Mr. Squirrel
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Everything posted by Mr. Squirrel
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Depending on the trees size and the age of the crack (it could be pretty old but was just hidden by Ivy) there could be a number of different options. Bolting the crack, bracing, reduction pruning or a combination of all of these.
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Are you on clay soils or something? Not something I’ve ever heard of and sounds like he’s just trying to discredit other people while ensuring he gets paid twice for the job. Lovely tree though.
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29” waist and on my third tree motion at the moment. As said plenty of adjustment in them, you’ve got to spend some time dialling it in but once you get it right it’s happy days. When I’ve got it spot on I’ll do a few stitches with some black whipping twine in the hip-leg strap as these can loosen a bit over time.
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Enemy within? What is this nonsense?
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This one. I used to work for a company where I presume nobody could sharpen, they had a MacGyver lad back at the yard who would do them all on a machine and they’d just have a few spares in the truck. Great, until there aren’t any in the truck and you had to hand sharpen them. You couldn’t. I wouldn’t pay someone to naker my chains for me.
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I was similar. It helped for a bit but ultimately nothing but surgery could sort it out. I had broken the socket, torn ligaments, was missing bits of bone and cartilage and the whole rotator cuff was flapping about. First surgeon I took my mri to told me to go back to school because I was done climbing. Found a better surgeon and 8 years later I’m on top form 👌🏻 I think my main lesson was that more investigation would have been beneficial in the first instance. The injections were a cheap option and they did help in the short term, but ultimately we needed more knowledge in order to better direct resources. I actually paid for my mri privately in the end. £400 but well worth it.
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Had a few cortisone injections in my shoulder, wouldn’t call it a last resort as others have though. If physio isn’t quite getting you there then they’re helpful, they were for me anyway. Ultimately it was a crutch though, and when I finally had an mri it was clear my shoulder was pretty well fu***d. The radiologist was genuinely in hysterics, she couldn’t believe I was still climbing with the state it was in.
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Just came across this thread and really feeling it right now. On a job atm, 4 large dismantles, a smaller one and some other bits. Chip and wood staying on site, figured 5 days with three guys. It’ll be easy… 🤦🏻 One of the lads had to go off on semi-long term sick leave. Managed to cover some of the days then the other guy got covid. Spoke to client and stupidly decided to soldier on and just get it done. Now going into day 7 AND on day one I realised I’d gone over the vat threshold the month before so will have to pay that out of the budget. Might rebrand as a charity.
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See that’s what I was talking about too. I’ll often pull the wrench into the ‘neutral’ position, when friction is too much. But you shouldn’t be able to pull on the actual hitch with it. Honestly, if you know anyone with a chicane ask for a wee shot of it some time, it might be a good solution for you.
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The guys asking for guidance, don’t be fooling him into giving his money to Notch. I can see how this would be really useful. I’ll often switch between single and double, but when that means removing a double leg tether it’s a bit of a pain. Also means basically dismantling your system up a tree. So I was thinking about something like this just the other day. As others have said though that flop is no good. Stiff tethers all have a rubber grommet/similar to keep the wrench up a bit. This just helps to ensure that it engages correctly and quickly. In your setup I could potentially see a situation where the wrench doesn’t engage or inverts and releases the friction hitch. Potentially? A chicane seems a good option for on/off use and it is super smooth with a hitch. Downsides are bulk, and I don’t really like that it’s got a metal ‘tether’. Good option though.
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Hardest wearing srs rope
Mr. Squirrel replied to Rob Thompson's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
What rope are you using? I have some kmiii max used near daily for about three years before I retired it as it got so stiff. Tough rope though. Others like fly and velocity are also pretty good, not as hard wearing but nice in the hand. -
I’ve had the evo for about a year now and really rate it. it’s expensive, but tbh they all are. I paid ~1.5-2k for an aeroklass that leaked horrendously, wasn’t particularly well built and there was quite a lot of unused space in the back. In comparison the rsi is solid, pretty much watertight and with the tool drawer and a side storage locker makes a really practical use of space. Honestly think it’s better value for money vs aeroklas/truckman offerings. The locks are solid, a bit dry at first but an occasional squirt of ballisto keeps em sweet. Only issue I’ve had is that the locks are angled up slightly and freeze shut pretty easily. A splash of hot water/coffee sorts it out though. No issues with the gas struts either, seem good. It’s built to last is my impression, take your time building and fitting it and you shouldn’t have any issues. 100% recommend.
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See I find cobra an absolute fankle. You’ve gotta have tape, scissors, a blow torch, spreader, sleeve, shock absorbers… then getting the tension right is a pain. All you need with Gefa/Gefa style is tape and scissors. Never really used a fid. I also don’t believe the shock absorbers in cobra/boa are actually any use. No data to back that up, but my inclination is they’re nonsense. Never observed a problem with the rope to sling contact.
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Looks like Gefa or similar, far better product than cobra and boa imo.
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Teufelberger Sirius Bull Rope instructions
Mr. Squirrel replied to Ledburyjosh's topic in Splicing Forum
Why are you using fid lengths? Surely if you have the measurements there you can just make the eye a bit smaller? -
Thanks for your input 👍🏻
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Socialists and dictators are different things, dumbass.
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Him being president was a nightmare. Such a nightmare that it continues to this day. Don't talk like he wasn't all that bad. Don't be that guy.
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Odd, I used a positioner for years, often on a single leg and never had any bother with cam springs. Have you done this repeatedly?
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Apologies for not replying, missed it. Sounds like you’re sorted anyway! I had a similar issue with the bolt on brand new distels, I sheared a torq head and thought drilling and tapping it might be an option. A ended up ruining a brand new gaff and didn’t want to buy a pair so asked them if I could buy an individual. They had a new gaff and replacement bolts to me within a week no charge. Really nice folks. Distel4lyf.
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t540i xp Husqvarna T540i xp Battery falling out
Mr. Squirrel replied to Atom813's topic in Climbers talk
I’ve noticed the battery releasing a few times now. Not dropping out, but a ‘first stage release’ if you like. T540i with 200x batteries. Considering doing as others have and putting a releasable strap around the battery unit to make sure it can’t come out. -
Had them since November and so far really rate them. Far comfier than any other chainsaw boots I’ve had in the past 15 years. Great for long days in cutting boots and on spikes. No issues with spikes either. They’re still no alternative to a light pruning boot for silky jobs, but they are really nice, for a chainsaw boot. They are odd to put on, but you only put your boots on once a day and the tabs seem solid on mine at least.
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Yeah that’s what I’m talking about too. The first side is easy. The second, if it’s possible, is witchcraft.
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For a single eye, I can understand it. You could just pull the whole tail out of the cover, locking brummel using both ends and then pull it back through with a long wire fid. The second eye would be a different kettle of fish.
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Just saw this. How did you locking brummel the core + cover? Or did you do an exposed core locking brummel? Good results though, was it practical in use?
