GardenKit

I use a James Sonic 6D. Being a 6 litre one, it is large enough for the larger ride-on carbs, but not too large for saw carbs. Beware of buying one too large, as the cost of cleaning agent will be higher and heating large volume for a small carb is wasteful not only on power, but also on time. I am using a from a can of detergent I bought many years ago, but its all labelled in some foreign lingo, so i cannot say what it is. My next can will come from the people who supplied the bath, as they seem to know the best to use.

Thats pretty well spot on. You cannot fault a Kawasaki motor, and, should anyone buy a JD C52KS, then they will get not only a Kwaker, but a pressure lube engine with an oil filter too. So that will offer the protection on slopes normally only achieved by 2 strokes. I see all of these engines every day, and the Kawasaki is by far my favourite.

Sort of right, and sort of wrong. Most of the sub £800 mowers with Honda engines are fitted with the GCV engine, and to be honest, this engine is not as good as a good old B&S quantum engine or its newer designations. I would choose a B&S unit over a GCV anyday. The Honda GX engine is the one that Honda made its name with for mower engines and is pretty well faultless. But due to its cost it is only found on premium mowers, usually those well over £800.

Which is exactly why I used those words. Many posts made on this sort of thread say " this is the best" or "that is the best" without taking into consideration the relative quality and cost. In my opinion, it is difficult to spend £700 more wisely than spending it on a JD JS63V for the type of work mentioned. I have sold many of these, over the last 12years, for use in arduous conditions and all the purchasers are very pleased. But if you were to ask me what is the best machine for this work, then I would say " the JD C52KS " but then add that it is around £1300. These suggestions are made as alternative mowers to the Victa. The heavy duty, out front, mowers such as the Ariens in the vid, or the DR version are excellent, but in a different league altogether. That said, it could be that they are more suited to the demands of the OP.

Nothing wrong with a Briggs engine.

Haha, at least you would not have any problems with the transmission:biggrin:

Maybe you should then, better safe than sorry. Get some of the crew to pop over with the spine board.

The John Deere JS63v may suit you. You will not buy better for the money.

Definately for an HC2300 Mike, and up to date.

works for me too, just looks a little different.

Incredible!!!

In my experiece both Toro and Ariens are not all they are cracked up to be. Both suffer from poor transmissions. Kaaz is far better.

Its good to know that there are still manufacturers about with excellent after sales service. I have sold these quality japanese machines for best part of 25 years and had very, very few problems and so was surprised when, in Novemeber, we were instructed to remove one particular model from our shelves. Apparently there had been a few instance worldwide of users burning their arm on the exhaust guard. Because of this, a new exhaust and guard were quickly developed and shipped to dealers worldwide. We have recalled every machine for fitment of the new parts. The pics show the old guard in place, then the old bits alongside the new parts, and the inside of the old guard with a bit of heat damage. (one I have just reworked) What an incredible company to deal with.

Same thoughts here Mike, I always struggle to find anything to fit, so end up with genuine.

Does this help, Mike? 5 ec13001042032 gasket - intake 6 ec90050000005 nut 7 ec13001742031 insulator - intake 8 ec90023805020 screw 9 ec13001642031 gasket - intake 10 ec12520005961 ec12520005961 10 ec12520005962 ec12520005962 10 ec12520005963 ec12520005963 10 ec12520005964 carburetor 10 ec12520006961 ec12520006961 10 ec12520006962 ec12520006962 15 ec13030705360 ec13030705360 15 ec13030706960 case 15 ec13030709660 ec13030709660 15 ec13030709661 ec13030709661 15 ec13030709662 case - air cleaner 15 ec13030755930 ec13030755930 16 ec12901105060 plate 16 ec12901106360 ec12901106360 16 ec13042209660 plate - prevent 17 ec90024205057 screw 17 ec90024205064 screw 17 ec90024205065 screw 18 ec13031004560 filter - air 18 ec13031006560 filter - air 18 ec13031051830 filter - air 19 ec13031305862 ec13031305862 19 ec13031305863 lid - air cleaner 19 ec13031309561 lid - cleaner 19 ec13031344331 cover - air cleaner 20 ec21041709560 bold - wing 20 ec21041752730 bolt - wing 20 ec90052800005 nut 21 ec89012105360 label - metering 21 ec89012109560 label - choke 22 ec61044428230 spacer 23 ec12901109560 plate 29 ec14563142030 ec14563142030 29 ec14587144331 ec14587144331 29 eca320000250 eca320000250 29 eca320000251 muffler cover 30 ec14580205960 muffler assembly 31 ec14551042031 ec14551042031 31 ecv104000160 exhaust gasket 32 ec14586642031 gasket - muffler lid 33 ec14587642030 lid - muffler 34 ec14586306960 fixture - screen 35 ec90024204010 screw 36 ec90010505055 bolt 37 ec90060000005 washe

I always keep a few around too:biggrin:

Which kit do you want to keep in stock Rich, bearing in mind there are so many? Dan,s was a D10-WAT (long central protusion), but you confused me a bit when you said about the carb designation not being on the W gauge as that hints at WTE which should have the flat protusion K10-WTE kit.

Calm down boys, once you have seen one, you have seen them all.

Glad its sorted Rich. There are often more diaphragms in a kit than are needed, as they cover different applications. The 'flaps' are actually the inlet and outlet valves of the fuel pump.

like this? GWT415 Heavy Duty 4 Wheel Timber Trailer | SCH Supplies

Down boy!

Let me know the carb number, and the number of the kit you used Rich and I will check it out. Some 260's have the standard type WT carb which uses the deep nipple diaphragm, others have the WTE carb which uses the shallow nipple.

Oops!

Hahaha, thought you might remember!

Just making sure you are paying attention:biggrin: