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jarborist

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  1. Am was guessing same as you Paul. Sometimes you think it's around something and turns out it's not quite as you imagine when you get up there.
  2. As Joe said. As opposed to 'bone fide' subcontractor which eg they are given job sheet and go to site with their own truck chipper and groundsman. In my experience, as both freelance climber and employer if its relatively small some climbers feel Bad and sort it themselves and if it's big it's the main contractors job to sort it, but in law as far as I know : responsibility is as Joe said : same as if there's an accident, same reason you need employers liability even though he's not an employee. This is all pretty recognised clear in law now I thought - the nuance comes with how in charge of the job the climber is.
  3. Pete. Short answer - no. To expand answer will end up fairly lengthy. Get an arborist who recommends the same pruning and he will explain it all. If he recommends something else then it's a moot point.
  4. Mick, Can only go with my experience and observation, yours is obviously different /wrong 😊
  5. Agree with mtt tr. Bit of reduction, lift, thin but all lightly , should give you 3 years at least. Won't get swathes of light , yes you have to do it again , but it will give more light, and in my experience in this sort of situation works far better than a heavy cut .................its all a compromise.....................Just don't then be tempted to cut it heavier next time and the time after. Stubby has a point too.. move the greenhouse.
  6. Dan Maynard - I struggled to remember the zeppelin as well , until I heard an alternative name the 'b & q ' knot. After the occasional bit of frowning I haven't forgotten it since. Those who don't know it, you make a b with one end of rope and a q with the other , and then you are almost there.
  7. Don't disagree with any of your last post mick D, including the vibes part, . (when I said 'its a fairly hard job I was talking generally definitely not this particular job).
  8. Always interested how quickly tree surgeons say other tree surgeons have over priced a job, when in another conversation they will be pointing out how we can't charge enough with our overheads , and lack of recognition of skill. It happens on here a lot and on site too where one firm will say how expensive another firm is (usually based on one or two prices they have quoted against - not the others where the quote was too low/just right). I certainly don't support the rip off costing at an extreme end, but £500.00 - £1000.00. We should all wonder - how far is the tree surgeon travelling ( I know I sometimes get recommended and when I say on the initial phone call - no problem, but obviously it will cost more than someone local as I am far away the client sometimes seems surprised) , where's the tip site , and as Struie said in this example we don't know how long the drag is. I know even without felling it wont take long to dismantle , - but there's a fair amount of debris there. Yes you can do another job, but a lot of firms will need to tip off first, narrowing the timescale for further work . I definitely over fret about not wanting to over charge . Does the op mean £1000.00 including VAT ? We also know that we all have different angles in running trucks etc (big, small, 4x4) that mean we win on some and lose on some jobs, but that doesn't mean we over priced it - for us. Overall , unless its an obvious complete rip off my impression when we slate others is sometimes we are , at least unconsciously, saying - hey I'm really good I can do that quickly this other person is charging too much cos they cant do it as quickly. When really a lot of us wish we could charge more cos its a fairly hard job and it would be good to be able to keep doing it without working at 100mph every day and get some recognition for some effort involved - and that's without discussing getting rid of arisings, and the true , or perceived cost there. In the end this is a member of the public , and we all know how often people think the work should be done for the timber and a beer , why further that with all the negativity ? Struie I think you gave a great answer - and bit more succinct than mine . Jess - good luck with it , get a few quotes if you are not sure.
  9. I ve found a few of the stein trousers to be really good in hot countries.
  10. Basically what Dan blocker said. Done some similar and the ones I still see survived. The ones I dont see - don't know but suspect they are fine. Often hand dug the edges but as long as you tidy them up ( old handsaw etc) - it's all similar. Hope it goes well.
  11. Once dug the sides, severing the base is tricky and important as a surprisingly small root will stop it moving. Hand dig as far as you can beneath the root ball. When it comes to moving you can dig a ramp to pull it out/ access it and ' cheese wire it' by which I mean a cable pulled beneath base to sever all roots, be careful with this method not to pull upwards and slice the root ball in half.
  12. What friction hitch / system are you using? Eg. If you are on a hitchclimber or zigzag and looking for the cheapest option you could try srt out for ascent only - throw line in or after a tea break and going back up : base tie or choke on to top anchor: lanyard crossed over back of shoulder onto hitchclimber, cinch very tight so it's uncomfortable. Footlock up - when you get to top revert to ddrt. Have a means of descent in case of mishap on way up - ie extra friction - this could be a krab with munter (italian) hitch below the friction hitch. Everything you add is gravy. As always practice low and slow and understand what you are doing before trying it. Xtc will be OK for this set up. After a while realise how good it is and buy foot cam, sling (or harness) instead of lanyard, rope wrench, knee ascender, another rope, personally wouldn't put any cammed device above friction system unless I had just the right gear/rope etc.
  13. Rules are for the odedience of fools and the guidance of wise men.

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