Big Beech
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Everything posted by Big Beech
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yeh, midges biting too as of today:thumbdown: but yes, milling now commencing as customers are getting grumpy ive left butts everywhere throughout my county just sharpend the chain with the new grinder from Rob, so will see how she fares next time out. just got a new 7 tooth rim sprok and new aire filter for the 064 . i also need to check my stickered stack for maggot with a torch, dont want those blighters eatin my hard work!! though i need to get the ends sealed as they are just stacked n stickered and covered with a tarp but allowing a full open ends for drawing the air thru. simon
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try Car insurance, home insurance and more from A-Plan they beat my renewal on my 110 tipper over adrian flux, and also came up trumps on my discovery 52 plate.
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exactly how i run my ship. if we get a chance for a "small job" the boy will get a little xtra on top the day too. win win:001_smile:
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so, when my new to me 064 came in the post i obviously had to bolt on the new bar and new chain. what a pain in the A***E. there was virtually zero clearance to allow for traditional chain appliaction, i had to use the combi spanner as a lever to get her on. the old way of placeing the bar tip on a surface to tension was a no go as the bar angle touched down against the sprocket. bar says 114 drive links, and thats what the chains are after counting. is this normal? never had such issues before with 044/ 441/088 etc. thoughts, or is it just the way it was made teh image shows a granberg ripping chain, tensioned correctly and is also 114 links. simon
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Well, finally got around to heading out to an old clients house to start on the cherry butts. took a while faffing around getting things setup, but soon got under way. was using the 36" mill, grandberg chain and 064. was a dream to use, took 2hrs to get my boards. the biggest being around 12" wide but both 8ft long. needless to say the big butt, had a touch of wood maggot so ended up cutting the center section out of two boards which was a shame. so, what is the price for cherry these day? big tree was cut 2" planks, the smaller tree was cut 1.5" so to get a few more boards. simon
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well, i am guessing that not many conventional neighbours would mind people having a wood mill set up in there front garden? or perhaps you felled the tree from the front and millled it in situ? or did you carry it from around the back? c where i am coming from?
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http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/54053
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my diagnosisssis was correct then:thumbup: guess the neighbours love that out the front
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Brown Oak:confused1:
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thanks, will check it out
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no. they are not listed. only for newer saws, and even then they are imports from usa or aus. not european items. s
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any one never done this before? suprising!
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Looking around for the above forementioned article. does anybody have a UK stihl source or a known supplier from fleabay? TIA. simon
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i had my 020T fall off my harness, over a farm pond. (was running when it hit water) sent my bitch fishing with a lenght of scaffold pole. 15mins seacrhing it was found. plug out, pulled over numerous times. left for 20 mins. dippped sparky in some fuel dropped in the plug`ole and she fire straight up. should be fine, even if it did drink a little simon
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Firstly, Rob. Thank you. mills and chain came today as discussed. All built ready for action!!! So, i have been eyeing my wood stores up, and have two chunks of Yew i would like to deal with first, and some cherry (8ft x 13" x3) and some oak butts. The main yew tree is gonna run 10ft x 20/21" and is dead straight. Hopefully straight forward to deal with. I have another top section of a tree my Uncle-in-law is milling on the WM, the idea was to also take this over but i think i wanna play:001_smile: This trunk has a wide end diameter of 20" and drops to 13" over 9ft. How shuould i attatch the ladder? let if follow the fall, or build up the shortfall? Rob, I saw in another post i think abouth keeping all angles thesame, can you confirm the angle for sharpening on the Granberg chain please. Simon
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i looked at those, but the reviews seemed poor. but i found these: from Rutlands.co.uk simon
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and apparently as quoted from the other spalted beech post "Remember spalted beech is highly carcinogenic. " unknown to me and perhaps others as well. anyone have a source of this info? simon the other post- http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/25166-spalted-beech.html
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looks like he could do with sharpening his chain, looks blunt to me:laugh1:
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good job! what width was your ash? simon
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we cut and split our own SC and de bark them. these are used for rustic post n rail. therefore unless they are large trees i would just split the posts rustic with wedges unless they have to be dimensionised. they will also last for ages. do not use concrete thogh to fix at that will speed up the rotting of any post except concrete! for an extra edge, stakes can also be burnt on the ends for added permanace. s
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no not down yet. guvner not around to ask yet. ideally want to use it myself:001_smile: i have a family member who has a WM1000 if i could get it out to get it there, i think that wud cut er up ok! location location location, it just aint gonna appen!!!!! simon
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Alec, just been down and took the tape this time! at its widest it is 41", tapering to around 36" at 2m, it then narrows slightly to the crown break at 4m. so basically there would be two 2m sections with the burriest bit in the base section. I have two options as i see it. Firstly hire beg borrow or sthil my firsnd ms880 and swallow the cost on the chain (perhaps resell) or ask my mate nicely if he wants to part with his 090 and get a big bar and chain for it. decisions decisions:biggrin: s
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nice looking log Rob! nice setup as well, what size rails are they? also, a friend has a 090av, but needs some spar av mounts and google has only given a few options. do you have anywhere you could recomend for some or any other custom fitting options for replacing them. this may be my answer tomy burr oak questions re:size saw etc. cheers, simon
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sweeet benches! is the Elm in number 1 a dutch elm diseased tree? and are you able to show any image from under and behind them, to show how the slabs are attached? that would be very helpfull. thank you simon
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guys, thanks for the posts, but keeping on the Burr oak original question it appears after speaking with several people there appears to be no oprion of getting a trekkersaw in as hoped, again due to the remote wooded location and the trouble of getting the power pack near enough to drive it. so it does in deed look like the alaskan will be the only route, as i can cut it soon and leave it stacked and undercover to allow to air dry in the wood waiting for a dry summers day. So,given the size would i be best cutting 4" slabs, then getting them re cut on another mill once i can get them out or just go straight it at 2"? and should i cut through the burr or under them in to teh main trunk? TIA, Simon
