pleasant
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Everything posted by pleasant
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My tree overhanging neighbours land, Can I prune it?
pleasant replied to milonic's topic in Trees and the Law
Aside from being a cantankerous old 'thing' I really don't see an issue. You are cutting off your branches from your side of the boundary and the branches and any other detritus are being roped directly back over to your side. If you are that concerned then rig up a go pro for the duration. -
My tree overhanging neighbours land, Can I prune it?
pleasant replied to milonic's topic in Trees and the Law
Crack on. Its your tree, and therefore your debris, which you are clearing up and you aren't trespassing by setting foot on your neighbours land. What reason would they have to object? -
From a company called TriLink
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Wasn't he the lead singer of A-HA?
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Stihl Synthplus is Rheopectic...the opposite of Thixotropic. A Thixotropic fluid becomes thinner as it is agitated. For example, the last of the ketchup in the bottom of the bottle. What do you do to get it out? Shake it vigorously and if will become more fluid so you can pour it out. Stihl Synthplus chain oil is very fluid when poured and whilst in the reservoir, however once it has made its way to a rotating chain it thickens and sticks to the chain due to agitation and chain speed. The advantages are such, that the more fluid the oil, the quicker and easier it will get through to the chain via the pipes and pump
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This is one of those, that someone with a lot of experience will just look at it and instantly see what the problem is. Very difficult to make any judgement as to the issue without seeing it....as all these differing suggestions elude to. Like they say, a picture paints a thousand words
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Why not just buy the correct flywheel in the first place??
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With respect, you should be wiser as several, including myself have advised either the stihl lighter bio chain oil specifically sold for your application, or the makita stuff which would appear similar. Those are the correct grade to use....as you have already found out by using regular chain oil which is unsuitable. The fact the correct stuff is quite expensive so you are unwilling to use it doesnt make you less well informed, just that you dont want to spend that kind of money. You should be a lot wiser now.
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Nicking it you mean?
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Whenever I hear Black Pudding mentioned it always reminds me of this sketch. About the 1.05 mark should do it.
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More to do with dressing the bar rails to level them up on the top due to uneven rail wear...not the mushrooming on the side of the rails
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We get quite a few smart arses collecting rotary mowers that have been in for service, peering underneath as we help load it up and telling us to unload it as we haven't sharpened the blade..........true the underside of the blade doesn't look sharpened...because you only sharpen the upper (hidden) side at the 30 degree angle required. I just tell them to lift the deflector flap up and peer inside at the blade and they will see it's been done properly. One guy wasn't convinced and even told us to sharpen the underside before he would pay!
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Use a bench grinder........with 25 years of experience doing it.
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If you can find one of these, they are fantastic. We have one in the workshop. Been discontinued from Oregon for sometime, but they pop up on the 'bay' from time to time. A lot of people don't even know what it is!
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Will this help? https://logsauce.shop-pro.jp/?pid=166436107
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You'll be lucky to get a straight answer to that question. Wasn't even forthcoming with the reason why they had to disassemble the engine in the first place when asked. I suspect, because if it had a scored piston and cylinder, then the OP's question about the dealer allegedly swapping piston sizes over and what should they do about it would make the question irrelevant, and the OP would have had to buy a new pot and piston at cost to themselves anyway, so the fact it may have had a smaller diameter piston fitted wouldn't have made the slightest bit of difference so the question was pointless as to what a dealer should do and how they should approach them- which is presumably why they were being evasive when asked.
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Yup...farmers are under the impression (unlike their Range Rovers) all machinery will continue to function perfectly regardless of zero maintenance and abuse by untrained operators. (I know not ALL farmers fall into that category, but the vast majority of my farmer customers do)
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True....farm hands usually make the best mechanics. Can normally repair any 2 or 4 stroke machine within 24 hours you know. "I can rebuild any two or four stroke engine, overnight if necessary for the next day, most farmers I know can do it too“ strange, as most farmers are my customers.
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First thing i change if i have one in with one of those fitted....even if its unrelated! Oh.....and Torch plugs the same
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Well, there isnt a lot left with the electrics.....i know you said youve changed the plug, but years ago a similar issue arose with me. Spent ages testing all the electrics...to the plug out held it up against the body of the machine...great spark couldn't find anything else awry, so went back to the plug....this time no spark..changed plug and away it went. When i inspected the original plug if i held it up...great spark, but if i held it with the electrode facing downwards the internal insulator had broken away from the central core, slid down the copper core shaft and made contact with the electrode and cut the spark. Never come across it before and never since, but its always something i now check.
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So. it's had two new plugs (the original and the new replacement) It's had two new flywheels (the original and your mates replacement) Its had two new modules (the original and the new replacement) You have tested the switch wiring Did the ht lead come with a new coil or did you have to unscrew and reuse the original? Have you tried it without the ground lead on the module connected? Is the ignition switch when in the on position clearing the brass earthing strip positively- not all lose so when you pull the machine over it can wobble and earth it out?
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I wouldnt blame the farmers....tends to be the 'tractor drivers' they tend to employ
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Scored piston I read into that.
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Maybe, if you had started your OP by saying 'I've scored by piston on my relatively new MS291, and to my surprise when I got it apart it had the smaller diameter piston for an MS271, do you think the dealer would have done this as it was already on the shelf assembled, or would it have come from the factory like it? Wording it like that, does away of any inference of warranty and the invalidation thereof. It also really makes the point of whether a dealer had swapped cylinders or not irrelevant now, as you would be having to pay for a 'correct' MS291 pot and piston anyway due to your error. Just a thought, eh?
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Would be rather nice for all of us out of pure curiosity if you answered the actual question I posed in the first paragraph, now we have established that you are a brilliant mechanic/farmer/debater
