small bubbles, of black crispy puffs. only around the base of the tree, but not all the way around. the tree is approx 18" diameter and approx. 35ft high. thanks, Simon

well we finally had some good weather today and milled up the first "ugly" butt that i discovered a month or so ago. i wasnt expecting much, given the age and condition of it laying nearly on the ground and covered in moss, lichen, ferns and other detritous but we where pleasantly suprised! there are a few pockets of rot, white in clour in the middle edge of one of the planks. should this be treated in anyway, and like wise there is signficant decay on the outer edges where the sap wood was. it is white but hard in places and very mushy wet in others. should i just allow this to dry its course then scurf off with a sanding disk on the angle grinder? if so any recomendations for such a tool or any 40grit disk? simon

that did make me laugh as well:lol:

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