GardenKit
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Everything posted by GardenKit
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That stopped me in my tracks Beau. Had to delete my post very quickly!
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And a quick check of the Briggs and Stratton tools catalogue indicates that my Briggs one is indeed a Tiny Tach 20K workshop version!
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Sounds familiar, I reckon thats what mine is too.
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I have a couple. One is the Stihl one, forget the exact model at present. It can be used either with a wire pickup, or inductively, but to be fair I find the inductive mode a bit hit and miss, but when testing something like a 200t i just poke some of the wire through the cover so that it touches the HT lead and 'bingo' I have just bought a Briggs and Stratton one. its a Tiny Tach but quite a large one. It works well inductively and will pick up a signal through engine cowlings, either from the plug or the coil. If you can't get it in a position to see the 'live' reading, you just press the button and it holds the max reading on the screen. But the display is difficult to see at certain angles.
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Might be worth having a look at the Eliet machines. They are more 'shredder' than chipper and deal easily with brash. A few nails and stones won't hurt them either. Demos can be easily organised by their own sales manager.
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If its a lean sieze then ther should still be an oily film over the iinside of the crankcase and over the crank and rod. If it was run accidentally on neat petrol it will be a lubeless sieze and every thing will have been solvent washed by the neat petrol and be totally dry.
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Thats a bit of of downer mate. Is there any oily dampness in the tank and crankcase, or is it bone dry?
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If would never drop mowers. They are easy money. Chainsaws however? If I could drop them I would, in an instant. Its just so difficult to make money out of them. Brushcutters and hedge cutters are not too bad though.
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I do service outboards Steve, but only my own. If I was ever short of work I would take them on, I am often asked to. But I am never short of work.
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Not to mention the damage that can occur to those saws that are not serviced. I often see the cooling fins totally blocked with the glue from bio oil. Cooling fins are there to cool, blocked ones not only prevent airflow, but effectively insulate the ally resulting in very poor heat conductivity from the cylinder to the air. The result? Possible seizure, or baked crank seals, followed by lean seize. It does happen.
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I agree Rich. With the last two wet autumns I have seen an increasing amount of transmission problems with Roller mowers, especially those with split rollers. Hayters get the water and mud in the freewheels between the two roller halves and they rust up and fall apart. Honda's get water in the end bearings and they seize up, then the roller shaft wears away. They also get moisture in the gearbox seals which then fail and the gearbox eventually falls apart. John Deere gets moisture in the roller bearings and 'sprags' which then rust and fail. And they all get clagged with mud. If I was grass cutting for a living I would put the roller mower to one side in wet and muddy times and use a more forgiving 4 wheeler.
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I am getting a bit worried. Work keeps coming in. Much faster than I can get it done. Over 70 machines in the queue at the moment.......HELP!!!
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I had serviced a guys ride-on mower for 9 years, always properly invoiced and properly paid. Then he asks " we have known each other for a long time, how about doing it for cash this year?" I said "sorry, not worth the risk" He says " Shame, but i understand. No-one would ever have known though, I am very discreet" I say "Yes, its a shame, but the answer is still no" He says " I only thought to ask, as I have just paid my builder £8000 in cash for the extension" So much for discretion, there was a blooming great sign on the scaffolding with the local builders name on it!! Then to cap it all he says " I told my mates at the golf club I would ask you, they will all be gutted" The moral? Do not trust anyone.
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This gearbox from a John Deere R54RKB (54cm roller mower) has failed. The nylon gearwheel has lost its teeth. I have sold many hundred JD mowers and have never seen this problem, but at least there was an obvious cause of this failure. The rear roller had picked up so much mud and compacted it between the roller and the mower body that it was acting as a brake on the roller. The gearbox had worked against this load until the teeth stripped. It is testament to the strength of the clutch and the grip of the belt that this could happen. Many other mowers would have slipped the clutch so easily that this could not happen. It was a bit fiddly fitting the new box though, not the easiest to access.
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Thats right, a lump of steel will retain its heat much longer than a lump of ally.
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Yes Eddy, Aluminium has a greater thermal conductivity than steel. In other words, it absorbs heat faster.
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I had my 7yr old grandson at work with me and he soon got bored, so I gave hin a perfectly good Honda GCV135 engine to tinker with. He wanted to see inside, so he took it apart (with a little help, but not much) Thought I would post some pics for those of you who have not seen inside one of these OHC engines. The OHC is driven by a timing belt as can be seen. There is no cylinder head on these mowers, so no gasket to blow, and the plastic cam sits on top driving the valves via followers. The centrifugal governor sits in the bottom of the sump. If you ever need parts for any engine you need the engine type and serial numbers and the photo shows where to find them on one of these engines.
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The gearboxes are actually very robust, but the clutch consists of a steel 'dog clutch' Any dog clutch will wear on the corners if not fully, and quickly engaged. So to get the best life out of the clutch, Honda state in their owners manual " engage the clutch firmly and quickly" The older manuals even stated to push the mower forward before engaging the clutch, thereby allowing the clutch to engage without 'ratcheting' (and thus wearing) This 'push before engaging' method will greatly extend the life of the transmission on any mower.
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I did a bit of research on this a while ago, Steve, but read that carbon steel inserts should not be used in aluminium heads. There seem to be two reasons 1, Steel dissipates heat slower than Aluminium, so the plug cannot cool quick enough and may overheat. 2, Aluminium expands about 2.5 times faster than steel, so the insert becomes slack quickly, I was put off using steel because of this. It seems that Anodized aluminium inserts should be used. I have never done either so cannot comment from experience, but will be interested to hear your results. Barrie
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From the description of the proplem I would say the Rotostop is at fault. This is the device that connects the engine crank to the blade. Whilst starting the engine the crank should turn without attempting to turn the blade. The blade should be 'braked' to stop it spinning. Normally the engine starts freely, and then operating the blade enagement lever causes the clutch to engage the blade with the crank at the same time as the blade brake is released. Yours appears to be siezed so you are turning the blade against the brake whilst trying to start. Dissmantle, clean and inspect it. Check that the central bearing is not siezed, or siezing.
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i'll try to post a video!
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To be fair Bob, that method does not work on all engines. But most others have bolt on recoil units so are easier. The rope welding together trick however, can be applied to most recoils even when they are off the machine. It saves hours trying to poke floppy things into small holes.
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I sold one just last week. The guy is chuffed to bits. Less than £300.
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Never to old to learn Dave. The trouble is, I am to old to remember what I have learnt
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Back Pack Blowers
