Ray1
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Everything posted by Ray1
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That is for the chimney swept on one open fire.
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Take the exhaust off and have a look at the piston and see what shape its in.
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The bloke who does mine has never offered me a certificate for insurance, he just takes £42 for 20 mins work and goes.
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I think standard setting on both needles is 2 and a half turns out.
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Just priced up both parts and they come in just over £100, thats the full complete recoil starter and the top handle housing . Dont know where the £15 is from, the top handle housing is £41.34 plus vat part number 1129 790 1015
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The only after market one ive fitted was to a MS180 and the taper on the crank was machined to a different angle to the flywheel taper. Reassembled it all before i found out the flywheel wouldnt fit.
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First thing to check on after market crank is the taper to taper fit on the flywheel. Dont rebuild it then find out the flywheel wont fit on.
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I think Stihl's preferred choice would be the ones they sell at an extortionate price. Last time i looked they were £250 plus and only came with blanking plates to cover a certain model of saw. Buy a quality pump that produces vacuum and pressure and make your own blanking plates. A good pump and enough rubber to make them should last you a life time and be about a quarter of the cost of Stihl's own.
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FS400 Brush Cutter... Carb or seals.. Vaccum test.
Ray1 replied to champagnecharly's topic in Maintenance help
I like to make sure they dont leak at all or if they leak slowly find out where its coming from. Ive even been known to put a full engine in a bucket of water to trace a very slow leak. -
FS400 Brush Cutter... Carb or seals.. Vaccum test.
Ray1 replied to champagnecharly's topic in Maintenance help
Cheap carb from Hong Kong off Ebay? -
It is part of the fuel tank. ms200t fuel tank | eBay
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Agreed the shoes look too far apart, Has it had a new carrier fitted? this could be the wrong size causing the shoes to be too far apart and the springs to be over stretched and when the saw is running, the springs dont have enough give in them to allow the shoes to fully touch with the sprocket causing it to slip when in the cut.
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It could just be the light on the photo or my eyes as its early, but those clutch springs look far too stretched.
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Stihl HL95 Spares - SPARES & PARTS This link may help, My copy of Mediacat shows 2 carbs were fitted C1Q-S131C AND C1Q-S110D
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Whats wrong with the carbs? and i would be wary of putting in a 12 quid piston kit.
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Nowt wrong with that, wind it up by hand, pair or needle nose pliers and in it goes. If your trying to wind it directly into the housing, remove the air guide its easier.
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So it revs up fine and when the chain touches a log the chain just stops and the engine still revs fine? If so whats the condition of the spur sprocket, ive seen them worn through so the chain just slips round when not in the cut and when in the cut the sprocket slips round the chain.
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Good news, do you think they parked it up for a while to see if it was found (had a tracker fitted) and were going to go back for it later if it was still there. Ive heard of it happening with large plant. I wouldnt be surprised if someone was driving past every few days to see if it was still there.
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I would call that nigh on mint compared to some i've seen.
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Stihl cylinder/piston kits. Genuine or non-genuine?
Ray1 replied to Charles Ekin's topic in Chainsaws
Thats the problem, it would be best to send the full engine and control handle so it can be completely tested, its only 3 screws to remove the full unit. -
Stihl cylinder/piston kits. Genuine or non-genuine?
Ray1 replied to Charles Ekin's topic in Chainsaws
Why do you need to change it, is it beyond repair? I would rather fit a second hand original top end on it than a copy. It shares the same piston as a 023 or 025 chainsaw, cant remember which one without looking at the books. -
Does the saw rev up ok when its not under load?
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Yes the guide is pressed in and are not available as a separate part.
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Piston should be fine, its the con rod that should be the worry, ive seen many 4mixes that have dropped a valve and the con rod has slightly bent. With the valve seats you may be extremely lucky but ive only ever seen a few that are not damaged due to a dropped valve. Where the spring sits there should be no wear, unless you mean the valve guide. Post a pic. The valves keep breaking due to using wrong oil and lack of maintenance.
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I suspect someone has fiddled with them because the saw was running badly to start with. If the saw was running well then started to play up and then someone has then fiddled with the carb to try and get the saw working again, it wasnt the carb settings that were at fault in the first place there is another issue somewhere that needs to be sorted first.
