GardenKit

"thats not warranty thats covering it sir, its sshh it , and furthermore its yours. So clean it yourself" Customer liaison has always been my strong point.

Did I miss something Rich? How long have you had a new workshop?? Pics please.

Give a thought for us mechanics. Some people use their mower for picking up the doggy things, and then expect us to work on it. One old guy bought a garden vac from us the other day and immediately sucked up a doggy doo, in a bag! The brought it back for me to unblock "as its new and covered by warranty":biggrin:

A mere 10, apparently. (excluding those in the 2t oil)

I have heard that, but have yet to find any spec sheets to back this up.

Fuel stabilisers ccertainly help to combat the rapid deterioration of petrol and are in my opinion essential for those who have no wish to switch to alylate fuel. But please remember that Aspen has many other advantages not offered by stabilisers.

Then my next move would be to clean, and re-kit tbe carb. I suspect that the pump diaphragm is damaged or distorted. So, as peatff says, the fuel is gravity feeding, but not being pumped up when the carb is higher than the tank.

I would say that firstly you check that the fuel hose and filter is free to always flop to the lowest point of the tank.

The Jaso spec is only a very small part of the oils makeup. Even a cheap oil base can meet the jaso with the right formulation, but other things such as clean burn with low deposits are important.

Would need the model code, normally found under the seat. The trouble with Mtd parts is the price though, which would likely make the decision easy. Scrap it, get another mower! Seriously though, you have done the work now, make the most of it.

Its certainly blowing here, I have never known a gale like this. Big old oak up the road has just come down, it was a noble tree, what a shame.

Looks an excellent job Mike:thumbup:. But to be honest, I try to keep away from patching decks, as in many cases once you start, you have to keep welding and chasing rust every year. Plus, as you have no doubt found out, it consumes a lot of time, so at my dealership rates its really not cost effective long term. Best, in my opinion, to fit a new deck shell now and be able to guarantee the work.

It is a testament to Aspen sales that Stihl are now introducing Motomix to the UK market, where, until recently, they thought there was no demand. I think Stihl,s decision will be seen by many as an endorsement of Alkylate fuel, particularly amongst the doubters, who have sometimes stated that warranty is void when using Aspen. This always was erroneous, but now, with Stihl recommending Alkylate, many doubts will be put to rest and ALL alkylate fuels will be taken much more seriously and its use will soon become the norm. The question will then be "which one to buy?" Aspen, which has often been branded as too expensive, now becomes the cheaper alternative to Motomix which is priced at £20 per 5 litres. The oil in Aspen is also higher grade at JASO FC, as opposed to Stihls which is only FB rated. Interesting times ahead methinks, let battle commence. Of course though, if you want straight four stroke Alkylate, Aspen is still the only option.

This plug has come out of a Tanaka hedgetrimmer run on Aspen. It is used heavily enough in a domestic situation to need a sharpen every year, and this plug was put in a year ago. Just shows how clean Aspen burns.

Putting the clock to good use for my advertising Dan.

If you have stale fuel now, then you may already have problems which need fixing, either now or in the future. The best bet initially is to drain it, the put fresh mix in and run the saw. This will flush out the stale fuel and the solvents present in fresh fuel may dissolve gum from the stale fuel. This might just save the saw. Then you could run it dry, but the trouble with that is that the rubber parts could dry out and crack. Best, in my opinion to put Aspen in (after the fresh petrol) and run it through, then store it wet with the Aspen

I would like to be able to tell you exactly how to do it, but its been awhile since I had a 75 apart and I really cannot remember! Something in the back of my mind says there are a couple of sneaky ones, but it will be quite obvious when you start.

Yeah, they can be right sods, even with the Allen key trick. The one I chose this morning was not the easiest, just when I wanted it to look slick!

Its very simple. The Stihl is a bit more difficult to split than my favourite Tanaka machines but they are still easy enough to do. Just take the engine off the gearbox, keep on taking screws out until it comes apart!

I had a quick go at a video for cleaning those Honda carbs. Its not too clear and a little out of focus but I did not have time to do it again. Its a quick clean without taking out the welch plug.

Sounds like it may be a clutch problem rather than an idle problem. If the clutch is not disengaging then you wont get an idle. Check clutch springs and shoes.

It would not be possible turn the saw in reverse as the recoil would simply ratchet round, but would then try to turn the saw on the recoil which is why it would not go back in. If the spring was in the right way round it will now be fubared, so i reckon it was in the wrong way when you rewound it.

Very likely to need a carb clean. The jets and nozzle get blocked easily on these carbs. A deep clean will normally do it, but just occassionally we have to fit a new carb.

Not adjustable, sorry. But check that max engine speed, it makes a lot of difference to forward speed.

Yes, They are marketed in the UK by Danarm. They have 19" and 21" models with, and without Rollers. Standard and Pro spec machines. The 19" ones sport a Kawasaki engine, whilst the 21" have the Honda GXV160