Big Beech

Rich, well when i emptied the old fuel out it looked like cherryade:lol: so i am guessing that could off been some left in the system when i got her running. not only that, when i took off the airfilter cover, Err well. dirty isnt a strong enough word, suprised it started at all!!!!!! ok, will look more at the oil tank then, but i may not as it will be just on the mill. it also has a 8rim sprocket on it, and i cannot get the chain and bar on, so i might see if they have a 7 tooth available, or if costly may just get some extra links in the chain. thx all, s

i read that on arbosite whilst trawling around, read "sclallywaggs " post:http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/224755-2.htm simon

that looks loverly! i am guessing it was kiln dried by the speed that it is indoors then! simon

Guys, Just picked up one of these old saws, mainly for some old skool fun, but also to releive the 064 from milling duties, as i like it to much to ruin her:001_smile: the saw runs great, starts on 3rd pull and cuts n pulls like a train. when it was sitting indoors on the floor, it left a small pool of oil, and upon start up a small busrt of white smoke appeared, but then tapered off. so i am guessing the oil tank gasket needs replacing, or is the the crankcase gasket? so, the real question is is it worth doing given the task of milling is intended use, or just leave as. but i am guessing that if the cranckcase gasket is leaking power loss will also come in to play. Thoughts most welcome, simon

Rob. Wil these barz fit 056 if i get the 404 drive sprocket for it?

Arbotech.com.au I got mine from axminster tools

Looking at those boards alot have what appears as sapwood may be yiur biggest issue as that will rot out leavin little heart wood. Loom at my all thd burr boards thread to see my planks which hav little sapwood. But i may b speakjn rubbish as iam on my phone viewing. Nice lookjng and interesting wood tho. Simon

the look on the deers face, and with its red "tail area" looks like it may of been caught from behind, so to speak all amazing items tho. dont have the skil or patience for that! a great commission indeed simon

cheers matey!

Alec, given that most mositure is lost during the process on the end grain would it not be prudent to take a reading on the board ends ( both) and a center reading then avearge?? simon oh, the 090 is comin along nicely:thumbup:

it must be, but this is a burr oak bowl

yeh, its the old table. so no worries there:001_smile:

Rob, no. no variable speed just 10K or noubt! do you have a link for those pads. dont really know what i am looking for as such? the other question i was going to ask you was what you use for removeing the ruff edges on oak boards, or the above mentioned tools? s

oh well, i thought i did well for my first atempt:001_tongue:

My new power plane came thru today, so went out and bought me a new dewalt grinder as well:001_smile: after a steep initial learning curve, manged to brave a burr from my tree that i milled and which can also be seen on the alaskan milling forum. the only prob with this burr was the hole in the middle need some suggestions on what type of sanding didks i need for my new 4" machine please. ive seen some flexi type ones on u tube but not for sale. now it is ruffed out, i will boil it at the weekend in an old oil drum and a roofin torch for cumbustion:thumbup1: simon

thanks all, will have a look around on line. does any one have any good sites that show how too`s s

thanks, and how many coats or just keep applying? and wire wool in between coats? i read that hard woods such as oak need sealers as well? but i may also of read about wetting it (water) then sanding finely to do the same thing? simon

So, ive just orderd me one of the Arbortech Power Planer`s and with my new sander and belts will soon be under way making things. Ive a couple of chunks of Oak, that i have laying around for a while and are ready to be gotten on with. Has been sanded with 40 grit then 80 and then will eventually finish with a 180 grit would be smooth enough for my liking. I am fan of the raw linseed oil in how it makes the grain stand out compared to tung oil, but as these will be coffee tables iam looking for a reasonable hard wearing coffee cup finish. my options are what and how are they best applied? thanks, Simon

that looks great Alex, size seems good to me, as ive done one for the wife, but 4" thick:lol: how long did you season for? this thread may be of use re: oil choice as well. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/49922-what-oil-do-you-use-finish-your-wood.html simon

certainly have recently. check the other threads under the alaskan sub heading

Managed to get the timber out of the woods whilst dry just a few days ago. they where cut 2" thick and managed to get two at a time on a sack barrow type dolly trolly and pulled them out. wow. that was some tuff pullin!!!!! Looking at the Oak out in good light, it looks as if some of the boards are stained and have a browny pinkish look. Would this be brown Oak? the right hand slab that is the "Y" board i cut in half again today as it was 4" and the colour stain and rays where exceptional! also the other pic shows a central split, where i milled the log around 2/3rd " out of center along the 7ft lenght. two boards show this central split but not all the way through. will i loose these boards as due to splitting. (can be seen in the right image as well) and lastly prices. what would boards like this fetch? one website i looked at wanted £65 a cube which was kiln dried. these boards on average are 1.5cu ft. thx simon

glad this post has been of use Dan! simon

thats what daddy is for was edward working near Washington last few days? spotted him i think as did your cousin!

no he is not that fussy, though i suppose biting a nail with the big mill may cost Harry, may well pop up next week to look how my yew is coming on poss tuesday, s

so, cant the tree be saved by pruning and reducing the weight? or has it been condemed just for the need of carving something? if is still standing and alive, give the tree a chance?