GardenKit

They do not need to test the fuel to prove that it has done the damage. The diaphragms, if deformed, will be sufficient proof. it would seem that the saw initially worked as it should, so it was, to use that overworked phrase, 'fit for purpose', as are all mainline saws. So something has changed in the time the saw has been used. The dealer has stated his expert opinion. It is now up to the OP to prove otherwise. If I was the dealer in question I would not have made my statement unless I was sure of my facts. The threat of 'the small claims court' would not phase me. If it was me (it's not) and I was in any doubt, I would have sent the saw ( or carb) to Huskie technical department for their opinion. It is really quite simple.

Sorry to spoil all of this for you, but yes, stale petrol can, and does damage carburettors. And petrol is deemed unsuitable for use after 30 days. Just read you operators book to confirm this. So the dealer in question may be correct, he is after all, the only expert to have seen this saw. He would I guess be only to happy to find a cause that he could pass under a warranty claim, but damage by contaminated fuel is, quite simply, not a warranty issue. Stale fuel will deform both the pumping diaphragm and the metering diaphragm, and the gauze filter will offer no protection. But, to be honest, the fuel would have to be considerably older than 4 or 6 weeks to cause damage, unless other contaminants were present. Such as water. Water in the fuel can sit in the carburettor metering chamber and quickly rust the metering arm and pin. Even so, a £100 repair bill does seem a little steep, but, with respect to the OP we have only heard one side of the story. And of course every customer denies having ever used stale fuel, so dealers do get a little fed up with having their leg lifted. But that is no excuse for them not keeping an open mind on every problem they see.

Welcome to the forum Rye Oil Ltd. We get a lot of oil related questions, so an oil expert will be a handy addition.

Anyway you can. Vise-grips, G-clamps, wooden blocks, proper blade clamp, combination of all the forementioned. Just remember that the air pressure could push the piston down either way, i.e to rotate the crank clockwise or anticlockwise, so you need to clamp both sides. If you are skilled and get the piston exactly TDC the force will be straight down the con rod and no rotation will take place, but still clamp it just in case. By taking it past TDC and bringing it back to just 'over the top', you should ony get clockwise rotation, but still lock both sides in case. If the fan cowling is off you may be able to lock the flywheel instead. but be careful not to snap off any fins with heavy handed application of vise-grips.

OK Bob, I will sack the lot and do them myself. Shame about losing the posh spoken narrator though:biggrin:

As you can see Steve, even though the older number was ordered, the newer one arrived, so all is good after all. It did not arrive until about 4:30, so will be posted on tomorrow.

Firstly Mike, no vid. Have you any idea of the production costs of one of my vids? Script writers, editors, producers, voice over celebrities, camera crew, sound crew etc. An astronomical amount. So, NO VID!! Secondly, The Leak Down Test. This is to test the sealing capability of the compression components, including Rings,Bore, Piston, Valves, Head, Head gasket, Valve seats. A regulated amount of pressurised air is used to pressure up the combustion chamber, and a gauge is used to show air loss in comparison with air input. The magnitude of the air loss indicates the severity of any problems. All engines, even new ones will have some loss, so as long as the loss is in the green section of the meter, the engine is good. If the needle is in the yellow or red sections then one, or more of the compression components is worn. By listening to the air leak it is possible to locate a specific component. Air heard hissing through the carb indicates inlet valve leakage. Through the exhaust indicates the exhaust valve. Air heard escaping around the head gasket indicates a head gasket failure, whilst air heard escaping through the dipstick hole indicates worn rings. The test is carried out on an engine that has been run for a few minutes to get it to operating clearances.. The spark plug is removed and the engine turned to TDC on the comp stroke, A screwdriver inserted through the plug hole and resting on the piston is used as an indicator for TDC. The engine must be 'locked' at TDC with a clamp plate, or, on a mower the blade can be locked. This is essential or the air pressure on the piston will rotate the engine with substantial force. Then install the gauge in the plughole and test. This tests the combustion chamber, not the crankcase, so a crank seal fault will not show up.

This seems a bit random, but one person will know what it means!! Happy with this mate? It will be on its way tomorrow.

Later...

No. Becuz I wyl luk stupyd.

That is a very neat job Warners and will pay off. Those covers have always been rubbish, just like many other Hayter bits, and they just do not do anything to improve it. Crazy

Those bolts can be tricky to get a grip on. You will need a very good 10mm 1/4 drive socket. If the socket has a bit of a 'lead' into the hex then grind a bit off the end of the socket so the max amount of hex engages with the shallow bolt head. If the socket is thick walled then you may need to grind down the outer diameter as well in order to fit into the plastic recess. Hope this is clear.

Exactly

Not worth filming that Mike, just flick them out with a screwdriver, as long as the notch is at the front.

remember this Rich? http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/33857-whats-your-bench-today-216.html#post797178

That's understandable mate, but don't give up too easily.

For me its a matter of having to do it Rich. If I don't do whatever comes my way then I don't earn. It is that simple.

If any of you have a Hayter Harrier 41, 48, or 56 with a variable speed transmission that does not change speeds, then this is the problem. The variator central pulley sheaves should be free to slide up and down the central splines, but they invariably do not slide. Its strange really because both the internal and external splines are made of nylon so they do not rust. But the problem with nylon is that it 'grows' and seizes up. This is a very common problem on Hayter mowers and has been since this variator was introduce 14 years ago. Hayter have never done anything to rectify the problem.

Had a bit of an influx of 2t machines over the last week. Early start tomorrow methinks

Its damn difficult holding them camera in my teeth, operating the compressor and talking at the same time Rich. At least my video is not upside down:001_rolleyes:

Here it is, sorry for the quality, i did it quickly because I wanted my tea. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t25NpgyGs2w]The Briggs valve spring compressor - YouTube[/ame]

Watch this space Mike. Video being uploaded at the moment. God, it's a slow job. I shot a quick vid before I left work this evening. Its on a Briggs engine though. I have not done a tecumseh for years.

that plug looks just fine to me.

I'll be glad when the work eases off a bit, but that will probably not be until easter. One good thing about working on a Sunday is that there are no interruptions as the shop is shut. I managed to stay off Arbtalk and completed 5 full Garden Tractor services. Thats all the ones that came in last week done. Back to 2t stuff tomorrow, and interruptions.

There was a thread on this in the past. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/37131-chainsaw-oil-specifications-etc.html hope this helps