Eddy_t

Personally, I think it's a statement so you don't just leave em ticking over, although adw has commented on another thread that it only resets the bottom end, now (I have a feeling that the techies are just as clueless as us in what actually happens with the carb). Mine runs fine, but I believe that there are 2 kinds of saw users, those that can run a husky, and those that can't. The same names crop up time after time!

£108.9 for diesel here, £112.9 for petrol

Have you not used a battery saw? They're heavier than a 35/40cc saw! For the guide at they pull, they weigh the same as a much bigger saw.

Have you plugged the ported 560 you did into it?

Not any time soon, but I believe it's in the pipeline from literature I've seen snippets of.

I was told that it resets after idling for 3 minutes then being turned off by husky technical. But most of the information is gained from the patents, which are surprisingly detailed given that they are to stop people copying an idea! Most of the problems come from partial throttle, which even on a 'normal' saw causes excessive coking. A decreased outlet on the muffler exacerbates the problem more. Poor running due to coked up ports has been seen on other machines, I believe there's one or two mentioned on the bench thread. If I got 1mm of overall coking after 50 hours, with intermittent running on aspen, I'm sure it's far worse on others equipment. Regarding air filters, if you don't need to clean it daily, you're not working hard enough it does state in the manual that it's a daily clean, and they teach you that on a chainsaw course!

Wrong quote, but evening rich! How's you?

Haven't heard any unreported failures... Actually I've never seen a faulty 560xp, heard reports of them, seen how to fix them, and suchlike. But I do believe that 50% is operator error when people moan on here. The same problems happened prior to electronic carbs, but now people have something new to blame. Then of those that do use the new tech, 95% don't understand how it works and they're the ones that blame it for going wrong all the time. No doubt that when the strato engines first hit shelves they were blamed for every fault, they still are labeled as inferior by a lot on here. Educating people on operation would be the best fix, but as you know from your research on fuel and oil, you can lead a horse to water...

John, no matter how much you try and discredit the autotune or m-tronic systems, it all boils down to the fact that when they're running fine, they're great. It's what puts a smile on your face when you use it that counts.

Ring logs up with it for a day or two. Basically run it like you stole it

How'd you flood it?! Yes, you can replace the carb, but you'll need a new top handle and coil too.

Yes, a muffler mod makes a fair bit of difference, but not as much as ported.

Go on then, point out what's wrong with it.

You're using the jaso FD oil, which is the highest grade, although I would believe that TCD's favourite oil would be the best option as it is a racing oil (which saps the heat away better). As a note, there's a heap of updated parts coming for the 540 soon, so you might want to hold off the porting until then!

A quick bit of googling, £770 from f r Jones for PHO. So you have a choice, £600 for a 6 year old, low hours saw, or £170 buys a brand new one with 2 years warranty.

When I say set the saw up, I mean how do you calibrate the carb? As most of us are aware, the saws 'tune' themselves, but the initial setup is very important. The system works on a magnet attached to the throttle, which activates one of two magnetic circuit gates, either WOT or idle. It doesn't tune the saw on part throttle, which, if anything, screws up the system, as neither circuit is completed. If the magnet and gates become mis-aligned problems quickly set in. It was a documented thing on arboristsite where one guys linkage had done this, registering the throttle as 6% open at idle and 94% at WOT, making the saw only partially tune itself. I set the high rpm by allowing to tune with no load, don't blip the throttle to warm the saw, as rpm is falling as it registers WOT, and rising at idle (causing the machine to register an over-rich at WOT, and over-lean at idle), about 30 seconds of free-load run time should set high rpm. Allowing the saw to idle for 3 minutes before shutting off the engine causes the calibration to reset to factory settings on a 'safe' mode (over-rich). I have seen the problems described with the 540 on each one I've handled, but the climbers who use them insist they know better than my advice on how to run said saw... -Pull the spark screen if you have not already. -Make sure the air filter is cleaned DAILY. -Don't let the saw idle for too long between cuts, >2mins turn the saw off. If your saws have passed the warranty period, get a muffler mod, after 50 hours of run-time, my 560 had .5-1mm of coking on the exhaust port (before it was ported), which is an excessive amount in the given hours, but due to emissions regs, the mufflers are heavily restricted (the outlet is about 8mm diameter, the same size as what people are drilling into the ms150, a saw 1/3 of the cc). Given how tiny the 560's outlet is, I dread to think how small it is on the 540. This also aids the cooling of the saw! In fact, you can see the coking of the port and where I'd scraped it off with a carb screwdriver. It's also worth noting that when I wasn't using the saw in my employment workplace, I was using aspen, which helps remove any coking! And as a comparison, the added outlet on the muffler is only an inch diameter. What oil do you use? As I was running on Stihl hp ultra at that time, if you're running on hp, husky HP, or any Jaso FB oil, you're probably going to have a much worse build up.

1. Yes 2. Widening intake, exhaust ports, transfers and a muffler mod 3. Spud or petermate390xp, most use spudulike. 4. That's between you and spud to discuss! Ported saws are like marmite tbh, I love em, many people do too, but I've worked with lads who have tried and hated them as they're "too powerful". Are you planning on doing it yourself or sending it away?

1.5mm is narrow kerf .404, best try baileys and suchlike

Brake band is a consumable part, so that doesn't really reflect on a saw. But resetting the carb 3 times, and new plugs... It would be interesting to see the carb data and plugs. How did you set the saw up after the reset? Also regarding the carb clean, make sure the magnetic sensors line up. That can cause a problem if not, and they're easily knocked out of sync.

So, other than the cylinder, what has your dealer done to the saws?

You're either really unlucky to have picked 2 bad ones... Or it's operator error, meaning you're doing something extremely wrong. A few little pointers: don't leave them idling for a few minutes before turning them off. Make sure you run the initial set up.

You finished the job yet?

That's quite an opening! 100mm^2! Make sure you keep an eye on the plug colour!

I have the 201TC-M and 150TC, I've also used (and had to retune) a 193TC. The 193 literally fits the middle ground between the two. It's good for taking limbs off, but the 150 is better for light reductions, whilst the 201M is better for chogging down or large branch removal, although the 193 will do that, just slower. Really you can only compare build quality and price. The 193 is a pure clam design, so can't be modded as much as the 201 or 150, but it's similar to the 150 in plastic parts, it has a primer and metal dogs are an optional extra.

My muffler mod on my 560xp I prefer a pipe rather than a hole, you could also do louvres, which are multiple angled slits, or fit a deflector over the hole