GardenKit

It does sound like a timing issue, so it could be the flywheel sa H-A says, so worth a check. But before getting too involved, change the spark plug, it could be that simple. I had one like this a few years ago and it turned out to be the ignition module (coil). The internal timing control had failed.

She told the builder she wanted a wood front door, none of that plastic rubbish!

Not too sure about an import, it may have different carburation to a UK model. Anyone thinking of buying a Tanaka top handle would be better buying the TCS3401, it has only 1 more cc but 18% more power. And it has a 2yr Pro User Warranty. Only £50 more at RRP.

I bet its not far from the truth, and its not just that street. Its the next street, and the next, and the next.

I agree, but I bet you would not employ any of them!

I reckon its actually making a lot of other folks much happier about their lives.

Hang on Rich, I'll get me coat and come with you...

and loads of beer, and fags, and cannabis……… Tough life. But I feel like a very fortunate man in comparison, and thats not just money.

I always advocate regular greasing of the clutch drum bearing, as dry bearings soon fail. The nose sprocket however???? Juries still out on that.

And, if you port saws for others, make sure you have some Public liability insurance. Once modified, the person who modified it will assume liability for it in the event of a mishap. The manufacturer will be off the hook.

The Tanaka performs well usually. One of my customers now has two and rates them above his previous Ms200T's. So maybe yours does need a bit of tweaking, but to be fair the dealer should have done that before handing over the saw. As I recall, the screws have an external flat (or splines) and require the proper tool.

I guess you may not be too happy either, because I always spray carb cleaner on the surface and give it a hard rub before putting on the sticker:biggrin:

To be honest, it takes almost as long to write the list as it does to do it. Most of the 'checks' are instinctive and performed by sight, sound, feel and experience. So the service not as technical as the description makes it appear. The sharpening is the biggest part of a hedgetrimmer service. Oh, and putting the stickers on.

Always proud to put my name on my work. I have never had a single complaint. You must be unique, Mr Rover:001_smile:

To be honest Rich, I do not always change the air filter. If they are still firm and not too dirty I will sometimes clean them in carb cleaner and blow them through from the inside with an airline. As long as they will allow unresticted air through and not break up they should be OK. If they have gone limp and soggy they get changed. If the starter cord is not frayed or too short it will not be changed as a matter of course. Damaged recoil handles will always be replaced. Always new plug though, and always sharpened.

I'm not quite sure what forum rules have to do with it Rich, but this is what I would do on a Stihl hedgecutter service. Run it up before service and observe all functions, problems etc. Give it a good clean outside, particularly around the carb and tank Empty the tank and blow out. Check,clean or change the fuel filter. Check the fuel hoses and grommets, check the primer bulb. Attend to as needed. Check carb mounting bolts. If it was running fine then no need to dissmantle carb, but if any problems then dissmantle, clean and re-kit carb (charged extra over service) Check throttle cable Clean or replace air filter as required. Change spark plug and check HT lead. Check exhaust firmness, check for carbon in outlet, clean spark arrestor. Check starter mechanism and replace cord if required. Check AV,s (if fitted) Check handles for firmness and or damage Check condition of blades (damage, cracks etc) check all blade bolts for tightness (making sure spacers are present) Remove gearbox bottom cover, clean out old grease, check bearings, gears and cams, relube and refit. Sharpen blades (I do mine assembled, no need to dissmantle) Fill with Aspen2 and fit aspen sticker Run machine, lubricate blades, tune carb and tach max revs, check idle speed, clutch engagement and engine pickup Fit 'service done by' sticker and write out bill (in my case £60 inc vat and parts) hope this helps

I often get customers who ask if i can sell ther unwanted kit "on a commision basis". I always refuse. I will sometimes buy it myself to sell on, but its got to be cheap enough or its not worth the hastle. I dont know what to suggest in your case though Steve, difficult. Just don't do it again!

If the gauze filter were blocked, I cant see it being OK again for weeks. I reckon its got to be a kill switch fault, or a short in the wires to the switch from the coil. Maybe its flexing due to a sloppy AV or two.

I let my accountant sort my tax. Worth every penny.

Good luck with your thread Steve. But, I'm out:biggrin:

I usually keep one in stock as they are needed quite often. Part number 5380224-24/5 and retail at £6.17 plus vat. Most reputable dealers would be able to obtain one for you.

re the setting height of the 260 WTE arm. Its a strange one that, but here seems to be no specified height. Although the carb is Walbro, it is unique to Stihl, so thats possibly why Walbro do not publish specs. The Stihl service manuals tell you exactly how to fit the metering arm, but never mention the setting height. Unless i am missing something…..

Hahaha, I should have one of those, but never bothered. Just use a selection of punches, awls and levers. Any method is OK as long as you do not damage either the crank surface or the much softer seal seat. As said before, there are loads of special tools, but TBH very few are really needed as long as you are prepared to take just a little longer and a bit more care.

I am a little surprised that the same result cannot be achieved by raising the metering arm just a little, but still don,t quite see how it helps. After all, the fuel required to overcome the flat spot is already sitting in the metering chamber, The normal problem is that insufficient fuel can get past the L screw, hence screwing it out a little to let more through. I am struggling to understand how, having more available in the chamber, helps it through the L jet. I will get there though.

What oil are you using?