GardenKit

I can't open the pics on your link. But you will find the clutch drum and bearing in the cone shaped bit that joins the shaft to the engine. If you take the drive tube off first, then the cone shaped bit, you will find the clutch drum inside. If its firm and spinning freely all is well. If its flopping around or very noisy when it spins, it needs replacing.

yes, thats the liner, but my money is on the clutch drum bearing.

Thats not good to hear Richard. We hope it all goes well for you and are keeping our fingers crossed for you. Best wishes bud, keep us informed of your progress, I am sure the Arbtalk family is behind you all the way.

I would firstly check with a brushcutter gearbox and blade on, if the vibe is still there then its in the shaft or clutch. Check that the drive tube is perfectly straight. The shaft bearings take the form of a full length extruded liner, its not likely to be worn, but if it is it would allow the shaft to whip and set up a vibration. If thats ok then check the clutch drum and bearing. If the clutch bearing has siezed it will have melted its housing and will vibrate like mad. If its not any of this then chuck it over the hedge and buy a Tanaka:biggrin:

If the pain is from the joints rather than muscles, then taking the supplement 'glucosamin with chondroitin' really does help. Available off the shelf in chemists, supermarkets and health food stores. If I forget to take it, I quickly remember why I use it!

Try this Morten simply rotate flywheel till the North and South poles of the magnet align with the ignition module legs. Slacken the two T27 retaining screws and ease the module away from the flywheel. Insert a 0.2mm shim (I use a business card) between the module and the flywheel then let the magnet pull the module down. Tighten the screws,remove the card and check the gaps with a feeler guage.

TBH, if you have a workable 'flat spot' then your tuning is not far out. Its just very slightly weak. The merest tweak out on the L screw will probably do the trick. Turning it in will get it to the point where it just will not pick up.

Brilliant. Well done Steve, and all the members.

I'll pass on that Jon, I like it too much down here now! Can't go too far from the sea!

you bet!

You need a standard 50 link 91VXL chain from any Oregon dealer.

Think he's in Poole, learning navigation.

i reckon its most likely that the clutch drum has become separated from the gearbox input shaft, rather than the engine shaft snapped. If the engine shaft had snapped there would probably be no noise at all from the clutch, but with the clutch drum still rotating with the shoes there would be quite a rattle. Its easy enough to split the gearbox from the engine to check.

90 day commercial warranty is fairly standard across the industry, even on kit more expensive than the Mitox. In fact, up until this year there was no warranty at all on Mitox for commercial use, as it is only intended for the domestic market. But it is pretty good stuff, and is capable of more than it was designed for. If you want a longer commercial warranty, buy commercial kit at commercial prices.

The CS56 is supplied with a 20" bar, Oregon number 208PXBK095

Be the first in the water, swim to the liferaft and be the first there. Stay outside and help everyone else in, then get in last. That way you will be by the entrance flap and can stick your head out for fresh air on the pretext of being lookout. Otherwise it gets pretty hot and smelly in there quite quickly. If one pukes, then most will follow. I was lucky, I managed not too, but it was close! Have a great time.

I guess you ar looking at the 6224 saw which, unlike the rest of the Mitox range, is only supplied with a Mitox bar. There is no Oregon replacement for this saw. Hope this helps.

Ha, I thought it would be a bent crank. Now we know what sort of decompresor its got too!

Sorry, my bad.

Sorry, I may have understood too. Maybe weight is the factor.

The OP asks for advice on 40cc saws and gets recommended 2 different 35cc saws and a 27cc saw.

TBH Mike, I have never been inside an SV150 to see the decomp, and there are no IPL,s for the engine internals, or any info on engine internals in the w/s manual. The engines are so cheap that they are just replaced if they fail under warranty, and if outside warranty its cheaper to dump the mower and buy new. But, back to yours. If the tightness still exists with the plug out then its not compression related. Its going to be mechanical. So off with the recoil cover, (as has been said already) and check the proximity of the ign module to the flywheel. Also check the brake arm functionality. If its all OK up top then it just could be damaged valve gear. If so you are not going to repair it, but you could quickly take off the head and observe the valves. You might find excessive carbon build up between the piston and the head, which could be the problem, if so you could scrape it off and stick the head back on (if the gasket is OK) and try it. But I sort of think that you may have a bent crank, bent just inside the engine bottom plate. Once again, you wont be repairing that, but you could take off the sump plate to check. Have fun and let us know the outcome.

Or Rochfords at Wincanton. Mention me if you go there, or Pm me and I will speak to them.

This sounds like compression, it could be that the decompressor is not working. Is it OK with the plug out?

I use a James Sonic 6D. Being a 6 litre one, it is large enough for the larger ride-on carbs, but not too large for saw carbs. Beware of buying one too large, as the cost of cleaning agent will be higher and heating large volume for a small carb is wasteful not only on power, but also on time. I am using a from a can of detergent I bought many years ago, but its all labelled in some foreign lingo, so i cannot say what it is. My next can will come from the people who supplied the bath, as they seem to know the best to use.