GardenKit

Easy to compare pitch, not so easy to compare guage. Huskie have a 23 chain but its a full chisel. The makers name is often stamped on the ties, but you may need your glasses!

No need to feel guilty, everyones happy!

Surely you are limited to the Gross Train Weight when towing with a van, so is it worth doing? Or have the rules changed?

By the way Martin, you were just in time, the scrap man turned up just 15 minutes after you had dived into the skip!

Nice one Martin. Yes, I knew the compression was quite good, but had not gone into the carb as I hate those plastic walbro's, and the guy was up for a new machine anyway. I had swapped his "jet fit" head to his new machine, hence no head. Good to see my scrap recycled!

apl1976, welcome to the forum. What part of there clutch has broken? Is it the actuator (top) bit, or the friction part on the bottom to which the blade bridge bolts?

Make sure the sparkplugs have been gapped to 20 thou, rather than just shoved in from the box, that should do the trick.

Thanks, but the problem with speculative answers is that they are taken as gospel by some people. I prefer to only state what I know I know, rather than what I think I know:001_smile:

The tube is available c/w the liner at around £55 plus vat, or the liner is available seperately at around £11 plus vat. Before ordering though, be sure of the exact model (K, L etc) as the shaft lengths differ.

There have been several Heritage models from Hayter, with different formats of engine and body. Most have been made by Murray. There was a Countax badged as a Hayter, but not sure that it was named Heritage. Anyway, back to the starting. The grass box will have no effect on the starting whatsoever, so rule that out. But the blade engagement lever need to be in neutral. The brake pedal will need to be depressed though, and on some models you will need to be on the seat, and the gearstick must be in neutral. If you are sure that there is no spark, and that its not a fuel or air issue, then you can disconnect the coil earthing wire where it is joined beside the engine. With this disconnected the engine is isolated from all safety switches and should start. You will only be able to stop it by earthing the wire or choking it to death, so do not use it with it disconnected. if it does start like this then you have to check all the wiring and safety switches one at a time until you find the faulty one, but at least you have proved the engine ignition.

Sorry Goaty, I cant be of any sensible help on this one, anything I say would be speculalative rather than based on my experience, and thats just a waste of words. But there may be someone out there.....

Can always get on with some work on a Sunday morning. No phones, no customers. Decided to have a 'red' morning, so got these serviced. Just stopped for a cofee and sarnie, then 2 to do this afternoon. Did the Stiga's yesterday.

Nothing in mind at present, but I often get machines in for 'service' that need more time (and money) spent on them to firstly identify, then fix, faults. Customers often decide to 'move on' and buy new, rather than spend on investigation and repair, as well as a service. If I was less busy I may be tempted to spend some time on these 'scrappers' as it could be there is not much wrong, but as it is I usually just skip them. Its the sort of thing I tried 'selling' on the forum with proceeds to charity, but it got a little difficult when members started bonbarding me with questions about what was wrong. The point is that I just do not know, as I had not spent diagnosis time. I will post some up on here again when I get some.

You need to invest in a small hydraulic press Steve. Do you always polish your pullers before a photo shoot?

I had a saw in a while ago with a similar noise. I think it may have been a 440. The problem on this one was the other side. A crankcase bolt had come loose behind the flywheel and had worked its way out until it was touching the rear face of the flywheel. It might be worth a look.

I might show you how its done one day:biggrin:

I get plenty of 'challenges' you can have for free. Not so far to travel either, and much safer territory. Someone once told me never to look anyone in the eye in Tiverton!

No, No, No, No No NOOOOOO! To make such a video would be just such a grind.

I am not all surprised Rich. £150 repair bill on a £50 second hand mower is a bit steep. But it would not be the first time. I even get many customers happy to pay £85 each year to service a £120 B&Q mower. Weird. Glad I could help though.

Already had to move the two JD's on the far right as I could not get in the front door!

If I spent more time working on them and less time lining them up, I might have a shorter queue!

Tip. Get a can of spray 'JIZER' and spray around the bits. Leave it to soak for 5 minutes then just blast it out with an airline. Then wash your face. Caution, always wear protection when using an airline. Note to Mendyplog, "Jizer" not "Cizer". (Though some of that Tuckers stuff may be stronger)

I only ever put SAE30 in Briggs engines. They will burn oil if using multigrade in our UK climate.

The sun has really got things moving. Two weeks ago nobody had any interest in mowing grass. Now they all want to. This little lot has come in during the last 5 days, and its still coming.

The Ultra oil seems to have been developed to combat some of the troubles that have plagued the Stihl 4-mix engines. It seems that deposits were building on the valves and guides as well as the combustion chamber causing failure. I believe that HP Ultra is a very low deposit, hence clean burn oil. What I find strange is that we all go on about using oils of JASO-FC or FD rating, yet HP Ultra is only an FB rating. I am sending you an email.